How to protect car from rail dust?

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dpok69

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Hello everyone,

This is my first post here. I have been perusing these forums for quite some time. I have a major problem with protecting my car's paint. The situation is I have to park under/adjacent to elevated railroad tracks for my job here in NYC. This car is being bombarded with steel dust, which when contacting morning dew or light rain sticks to the cars paint.

I detailed after the winter and removed the steel dust that was over a previously coat of collinite 845 put on the fall. In the 1st week of April I used Iron-x, clay, klasse AIO, followed by collinite 845. After about two weeks I have fresh steel dust sticking to my car again after a light rain. I can dislodge it with my fingernails. I try to hand wash my car once a week with CG wash and wax and dry with Utima waterless wash solution as a detail spray, when weather permits.

My question is, will opti-coat 2.0 or opti-coat pro be a better for the conditions I am facing on my daily driver that is parked outside every day. If I did not have hard water, I would be flood rinsing the car everyday before leaving work. I even contemplated buying some distilled water to pour on the car but it seems like that would be costly.

What do you guys think?
 
Maybe use a fine grade Nanoskin wash mitt when you do your weekly wash?
 
Gotta agree with setec. I was displaced from covered parking at work a few years ago and invested in a car cover. Other than the occasional fine scratches (i removed myself) of putting it on and taking it off daily and the PITA of removing it after work when it rained, best thing i did for my paint.

That stuff is probably raining down on your paint still very hot and i would imagine would singe its way through even the most durable of coatings.

Other than that, nanoskin and a 55 gallon drum of Iron X.
 
Coatings are said to provide the "hardest" surface of the paint sealing products, moreso than Waxes and Sealants.

An example from Avi@CarPro:

Re: Iron X/Rail Dust Amazing - Now how to protect?

"Any wax or sealant wont help against iron dust, it will penetrate in time these,
the only coats which can delay and prospond iron itching are glass coats , Cquartz CQUK and a kind like products".
_______________________________________________


Yet...It's still advised to clay, possibly polish, and re-apply the Coating, where necessary, on a regularly scheduled basis.
This infers, to me, that Coatings are not impervious to each and every contaminate thrown its way.

Also:
Most Costings are at their "hardest" when they have fully cured.
To fully cure may take up to 30 days.
Could you allow for that fully cured time to elapse...unimpeded?


Bob
 
Another thought...if you're working in NYC, can't you take public transportation into the city? When I was working in a city, that's what I did. Driving was a pain, and I had my car broken into three times. Riding public transportation can be a bit of a hassle, but you get used to it; For me, after awhile it became rather relaxing.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I did think about a car cover, but the hassle of taking it on off and the micro scratches it can cause is deterring me. In the end though, it does seem like it is going to be the best solution.

Commuting to the city using public transportation would cost me to much time so that is out of the picture.

Using the nanoskin seems interesting, will using it weekly lightly remove the wax coating?

If I have the car opti-coated I can possibly have it cure at home outside for thirty days by borrowing a car. What I am having difficulty finding out is how well will it hold up against the steel dust? Or is cquartz better?
 
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