How to remove paint.

Rebelranger

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How to remove rubbed on paint

Teaching my son to drive tonight and as he turned into the car port he rubbed the front bumper against a wooden pole. No real damage except paint about the size of two fist is now on the bumper. What is the best way to remove this?
I tried wiping it off with goo gone, soap and water--no dice. Still there. I'm about to polish the car on Saturday and want to get this off prior...
 
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Teaching my son to drive tonight and as he turned into the car port he rubbed the front bumper against a wooden pole. No real damage except paint about the size of two fist is now on the bumper. What is the best way to remove this?
I tried wiping it off with goo gone, soap and water--no dice. Still there. I'm about to polish the car on Saturday and want to get this off prior...

You can try clay but that may not work either, maybe some really aggressive clay like Clay Magic Red may work. If that doesn't work, try compounding it off with a rotary. If that doesn't work, try wet sanding it off.
 
Hope the car wasnt that lambo in your avatar! :buffing:
Nah, If I had one and that happened, you would have seen it on the news. Dad goes berserk after son scraps car! That Lambo is my next year buy.
This happened in my Tahoe..... He had just mastered the Maxima so I though it was time to move up!
Was thinking there may be a solvent or something that would be safe............
 
Any other ideas....? Alcohol wipe down?
Would you believe he smacked it again tonight?
 
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Turpentine or Methylated Spirits.

I used one of them when some house paint rubbed off on my front bumper (noticed it one day when I was cleaning my car). Took it right off, just poured some onto a cloth and wiped it off.

I can't remember which one I used, but one of them didn't work so I tried the other one, which did.
 
Here's one way that works, it's kind of working backwards and then working forwards.

The problem you have is called Paint-Transfer. I put a hyphen in there so in the future I can find this by using the search term

Paint-Transfer

If I just type paint transfer and then search for paint transfer I'll pull up a kazillion threads with the word paint and transfer. Just a side note. :D


Goo Gone and Turpentine and all kinds of chemicals and solvents work sometimes but usually the problem you're trying to over come is that the paint off the other object is hyper-forced onto your cars paint under extreme pressure and sometimes wiping it with 'something' just doesn't work.

When that happens, here's another option.


You need to get something gritty. You're going to use the physical grittiness or grit particle to grind and abrade the offending paint off the good paint. You have to be careful and try to only work on the surface of the offending paint. This means focusing on the task at hand, this means paying attention as you move a piece of terry cloth with your fingers as you work the abrasive product to abrade off the offending paint.

A by-product of this process is you'll tend to leave scratches or hazing in the good paint. That's the price you have to pay to remove the offending paint-transfer.

The GOOD NEWS is you can usually easily remove these scratches by re-polishing with a less aggressive product.

I've done this procedure hundreds of times in my life and it works really well. I actually did this for someone at work recently as the same thing happened to a lower quarter panel. I knew I should have taken before, during and after pictures because it was really bad and it came out really good but alas I didn't.

Note you really want to do this by hand, not with a machine. You need to exert a lot of pressure to a small area and foam pads and wool pads are just too big for this and too dangerous for this, so use your fingers.

Next you want a piece of terry cloth for use as your application material. The nap of the terry cloth will give the abrasive product more bite and the nap will act as a gentle form of abrasive in an of itself.

Here are three products that are gritty that you can use to abrade off paint-transfer.

XMT Heavy Duty Swirl Remover #4 Polishing Compound

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #4 Heavy-Cut Cleaner

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #49 Oxidation Remover Heavy Duty Cleaner


The XMT uses a sharp, mechanical abrasive and works very fast. The two Meguiar's products use Macro-Diminishing Abrasives and won't work as fast but the abrading power is more gentle because the abrasives will crumble as you work them.

Just to note, I used to avoid products like the XMT #4 because of how aggressive the are but as long as you're careful with it and as long as you understand anytime you use it you're going to have to do a second step to remove it's abrading marks then it's a great tool to have i your arsenal of detailing products.


If you can find an OLD can of DuPont Rubbing Compound or Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound, the old stuff is very gritty and abrasive and will work also. When I say old, we're talking Pre-1980's back when a compound was a compound.

Hope this helps, if you have not had success yet and the paint-transfer is still on your car's paint then document the process with pictures.


:)
 
a little bit of Megs UC should take it off, than polish and wax

Sometimes Meguiar's Ultimate Compound will work as will any modern compound but most product like this don't have large abrasive particles they have microscopic abrasive particles and while they can work, what works better is something with some bulk to it, something chunky enough you can feel it between your fingers.

Next time you have UC or a modern compound around and something like the products I listed or an old fashioned rubbing compound, feel the different products between your fingers and you'll see what I mean. (Not just you Robert but anyone reading this thread)


:D
 
Here's one way that works, it's kind of working backwards and then working forwards.

The problem you have is called Paint-Transfer. I put a hyphen in there so in the future I can find this by using the search term

Paint-Transfer

If I just type paint transfer and then search for paint transfer I'll pull up a kazillion threads with the word paint and transfer. Just a side note. :D


Goo Gone and Turpentine and all kinds of chemicals and solvents work sometimes but usually the problem you're trying to over come is that the paint off the other object is hyper-forced onto your cars paint under extreme pressure and sometimes wiping it with 'something' just doesn't work.

When that happens, here's another option.


You need to get something gritty. You're going to use the physical grittiness or grit particle to grind and abrade the offending paint off the good paint. You have to be careful and try to only work on the surface of the offending paint. This means focusing on the task at hand, this means paying attention as you move a piece of terry cloth with your fingers as you work the abrasive product to abrade off the offending paint.

A by-product of this process is you'll tend to leave scratches or hazing in the good paint. That's the price you have to pay to remove the offending paint-transfer.

The GOOD NEWS is you can usually easily remove these scratches by re-polishing with a less aggressive product.

I've done this procedure hundreds of times in my life and it works really well. I actually did this for someone at work recently as the same thing happened to a lower quarter panel. I knew I should have taken before, during and after pictures because it was really bad and it came out really good but alas I didn't.

Note you really want to do this by hand, not with a machine. You need to exert a lot of pressure to a small area and foam pads and wool pads are just too big for this and too dangerous for this, so use your fingers.

Next you want a piece of terry cloth for use as your application material. The nap of the terry cloth will give the abrasive product more bite and the nap will act as a gentle form of abrasive in an of itself.

Here are three products that are gritty that you can use to abrade off paint-transfer.

XMT Heavy Duty Swirl Remover #4 Polishing Compound

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #4 Heavy-Cut Cleaner

Meguiars Mirror Glaze #49 Oxidation Remover Heavy Duty Cleaner


The XMT uses a sharp, mechanical abrasive and works very fast. The two Meguiar's products use Macro-Diminishing Abrasives and won't work as fast but the abrading power is more gentle because the abrasives will crumble as you work them.

Just to note, I used to avoid products like the XMT #4 because of how aggressive the are but as long as you're careful with it and as long as you understand anytime you use it you're going to have to do a second step to remove it's abrading marks then it's a great tool to have i your arsenal of detailing products.


If you can find an OLD can of DuPont Rubbing Compound or Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound, the old stuff is very gritty and abrasive and will work also. When I say old, we're talking Pre-1980's back when a compound was a compound.

Hope this helps, if you have not had success yet and the paint-transfer is still on your car's paint then document the process with pictures.


:)

Thanks! I'll try this today (I have some old rubbing compound-if not I'll get the XMT and check in later) and take pictures!

Should I rule out solvents like turpentine?

Funny thing is if I rub my bare fingers on the area some of the paint just chips and falls off. However there are a few spots where it will not come off so easy.
Thanks again!
 
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Strange turn of events. I went out to buy some Spray 9 from my local hardware store and I was looking for goo gone while and I was standing there a guy asked the paint area supervisor about products to safely remove paint from cars....I listened intently as he explained that his wife rubbed against the post fence when coming in the driveway. The guy recommended Motsenbocker's Lift Off 413-01 Latex Paint Remover #5. (Sorry to mention a product that you don't sell but it seems to be a local paint shop and hardware store item.)
So, I asked him if it would work in my situation. We walked out and looked at my car and said "that's easy of course it will clean it right off and wont damage the paint underneath." So I read the label about 15 times looking for something to confirm that I should not try it. But everything pointed to it being OK to use.
So I bought it and when I got home got out my terry cloth, sprayed it on and BAM its gone all of it. Tiny scratch our too but its completely gone. I washed and rewashed to make sure there was no residue. So far so good. So now I can proceed to machine this vehicle and I'm going to cover the post with something to prevent this from happening again. Thanks everyone for the input!:xyxthumbs:


 
The guy recommended Motsenbocker's Lift Off 413-01 Latex Paint Remover #5.

Glad it worked out for you. I didn't think a product like that would work very well because usually the transferred paint is really pressed onto the car's paint so strongly but hey, spray on, wipe off is much better than abrade off.

For what it's worth, I actually have recommended that for similar threads but I've never tried it myself.

If you click on this Search link and type in

Motsenbocker's


You'll pull up 6 threads, (at this time), and see how this product was recommended for other problems having to do with paint.

Like this thread,

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...977-overspray-removal-rubber-window-trim.html



Motsenbocker's LIFT OFF 4

MOTSENBOCKER'S LIFT OFF 4



It's states it's primarily for Rattle Can Spray Paint. It was less than $8.00 so it wouldn't be to expensive to test out. Next to it were some other products for the same purpose but the Lowe's salesperson said they've tried them all for use in the Lowe's store and the Motsenbockers worked the best.

Here's what the website states about the product,

#4 Graffiti Remover

Mötsenböcker’s Lift Off® #4 Spray Paint Graffiti Remover is the only water–based, biodegradable and Green Cross Certified, by Scientific Certification Systems, graffiti remover in the world! It effectively removes all types of oil based paints, varnishes, lacquers and spray paints from all types of surfaces including: stucco, concrete, cars & trucks, brick, metal, plastic and more!
Features and Benefits

Spray Paint Graffiti Remover
Green Cross Certified
Low–VOC
Water–Based
Biodegradable
Safe for the Environment & User
Works On:

Oil–Based Paints • Varnishes • Lacquers • Spray Paints • Old & Fresh Paint • Acrylics • Primers • Enamels • Sealers • Aerosol Paint • Acrylic Enamels • Semi–Gloss • High–Gloss & More!
Safe On:

Hard, Soft, Porous Surfaces including: Stucco • Concrete • Cars & Trucks • Brick • Metal • Plastic • Street Signs • Utility Boxes • Tile • Vinyl • Plexiglas® • Aluminum • Stainless Steel • Fiberglass • Split Rock • Formica® • Slumpstone & More!


:xyxthumbs:
 
Yes Mike this is a little known gem. My neighbor and I were talking yesterday as he has some similar paint issues over time. So just a few minutes ago I showed him (bragging) my former scrapped area now that its all gone and he tried it on his car with the same results all gone!
Very good stuff to have on hand!
 
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