How To RESTORE your Headlights the PROPER way!

[Canadian Rider]

I have seen a lot of different ways people are trying to restore their headlights, and they either are gimmicks, wont last long (Like toothpaste) or are just plain WRONG. So i wanted to make this video to show you the PROPER way to restore your headlights using wet sanding techniques and machine polishing to make your headlights look brand new once again, and to keep them looking brand new!

 

[FUNX650]

Thanks for providing your version of the
proper way on how to restore “headlights”.

However...IMO:
The author of the below article provides
the definitive version of an even more
proper way towards “headlight” restoration!

Understanding headlamp repair


Bob

 

[Canadian Rider]

Thanks for providing your version of the
proper way on how to restore “headlights”.

However...IMO:
The author of the below article provides
the definitive version of an even more
proper way towards “headlight” restoration!

Understanding headlamp repair


Bob

That was a great read as well. I highly suggest anyone looking to go "all the way" to leverage this guide. I would say everything is mostly the same, except the end where he replaces the factory UV coating, where instead I used a sealant to do this job more temporarily.

 

[rlmccarty2000]

The guide from Barry is now over 7 years old. There are several headlight coatings on the market now. Does anyone have any information on the longetivity of any of the coatings being sold here? I’ve been using Meguires Headlight Coating and it is supposed to last a year. How long does Opti-lens last? Or McKees? Is there something in a spray can that lasts longer that anyone knows about?

I always use 3000 after 1500 if anyone cares. 3M sells two kits on AG that include 3000 and I would hope 3M has put some time and research into their products.

 

[Mad Wax]

Opti lens lasts roughly 6 to 8 months out here in the AZ desert. Starts to yellow. Curious about the new McKees stuff.

 

[SWETM]

If you looked at the thread Bob was linking to. The biggest difference is when not going to the lower grit sandpaper. Is that you don't get the old UV coating of completly. This could get you some the headlights oxidized way sooner than needed. And it's also a case by case and hard to say when you need to get the old UV coating completly off. On the video it can work with this state of degraded UV coating. But when a UV coating is degrading for long enough time it gets cracks that is often down to the polycarbonate. And if only getting the surface looking good you will be soon see the yellowing oxidizing UV coating to show again. Then when it comes to protection of the headlight. With the proper prep work where you completly sanding off the old UV coating. The longest longevity you get from spraying a new layer of UV coating on them. You can also be waxing or sealing or ceramic coating them to work great. But needs to be reapplyied in time it don't fails and starting to oxidize again. If useing a UV coating you are not polishing the headlight to perfection with a finishing polish. But apply the UV coating on a surface that is wet sanded around a p1500 grit sandpaper. This is so the UV coating has something to adhere to and not just run on you. Which gets you the orange peel effect or and runs from the coating.

/Tony

 

[UncleDavy]

I realize that there are different levels of oxidation, but is the wet sanding process always necessary? My brother-in-law visited a few weeks ago with his 2006 Saturn soccer mom mini van and he was complaining about his cloudy headlights. He was going to buy new aftermarket headlights and replace them but I told him to let me work on them. I purchased the McKee's 37 Total Headlight Restoration Kit, how to restore headlights here on Autogeek and his van was a perfect test case. I used their wool pad and polish on my DeWalt power drill and the headlights cleared up in less than a minute.
Would it be better to try a least aggressive approach first like we do on our car's paint?

 

[spazzz]

I realize that there are different levels of oxidation, but is the wet sanding process always necessary? My brother-in-law visited a few weeks ago with his 2006 Saturn soccer mom mini van and he was complaining about his cloudy headlights. He was going to buy new aftermarket headlights and replace them but I told him to let me work on them. I purchased the McKee's 37 Total Headlight Restoration Kit, how to restore headlights here on Autogeek and his van was a perfect test case. I used their wool pad and polish on my DeWalt power drill and the headlights cleared up in less than a minute.
Would it be better to try a least aggressive approach first like we do on our car's paint?

Absolutely.

I hit them with M100 and a black wool on Flex just to see where I am at.
If I don't have to sand I am happy.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Opti lens lasts roughly 6 to 8 months out here in the AZ desert. Starts to yellow. Curious about the new McKees stuff.

I'd say about the same here in the northeast, for a car that's outside all the time. I don't think it's the Opti-Lens that's yellowing, it's the lens itself (for a lens that's had the factory coating sanded off). If it's your own car I'm not even sure a coating is worth it, they clean up pretty easily every 6 months or so with a fine polish, and then I throw a little sealant on them. These days I'd be more inclined to coat a headlight that still has the factory coating, to try and preserve it.

 

[SWETM]

I realize that there are different levels of oxidation, but is the wet sanding process always necessary? My brother-in-law visited a few weeks ago with his 2006 Saturn soccer mom mini van and he was complaining about his cloudy headlights. He was going to buy new aftermarket headlights and replace them but I told him to let me work on them. I purchased the McKee's 37 Total Headlight Restoration Kit, how to restore headlights here on Autogeek and his van was a perfect test case. I used their wool pad and polish on my DeWalt power drill and the headlights cleared up in less than a minute.
Would it be better to try a least aggressive approach first like we do on our car's paint?

I would compare it to single stage paint with the oxidation part. It's hard to determind after a polishing step if there are any oxidized UV coating left. And the most effective way is to test out and see how fast it's starts oxidize again or if it holds up. If the oxidized UV coating is left it's gets through from under the protection you applied. You can look at the surface of the headlight and see how smooth it is or not. Often on older ones you have all kind of impact damage on them. And in that case if you want longevity from your work. I would sand down the UV coating completly. You often see when the residue is turning more white from dry sanding. That's the tell that you are through. Don't know if the UV coating is very hard or there is a thick layer of it. But it's often takes quite a lot of dry sanding to get through the UV coating. The best way to get them to not oxidizing again is to not let your protection fail. So the UV protection in it is high all the time. Then it's what expectations you have from your work. If doing on a car that you easly can maintain and recoat the protection. You maybe are not so unsatisfied with a shorter longevity. But doing it for money and you get your customer back after less than 6 months and it has to be redone. That is not so good. With a new UV paint you don't have them back for a couple of years at least. If the prep work is done thoroughly.

 

[LSNAutoDetailingLSNAutoDetailing is verified member.]

Just did mine yesterday. DLUX for LSP.

Before:

After:

Please excuse the typos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rsurfer]

How long does Opti-lens last? Or McKees? Is there something in a spray can that lasts longer that anyone knows about?

Clear coat comes in a spray can, but why would anyone want to spray and have to cover up everything in sight.

 

[Rsurfer]

Just did mine yesterday. DLUX for LSP.

Before:

After:

Please excuse the typos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice, I put 2 coats of Dlux and it's over a year with no yellowing/hazing. And it sits outside 24/7.

 

[Mike@ShineStruck]

I tier my HLR as every customer doesn't care to haver perfect, just clear.

My level one is Just a compound /wool, it acts as a test spot to help you decide what really needs done if customer opted for higher service

LC purple foam wool, blue foamed wool, or carpro cool wool will all work.
Scholles S0 compound and drill
Panel prep
Ceramic coating..

If above service results left blotchy/haze areas I'll proceed to 600 dry, 1500wet, compound, panel prep, then wipe on UV coating..

If above prcesst left crazing/crow feet (hazing with micro cracks) I'll start at 320, 500,800 (sometimes 1000)prep, then 2k clear..

Obviously all are at different price points and carry different length warranties.

 

[Stevedotmil]

I just did the headlights on my 1995 Accord wagon. My 16y/o son drives it so I couldn’t let him drive at night with hazy headlights. I used Dlux for the LSP as well.

 

[DBAILEY]

The SiO2 coatings don't last as long as applying a new UV coating like the factory coating. They smell like they are urethane based loaded and with UVA/UVB. There are wipe on ones too. You don't have to spray them on. I apply them after a compounding step that followed what ever sanding was needed. The hazing from compounding seems to be enough for the UV coating to adhere to. I do not use a fine polish to finish to a high gloss.

 

[Desertnate]

I’ve been using Meguires Headlight Coating and it is supposed to last a year. How long does Opti-lens last? Or McKees? Is there something in a spray can that lasts longer that anyone knows about?

On my daughter's Mazda, the Meguiars coating lasted about 4~5 months before the lenses started to yellow again. I've used the Wolfgang headlight kit and the sealant provided in that kit lasted 6~7 months.