How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint

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How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint



To test for a colored single stage paint, try to use a white polish and a white applicator or light colored applicator or cloth.

If you're testing white paint then try to use a polish with a color to it and a dark colored cloth. The reason for this is so you can confirm that you're removing white paint and not just seeing the color of the polish or the cloth.

If the cloth and polish are both white it will be hard to see paint pigment.

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Use an ample amount for plenty of lubrication as you're going to want to push firmly if no oxidation is present as was the case with the finish on the classic car.
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Confirmed, we're working on a single stage paint... also note the heavier accumulation were my fingers pressed down with the most pressure... this is because you can exert more pressure to the small area of your finger tips than you can with your entire hand, you can use this to work for you or cause problems depending upon what you're trying to do...

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:)
 
what about tinted clears?

was also reading about mixing clear with the single stage paint to make a hybrid of sorts...
 
what about tinted clears?

was also reading about mixing clear with the single stage paint to make a hybrid of sorts...


Just wrote an article about the different types of paint including some pictures of what to expect if you're buffing out a tinted clear...

Single Stage Paint - Tinted Clears - Basecoat/Clearcoat - Embedded Dirt


Excerpt...

Tinted Clear Coats
If you're working on a TINTED clear you'll pull a LITTLE color or pigment and see this on your buffing pad. For example, here's some pictures from the Red Jewel Tint 2011 Camaro we buffed out a few weeks ago that belongs to Rene.


2011 Camaro - Modeled by Amy


Robert does a Test Spot on the hood to dial-in the process the rest of us will duplicate over the rest of the car. For this he's using the Flex 3401 with a Cyan Hydro-Tech Cutting Pad and the Blackfire Scratch Resistant Compound. This combination of products on the 5.0 Speed Setting removed all but the deepest RIDS
2011RJTCamaro008.jpg



Here you can see the tint in the tinted clear coming off the car as we compound it and onto the face of the pad. This is nothing to worry about, keep in mind when you're doing any correction work on a clearcoat paint system you too are removing paint that is building up on the face of your buffing pad but because the paint is clear you won't see it build-up on the face of your pad.



2011RJTCamaro010.jpg


See this article,
Why it's important to clean your pads often...


Finished...
Polished correctly, tinted clears offer a candied look...
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:)
 
Paint will transfer, you just wont see it as it is clear.

That's exactly right.

And that's why it's important to clean your pads often no matter what type of paint your working on because you will have two things building up on the face of your pads that will interfere with the buffing process.

  • Spent product
  • Removed paint

See this article,

Why it's important to clean your pads often...



:D
 
well I've polished my car with power finish and an orange pad before and I don't get anywhere near the amount of black on my pads as that top red car so I'm going with tinted clear on my Lexus

Everyone this morning seems to think it's single stage but I don't think so...
 
Well, in trying to figure out if I have single stage paint or base/clear, I've got conflicting answers!

Some say single stage, some say base/clear, so I your technique to test the paint myself.
How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint

I reached to my shelf and found some compound I had laying around, and thought this should work.
DSC_0596.jpg


I put a bit on my rag, and starting rubbing it in with what a would consider moderate to heavy pressure.
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After working a small 1' x 1' section for about 1 minute, I flipped my rag over, and saw no black what so ever.
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So, I take it this means my car is base/clear after all...I still have a hard time accepting it, as most all information states the opposite. However, I know for a fact this is the original paint, and has never been repainted. I just don't want to mess anything up!

Whats your take on this? Anyway it could still be single stage despite my test?
 
Well this couldn't have come at a better time. I was discussing with someone tonight about weather my white paint on my Mini had clear or not. The paint under the hood isn't as shiny as the outside of the car and I figured it was because it wasn't cleared under the hood.

So if I used an orange pad and orange swirl/haze remover with a PC 7336 and got no white paint on my pad, I have clear?
 
How 'permanent' is the paint transfer 'staining' of the pads? (for those of us with a limited collection of pads atm)
 
How 'permanent' is the paint transfer 'staining' of the pads? (for those of us with a limited collection of pads atm)


From what I've seen in my life? Pretty much as long as you own the pad.

I've never let pigment staining keep me from using either a wool pad or a foam pad, just clean a best as you can and put them back to work. This is from a guy that has buffed out a LOT of single stage paints, even to this day, like this one...

Click the link and look at the pad...

1951 Mercury - Black Lacquer Paint - Extreme Makeover

1951_Mercury_Extreme_Detail_by_Mike_Phillips.017.jpg



:D
 
From what I've seen in my life? Pretty much as long as you own the pad.

I've never let pigment staining keep me from using either a wool pad or a foam pad, just clean a best as you can and put them back to work. This is from a guy that has buffed out a LOT of single stage paints, even to this day, like this one...

Click the link and look at the pad...

1951 Mercury - Black Lacquer Paint - Extreme Makeover

1951_Mercury_Extreme_Detail_by_Mike_Phillips.017.jpg



:D


Read that one - which is what prompted me to ask :)

So you've not noticed any decreased performance from a well cleaned albeit stained pad from SS?
 
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