How to use Poorboy's Blackhole corrrectly?

JJH

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The instructions are very vague and just describe applying it with a machine polisher and letting it dry to a haze and then buffing it off.

Is there anything more to it? As I understand, this is more of a filler than a correcter so using a polishing/finishing pad should be good, correct? I tried it out tonight on freshly clayed paint in a small section with my Griots polisher on speed 3 with light pressure and did 2-3 passes with a polishing pad. How do I know when it has dried to a haze? It looks "hazy" after being applied.

I'm following up with Poorboys Natty Blue paste wax. Would this be any different than applying a sealant. This is my first time using both of these products, and even using a paste wax at all.

Thank you.
 
Sorry for the late reply but you did the first parts of the job correct after you did two or three passes let it dry to the surface that means wait five to ten minutes then do a swipe test if the swipe is clean and not streaky then buff the product away with microfiber as for the wax you can take applicator pad and swipe the top of paste wax then apply to the car or if you want to use machine then take your finger and spread a little paste wax to a red or black pad then another two or three passes and swipe test ....good luck
 
Thank you for your help. So the Poorboys doesn't actually have any corrective properties at all than?
 
The instructions are very vague and just describe applying it with a machine polisher and letting it dry to a haze and then buffing it off.

Is there anything more to it? As I understand, this is more of a filler than a correcter so using a polishing/finishing pad should be good, correct? I tried it out tonight on freshly clayed paint in a small section with my Griots polisher on speed 3 with light pressure and did 2-3 passes with a polishing pad. How do I know when it has dried to a haze? It looks "hazy" after being applied.

I'm following up with Poorboys Natty Blue paste wax. Would this be any different than applying a sealant. This is my first time using both of these products, and even using a paste wax at all.

Thank you.

Sorry for the late reply but you did the first parts of the job correct after you did two or three passes let it dry to the surface that means wait five to ten minutes then do a swipe test if the swipe is clean and not streaky then buff the product away with microfiber as for the wax you can take applicator pad and swipe the top of paste wax then apply to the car or if you want to use machine then take your finger and spread a little paste wax to a red or black pad then another two or three passes and swipe test ....good luck

Black Hole tends to instantly flash and haze up after application, the swipe test mentioned is how you would tell if it is ready to buff :dblthumb2:

The instructions tell you how to apply by hand as well as machine



When applying the wax be sure to get it as thin as possible ... having a damp applicator will aid in this process. The wax will take longer to haze 15-30 mins depending upon conditions.
 
Pockets, I applied this and topped with Natty's Blue paste. I love the results. When I reapply can I put BH directly over the Natty's Blue and then re-wax or do I need to strip the Natty's off first? Much easier if you can apply it over Natty's and then add another coat of Natty's.

Ps Natty's is a great product for the price. Also has some hiding ability. Works great with Black Hole!
 
Thank you for your help. So the Poorboys doesn't actually have any corrective properties at all than?

No correction properties, just filling ... It will however clean the paint.

Pockets, I applied this and topped with Natty's Blue paste. I love the results. When I reapply can I put BH directly over the Natty's Blue and then re-wax or do I need to strip the Natty's off first? Much easier if you can apply it over Natty's and then add another coat of Natty's.

Ps Natty's is a great product for the price. Also has some hiding ability. Works great with Black Hole!

If you keep up on the protection over the Black Hole it should not wear off and all you will need to do is reapply the NB. If you let it go for too long then you will need to strip off the wax in order to apply the BH.

You can apply Black Hole over the wax for just deeper looks but it will not hide the swirls as it can't get to them because of the wax :props:

The Natty's Blue does have some hiding capabilities and that is why we recommend that with the Black Hole ... It does not hide by fillers, but rather the way it makes light refract.
 
Thank you for your help. So the Poorboys doesn't actually have any corrective properties at all than?

No its more of a filler type product meaning it will hide light swirls and inperfection to give that show car look
 
So it's safe to do the entire vehicle with PoorBoys blackhole and once finished begin wiping it off? We don't have to work in small 2'x2' areas?
 
So it's safe to do the entire vehicle with PoorBoys blackhole and once finished begin wiping it off? We don't have to work in small 2'x2' areas?

Pretty much safe to let any Poorboy's World Product sit on the paint for as long as you would like without the fear of not being able to remove it.

Heck on my old 1988 Bronco II we let a spot of Polish w/ Carnauba Blue sit on there for a few months and it wiped right off like butter!
 
That's awesome! Good to know and thank you very much for your help. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out on my 07 nighthawk black pearl Acura TL type-s.
 
I love Blackhole Glaze. I use it on my wife's black RDX. I thought it would mute the flake in the paint. But it must clean pretty well, because, it pops pretty nice. Added a sealant over it and it looks great. Does a nice job of filling swirls til I decide to do a correction again.
 
Is doing anything more than 2 passes really necessary at all since you're not correcting anything but just want to ensure even coverage?
 
I love Blackhole Glaze. I use it on my wife's black RDX. I thought it would mute the flake in the paint. But it must clean pretty well, because, it pops pretty nice. Added a sealant over it and it looks great. Does a nice job of filling swirls til I decide to do a correction again.

This brings up a question I have regarding it's cleaning abilities. I have a sample bottle waiting for Spring so it can be used on our crimson Toyota.

How much cleaning ability should I expect? I'm hoping when I do my spring detail I don't have to hit the entire vehicle with a mild polish or cleaner before laying down the Blackhole. The vehicle is an SUV, so the fewer steps I have to make the better!
 
Is doing anything more than 2 passes really necessary at all since you're not correcting anything but just want to ensure even coverage?

Nope should not need anymore than two passes. Just ensure that you have complete coverage of the area =)

This brings up a question I have regarding it's cleaning abilities. I have a sample bottle waiting for Spring so it can be used on our crimson Toyota.

How much cleaning ability should I expect? I'm hoping when I do my spring detail I don't have to hit the entire vehicle with a mild polish or cleaner before laying down the Blackhole. The vehicle is an SUV, so the fewer steps I have to make the better!

I can't say that I have ever used Black Hole in place of a polish for cleaning. If it needs it than you should polish the paint. If the paint just needs clay you can apply the BH after that.
 
I can't say that I have ever used Black Hole in place of a polish for cleaning. If it needs it than you should polish the paint. If the paint just needs clay you can apply the BH after that.

I don't think I communicated my question very well. I'm just looking for something that will clean out last year's LSP before laying down a new coat for summer. I'm sure some of the Klasse SG I put down this year will survive the winter abuse. I corrected this fall, and won't need to do that again for a while...knock on wood!

Will Blackhole at least clean the old LSP remnants away, or will I need to hit the car with something else first? Ideally, I'd like to wash, clay, put down the Blackhole, and then finish out with an LSP.
 
I have a Black Camry and I am considering Black Hole to enhance the glossiness of the car. I've taken care of it and there are not a lot of marks on the car a scratch on the rear fender and a little bit of road rash on the hood. My question is this would I be better off going with black hole or blackout?

I have meguires 26 and the dp poli seal as well so I am really looking to get that glass look.

Would Black Hole be the way to go?
Or would I be better off going with blackout?
Or would you recommend a different polish?

Ben
 
I don't think I communicated my question very well. I'm just looking for something that will clean out last year's LSP before laying down a new coat for summer. I'm sure some of the Klasse SG I put down this year will survive the winter abuse. I corrected this fall, and won't need to do that again for a while...knock on wood!

Will Blackhole at least clean the old LSP remnants away, or will I need to hit the car with something else first? Ideally, I'd like to wash, clay, put down the Blackhole, and then finish out with an LSP.

It probably won't be strong enough to do it on it's own with a soft pad.
 
Should black hole be applied befor or after a poli seal?
Or should the seal be skipped and finish with wax?
 
It probably won't be strong enough to do it on it's own with a soft pad.

I thought I had finally found a product that had no correction ability that I could use on my car to remove lsp (as I'd do it with my PC) before laying down my lsp.... Then I read this.

Just to confirm, with a white or black pad, it wouldn't remove a 2-3 month old/failing lsp?
 
I can't say that I have ever used Black Hole in place of a polish for cleaning.
I have used it many times for exactly this purpose. Used like a pad dependent polish it has performed very well for me in creating very glossy finishes without removing clear coat. Did this on dark colors and very stained clear over white paint as well. Test, test, test.

It probably won't be strong enough to do it on it's own with a soft pad.
If a polishing pad is used, and a few more passes, I'd think you could achieve the desired goal of removing a previously applied, failing coat of LSP. How would you really ever know for sure anyway? If it looks stellar...I say it's been worth the experiment.

I thought I had finally found a product that had no correction ability that I could use on my car to remove lsp (as I'd do it with my PC) before laying down my lsp.... Then I read this.

Just to confirm, with a white or black pad, it wouldn't remove a 2-3 month old/failing lsp?

See above. Test with a few different pads. Polishing, light cutting etc. and see how it turns out. You might be pleased with the results. I was many times.
 
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