How To Wash a Classic Muscle Car

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

How To Wash a Classic Muscle Car


Here's a tip for anyone that owns a classic muscle car for how to get your car clean without having to use a traditional car wash using a hose and bucket and that's by using a waterless wash.


Here's why...

Washing a classic muscle car, or any classic or antique car using a hose and bucket flushes the car with a lot of water. Here's the problem... the water gets everywhere and by this I mean into places you cannot reach to dry and this creates a potential rust issue.

As a professional courtesy and as a professional "Best Practice" I don't wash classic, antique or muscle cars and I don't even use rinseless washes on them, I use waterless washes.



Example: 1963 Plymouth Fury
Last night we had a classic muscle car that has been recently painted. The car has overspray paint all over the paint, glass, trim, bumpers and pretty much everything on the exterior. Before we clayed the car and used the Nanoskin Autoscrub pads to remove the overspray the first thing we did was use a waterless wash to remove all the loose surface dirt and we did this two ways.

The first way we used the waterless was was using the Mytee Big Boss Rechargeable Solution Sprayer. Now this isn't the type of tool the casual car owner buys to wash a couple of classic cars out in the garage. It is the type of tool a mobile detailer could use save their hands from getting carpel tunnel or repetitive motion injuries. It's a very cool tool that will lay down a waterless wash with the pull of a trigger.

Here's Andy using the Mytee Big Boss Rechargeable Solution Spray using Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash Concentrate mixed 1 to 3. The holding tank on the Big Boss holds 5 gallons so mixing this concentrate is a simple as adding one gallon of the concentrate to 3 gallons of water to create 4 gallons of ready to use waterless wash.

The Big Boss comes with both a short nozzle sprayer for wetting down car exteriors or a wand sprayer for extended reach. In this shot Andy is using the short nozzle sprayer.

After wetting the hood and front grill and bumper Andre moves in to spread the product around and wipe these areas clean.

Andy tackles the bumper and front grill...

Simple Method
The simple way to use a waterless wash is to simply use a spray bottle to wet the surface. Here's John using Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash to wipe the roof clean...

Helpful tip...
When using a waterless wash, have plenty of clean, dry microfiber towels on hand and switch to a clean, dry towel often to prevent cross-contamination while wiping the exterior body panels clean.


The above is how to take a professional approach to cleaning a classic, antique or muscle car without introducing a lot of water posing a potential risk for rust in places you cannot see or reach to dry.



On Autogeek.net


Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash Concentrate

Detailer's Waterless Wash

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

After we used a waterless wash to clean this classic muscle car we then put the paint through our show car polishing process. You can check out all the pictures by clicking the link below...


1963 Plymouth Fury Drag Race Car - Pictures & Video

 

[theclock12]

Hey Mike, in theory are you essentially just Quick Detailing the whole car? Are the waterless washes much different than a quality QD? Just thoughts in my head :xyxthumbs:

 

[sproketser]

Same thing i thought also , QT & you re done ! Unless it s something different .

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Great questions...

Waterless washes are more formulated for safely cleaning surfaces that are dirtier than what you would normally use a spray detailer or a quick detailer to clean.

You could use a spray detailer if you didn't have a waterless wash, the most important key factor is to match the amount of product you're using to the level of dirt on the surface. In other words, the dirtier the car, the more liberally you want to use the product.

Waterless washes are also focused primarily on safely removing dirt, road grime and other contaminsnts off paint. Spray detailers are primarily focused on removing,

• Light dust
• Fingerprints
• Smudges

And leaving behind a a "just detailer look".


See these two articles...

Tips & Techniques for using a Spray Detailer to Remove Light Dust, Fingerprints and Smudges

How dirty is too dirty to safely use a rinseless wash?

 

[DuRtYwUrKs]

Mike,

I'm getting ready to detail a black 66 Dodge Charger that my father and I just bought and I'm looking at using a waterless wash before I polish and wax. On previous details that I've done (non muscle cars) I did an initial wash with a little bit of Dawn or specific soap that would take off any wax or polish that is already on the car in order to give a clean surface to work with.

Will the Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash give me a clean surface to work with or should I not even worry about it?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Mike,

I'm getting ready to detail a black 66 Dodge Charger that my father and I just bought and I'm looking at using a waterless wash before I polish and wax. On previous details that I've done (non muscle cars) I did an initial wash with a little bit of Dawn or specific soap that would take off any wax or polish that is already on the car in order to give a clean surface to work with.

Will the Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash give me a clean surface to work with or should I not even worry about it?

Sorry I missed your first post to our forum... and...

Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:


To answer your question...

Will the Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash give me a clean surface to work with or should I not even worry about it?

The Detailer's Waterless Auto Wash will give you a clean surface to work with in that it will remove LOOSE dirt but it won't chemically strip off old wax and polish like a detergent dish soap.


What I shared in this thread is I don't introduce water to antique cars that belong to other people. I wouldn't do it to my own so I don't do it to others.

If not introducing water to all the cracks and crevices of your 1966 Dodge Charge is important to you then just use a waterless wash.

Claying and polishing will take care of removing any previously applied waxes or sealants, or even polishing residues.


Now how about some before and after pictures of your new-to-you 1966 Dodge Charger?

 

[garyg7133]

This thread could not be more timely for me Mike. I recently started detailing at a local auto museum and when I was speaking with one of the other detailers I asked about whether the cars arrived clean or were we handling them upon arrival for cleanup. While the museum has a great knowledge of the history of their vehicles, taking a hose to a 1913 Mack Truck or a 1954 BMW is not in the best interest of the vehicle owner, the museum or the detailer. He told me they often get the call when a new vehicle arrives and they rush down to take care of it before it goes on display. It may end up using a lot of product for a waterless procedure but to have water penetrate the cracks and crevices could be devastating to a historic vehicle. Thanks for this article.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks for this article.

Glad it helped...

I'll be sharing this tip on My Classic Car in the future, should help a lot of the loyal viewers of this show...

 

[jwgreen6]

How To Wash a Classic Muscle Car


The first way we used the waterless was was using the Mytee Big Boss Rechargeable Solution Sprayer. Now this isn't the type of tool the casual car owner buys to wash a couple of classic cars out in the garage. It is the type of tool a mobile detailer could use save their hands from getting carpel tunnel or repetitive motion injuries. It's a very cool tool that will lay down a waterless wash with the pull of a trigger.

I've been using a 2-gallon manual pump chemical sprayer like this one to apply ONR which works pretty good for me. I've also used 32 oz sprayers loaded with ONR that works for me, too.

I've been debating whether to get either the Mytee Big Boss or CG's "POW_100 – Eco Detailing Pod Waterless Cordless Detailing Machine". Both cost about the same and have similar features and do virtually the same job. Are they $475 better than the sprayer I'm using? Thanks.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Are they $475 better than the sprayer I'm using?

Thanks.

I don't know? That's for you to decide.



The Autogeek store tries to offer lots of options for EVERYONE.

If you don't want or need an electric, rechargabel sprayer like the Mytee Big Boss Rechargeable Solution Sprayer then that's what's best for you but we sell these and that means for some people this tool is what's best for them.

One thing I learned a long time ago was to never spend another guy's money. He can do that well enough on his own.


:dunno:

 

[Ford Fest]

I don't have a classic muscle car, but I do have a current muscle car that is more garage queen than anything. It is a black GT500 and I could use help with it. I have only hand applied Meguirs synthetic products. Although it is in the garage most of the time is still gathers dust quick. I currently use waterless wash, detail spray or even rinse less wash depending on the level of dust/dirt.

I'm ready to purchase a PC and need to stick to $350. I need just enough pads to do one car, but will need the proper pads to do my daily drivers as well. Based on the videos I've watched I will need orange, white and blue pads. I'm leaning towards Pinnacle or Wolfgang products. I just need direction on a kit or maybe alacart since I already have detail spray. I spoke with a great tech at AG and accidentally shredded my notes. I think he recommended the Pinnacle Show car kit, but would need a paint protectant to go with it.

I know it's not a classic, but it's my classic. I'd like to make the factory paint pop, but also need something to help against the dust issues.

Please help

 

[CowboyTruckn]

I see you are referring to classic muscle cars and using a waterless wash to keep it out of unintended areas... what is the difference between them and new cars today?

 

[Radarryan]

I see you are referring to classic muscle cars and using a waterless wash to keep it out of unintended areas... what is the difference between them and new cars today?

I don't want to speak for Mike but I believe I have read where he says that the main issue is introducing water into areas where it may rust, which is a bigger deal with older cars. Some newer cars use a lot of synthetic materials that don't rust, therefore doing a traditional bucket wash is not potentially harmful.

It's all about preserving classic cars the best way possible, and one of those ways is not introducing water in areas that cannot be dried (which is more prevalent on older cars and hot rods). If the water sits there over time, we know what that can do. It's all about taking Mike's motto of the least aggressive method or product for the job, and applying not only to polishing, but all aspects of car care - including washing.

Hope this helps. Happy detailing!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I see you are referring to classic muscle cars and using a waterless wash to keep it out of unintended areas... what is the difference between them and new cars today?

Good answer below by Ryan...

I don't want to speak for Mike but I believe I have read where he says that the main issue is introducing water into areas where it may rust, which is a bigger deal with older cars.

The above means more to anyone that has restored a classic car and had to replace rusted sheetmetal.

Pretty hard to find a rust-free classic. It's possible but you will usually pay more for anything that's 100% rust free. The major point being that after a person goes to all the work, time and expense to remove rust the goal is to then take the precautionary steps to not create the potential for it into the future.

Each us us can wash a car however we see fit. For me, as professional courtesy and best practice for the owner of classic cars, to NOT introduce water, at least LOTS of water to their car. That' just me though....

Some newer cars use a lot of synthetic materials that don't rust, therefore doing a traditional bucket wash is not potentially harmful.

While the above is true, most new cars are akin to Bic Lighters in that they are disposable. That is most people buy a new car and within 3-5 years they either sell it or trade it in.

I"m not sure we'll see the kind of restoration catalogs containing every known part to restore a Ford Focus, Honda Accord or Toyota Camry like you can easily find for classic Ford Mustang or classic Chevy trucks.


Point being, there isn't a demand to keep, restore and do anything with most modern cars while there is a HUGE market for classics and rust is an issue for old things made from steel.

Just watch any of the car guy TV shows, Overhaulin, Gas Monkey Garage etc, and when they go to de-construct a car one of the major issues is either removing rust or flat out replacing parts that are rusted too much to be saved.

It's all about preserving classic cars the best way possible, and one of those ways is not introducing water in areas that cannot be dried (which is more prevalent on older cars and hot rods). If the water sits there over time, we know what that can do. It's all about taking Mike's motto of the least aggressive method or product for the job, and applying not only to polishing, but all aspects of car care - including washing.

Hope this helps. Happy detailing!

Well said Ryan....

Big picture is this... having restored and hotrodded a few cars in my life I understand the rust issue very well and I choose to use waterless washes for classics, antiques, muscle cars and streetrods.

It just makes good sense. Plus, in most cases, cars like these are garage kept and they are not filthy dirty to start with.


We have a 1966 Nova Pro Touring to work on this week and the plan is to wash it using a waterless wash before doing any other steps.