How to wet sand paint flat by hand by Mike Phillips

Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Messages
51,004
Reaction score
6
Wetsanding Project - 1929 Ford Model A Sedan Delivery Streetrod



Date: Saturday, December 16th
Time: 9:00am till we're finished
Location: Autogeek's Show Car Garage

Requirements: Member of the AutogeekOnline.net discussion forum or member of Autogeek's Detailing 101 Facebook Group


Hands-on project covers,

  1. Hand sanding techniques
  2. Machine sanding techniques
  3. Rotary buffer techniques
  4. Orbital polisher techniques

1929 Ford model A Sedan Delivery

Custom features

Full TCI chassis and suspension.
Steel body, fiberglass fenders.
Chevy 4.3 V-6 engine
Automatic transmission
Headers
Lokar Shifter
Aluminum framed fold out windshield
LED taillights
Hagan saddle gas tanks
Full gauges
Vintage air conditioning
Great driver.


Here's the car as it looked this morning before it was dropped off for a custom paint job.


1929_Pan_Dev_001.jpg


1929_Pan_Dev_002.jpg


1929_Pan_Dev_003.jpg


1929_Pan_Dev_004.jpg


1929_Pan_Dev_005.jpg


1929_Pan_Dev_006.jpg





Out of the paint booth this Saturday!

This custom paint job should be completed by this Saturday, as soon as it's back home I'll have new pictures of the completed paint job and will add to this thread.




:)
 
Re: Wetsanding Project - 1929 Ford Model A Sedan Delivery Streetrod

***Update***


Here's a few BEFORE pictures of this cool streetrod....


1929_Pan_Dev_020.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_021.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_022.JPG



Later after Mike the owner finishes assembling the car inside and out, we'll have it back, park it in the same place and take the after pictures. Probably be sometime in January as he still needs to put the interior in.


The tip or lesson to everyone reading this... when working on epic projects....

Take great before pictures!


You can never go back in time and get the before shots after all the work is over. That is unless Sheldon Cooper, Leonard Hofstadter, Rajesh Koothrappali and Howard Wolowitz will let you borrow their time machine.

time-machine.jpg



Probably faster and easier just to take pictures...


:)
 
Re: Wetsanding Project - 1929 Ford Model A Sedan Delivery Streetrod

But that's not all!...


Moved the Model A into the garage and took a few pictures to show the orange peel. If you're new to wet sanding, that's okay - we were all new at one time. While most people gravitate towards swirl finder lights to look for swirls - for orange peel what works GREAT is normal florescent lights.


Here's a few pictures...


Orange Peel
I opened the garage bay door as it puts a strip of sunlight shining through the garage onto the large flat panel on the side and highlights the orange peel texture common to new/custom paint jobs.


1929_Pan_Dev_012.JPG




Here you can see the garage bay door open...

1929_Pan_Dev_013.JPG




Here you can see the orange peel...

1929_Pan_Dev_014.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_015.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_016.JPG



I adjusted a camera setting to darken the shot...

1929_Pan_Dev_017.JPG




Looks like the texture on the peel of an orange - See the yellow pole in the reflection?

1929_Pan_Dev_018.JPG



It's this pole - if we do the job right, when the Model A comes back we'll take after shots and we should see dramatically more clear and defined reflections.

1929_Pan_Dev_019.JPG



:)
 
Re: Wetsanding Project - 1929 Ford Model A Sedan Delivery Streetrod

Yet more....


There's a lot of thin panels and intricate areas on these old body designs so to work these small areas we're going to get small to quote Steve Martin...


1929_Pan_Dev_023.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_024.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_025.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_026.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_027.JPG


1929_Pan_Dev_028.JPG




Time to shut down the Show Car Garage!


I'll be here tomorrow morning around 8:00am

See everyone tomorrow...


:)
 
How to wet sand paint flat by hand by Mike Phillips



Why wetsand paint?

Great question. The answer is to create a more perfect reflection when you look at the finish on a car. Sanding removes orange peel and other surface texture and irregularities by leveling the surface until it's completely flat. After you have sanded the finish flat then your buff out your sanding marks usually with a compound, wool pad and rotary buffer. After that you polish using a foam pad to maximize gloss and shine. If you do everything right you will end up with a show car finish.

NOTE: Wet sanding by hand or by machine is really only safe for custom paint job, not factory clearcoats. The reason why is a custome paint job will have more paint compared to a factory finish. For more information see this article,



Hand sanding techniques

Below are the basics. If you really want to know how to wetsand, I recommend taking a class from an experienced instructor that covers this topic in their class.


Soak your papers at least 15 minutes before use.
The Nikken Finishing papers have a latex rubber impregnated paper backing that is waterproof and this prevents the finishing paper from breaking-down into pulp from over soaking. It's possible for grit particles to enter into your water source so if you can, use Grit Guards in the bottom of your bucket.


Try to place your papers in water and soak them at least 15 minutes before sanding.

WetSandingExperiment1003.jpg



There are two common ways to wrap your paper around a backing pad



1: Wrapping - this is where you wrap a half sheet around a backing pad.

WetSandingExperiment1025.jpg


WetSandingExperiment1026.jpg


WetSandingExperiment1027.jpg



One side is covered with a seamless portion of sandpaper. This of course is the side you sand with.

WetSandingExperiment1028.jpg





2: Folding - this is where you fold a single half-sheet of paper in half once and then fold this around your backing pad.

WetSandingExperiment1039.jpg


WetSandingExperiment1040.jpg


WetSandingExperiment1041.jpg


WetSandingExperiment1042.jpg



One side is completely covered, this if course is the side you sand with.

WetSandingExperiment1043.jpg




Half sheet folded around the backing pad.

WetSandingExperiment1044.jpg


WetSandingExperiment1045.jpg




What it looks like from a top view.

WetSandingExperiment1046.jpg




Clean water
Use water from a clean source to lubricate the surface while sanding. Add a little soap, (a few drops is all that's needed, don't go crazy with the soap), and as you sand, continually spray water to the section you're sanding as this will make each stroke easier. Seriously, spray water onto the surface after every other stroke or two you'll find the paper will cut a lot smoother.


Hold the backing pad canted, or at an angle, see how the tip of the paper-wrapped backing pad is leading as I move my hand forward. Don't hold the pad squared-up as you sand because you'll tend to cut deeper ruts if you sand with the pad in perfect perpendicular alignment in the direction of your strokes.


Right - Hold backing pad at a little bit of an angle while making front to back strokes.

WetSandingExperiment1030.jpg




Wrong - Don't sand with the backing pad in a perpendicular alignment with your front to back strokes, you risk gouging or putting in deeper scratches where the paper is cutting on the outside edges of the length of the backing pad.

WetSandingExperiment1038.jpg



1929 Model A Wetsanding Project at Autogeek

One of the things I like to do with my job here at Autogeek is invite our forum members and our facebook group members to Autogeek to be part of projects I put together. These are NOT classes in the sense of a formal class like I teach here three times a year or the Roadshow Classes I teach at off-site locations, but simply "projects". In the past these have been held on Thursday nights, like the TNOGs I started for Meguiar's back in 2006 that continue to this day. Nick and Joe over at McKee's 37 have been holding Thursday night classes since Bob McKee sold Autogeek but kept his own name brand of products so I've moved my Thursday night classes to Wednesday night so as not to create confusion.

For some project however, a weeknight isn't enough time to do the job properly - for these projects I schedule them for a Saturday. As is the case for this project. Trying to wetsand, cut and buff an entire car on a weeknight is ridiculous, so I scheduled it for a Saturday and we had a great turnout. Sad to say, half the guys that showed up left early, some said they had other obligations. My guess is they had know idea how much work this type of craft is nor did they understand how much time goes into a project like this. No worries - now they know.


So after washing the Model A and removing the overspray paint which you can read bout here,

How to remove overspray while washing your car


Next up was a few lessons on correct technique (shared above in the pictures), and then I turned the guys loose...


Here's Frank using a sanding backing pad to squeegee off the sanding slurry to inspect for orange peel. If all the orange peel has been removed you can move onto a new area to sand.

Hand_Sand_001.JPG


Hand_Sand_002.JPG




After sanding the hood flat - Frank moves onto the side panels of the engine cover.

Hand_Sand_003.JPG


Hand_Sand_004.JPG




At the back is Antti sanding the orange peel flat above the rear door

Hand_Sand_005.JPG




Here's Jim sanding to remove orange peel on the passenger side of the Model A

Hand_Sand_006.JPG




Glen is tackling the side of the engine cowl and the passenger front fender...

Hand_Sand_007.JPG




Arthur and his boys are sanding one of the rear fenders, which were left off the Model A on purpose to make sanding and buffing them and the rear section of the Model A easier.

Hand_Sand_008.JPG


Hand_Sand_009.JPG


Hand_Sand_010.JPG




Craig and Mark are tackling the other fender...

Hand_Sand_011.JPG




Hand sanding results - the major panels are all now sanded completely flat

Hand_Sand_012.JPG



Next step...
After hand sanding you can remove your sanding marks via the compounding process or you can refine your sanding marks to a much higher grit level via hand sanding again or via machine sanding. I chose to use machine sanding for the next step and those pictures are available here.


When you do everything right, the final results looks like wet paint...


1929_Pan_Dev_034.JPG





Recommendations


Before ever taking on any type of wetsanding project, first you will need the right supplies and tools. For more information on the tools and supplies we used to hand sand this freshly painted streetrod, see this article,

Cost to wetsand a car? Example of tools needed and the cost






On Autogeek.com

For just the hand sanding step, here's what we used...

Griot's Garage BOSS Finishing Papers #2000 precision finishing papers - $29.99

Meguiars Sanding Pad E7200 - $3.99




:)
 
Great article Mike. :props:

Ugh. I’m just not a fan of sanding ... I could never be a body shop guy. In saying that, I full understand the results begin at the start. It is definitely a skill that is incredibly valuable to have up your sleeve even if you seldom need you use it.

Geeze, that Panel is a sweet looker! :wow:


Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
 
Actually, just a fortnight ago I had a client come into the shop with his Ford Ranger concerned about the finish on his bonnet (hood) after having had it refinished after an altercation with a lamp post ...

Whilst not the worst, it still wasn’t pretty. To be fair, it did look worse than what I captured in the pictures. :buffing:

Before -

624d9023082d23b84c83572798cf463b.jpg


After -

baa125314ab83a1c684153516ad4da69.jpg


Before -
8dc57b889a97cb71e966f06f136d3418.jpg


After -

174245961aa41be6e67bd100c66b875c.jpg


Before -

0d05dbefb4a5c825294f3e8b62430285.jpg


After -

5f183064bd6f810dd100ed48575b2717.jpg



Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:





Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
Actually, just a fortnight ago I had a client come into the shop with his Ford Ranger concerned about the finish on his bonnet (hood) after having had it refinished after an altercation with a lamp post ...

Whilst not the worst, it still wasn’t pretty.

To be fair, it did look worse than what I captured in the pictures.


I can see the difference in the before and after pictures.


Light colored paint can be a challenge to correctly photograph and capture before and after results. So not only do detailers have to be detailers - for some, we also have to be photographers.



:)
 
good read ,that thing had a lot of peel


Thanks and "yes" - there was a lot of orange peel.

Sometimes I forget out all the cool cars we've worked on here at Autogeek over the last decade.


If I could do it over again - I would create a single webpage that simple indexed ALL the cool cars and various projects that have been detailed here at Autogeek. I'm pretty confident it's MORE than any other forum or Facebook or Instagram or anything. Its easily in the hundreds and could be thousands.


:buffing:
 
Back
Top