How would you section this hood?

[Chevota Guy]

After reading a lot on AGO and Mike's iBook, I'd like ideas on how to best section this 2007 Tahoe hood for polishing. In particular, how should I handle the raised "muscle buldges" relative to the lower horizontal sections?

I realize the OEM clear is thin and am concerned about eventually burning through the stamped body lines. This color shows everything and gets polished more than I'd like.

 

[mwoolfso]

A thin tape on the edges of each body line will do well when you polish. For the raised body lines you can lightly polish or use a chemical-based pre-wax cleaner, AIO, etc.... The only time you really need to polish those body lines is when they swirl-up but even then sometimes you may be able to get away by leaving them alone.

 

[cardaddy]

As long as you're not compounding I don't think you'll have a big problem. That being said, you would want to use ½" to ¾" tape on the edges at the early stages. Would also be a great idea to get some ¼" tape, either vinyl or masking will do. Google is your friend there as prices are all over the place, everywhere from a few bucks to fifteen for a roll.


Polishing while it does remove a bit of paint by default, really doesn't take of anywhere NEAR what compounding and a cutting pad does. It could be argued that polishing and the addition of product along the way ends up with the same paint depth measurement (or greater) than before you started.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

After reading a lot on AGO and Mike's iBook, I'd like ideas on how to best section this 2007 Tahoe hood for polishing.

In particular, how should I handle the raised "muscle bulges" relative to the lower horizontal sections?

How I would section any body panel would be easier to figure out if I were standing right in front of the vehicle, that said, here's how I would probably divide the hood into smaller sections to polish with a Porter Cable type dual action polisher. If using a more powerful tool, rotary , Flex 3401 or Rupes, you could take the small section I've outlined and tackle more of them at one time. I'd still divide the center large mass of the hood into at least two section and possibly 4 sections depending how much correction is needed.

These, longer, THINNER sections of a body panel are the norm for a lot of cars, trucks and suvs and this is why I like 5.5" pads on tools like the PC and even 4" Spot Repair Pads and that's because smaller diameter pads fit modern cars better than large pads.

As far as the raised body lines go, for the soft rolling body lines I wouldn't bother taping these of just don't hammer on them.

For any sharp raised body lines, bet some painter's tape or if you really want some nice tape, get the 1/4" 3M Blue Vinyl Tape to protect them but I don't think I would using a PC, it's just not aggressive enough for the edges on this body style.


3M Blue Vinyl Tape

Worth it's weight in gold...



3M Vinyl Tape 1/4 Inch - 06405

3M Vinyl Tape 1/8 Inch - 06404

:xyxthumbs:

 

[Chevota Guy]

Thanks for the replies. I've been using a PC but have just received a new Flex3401 and want to give it a try. The roof on this thing has a number of reinforcing ridges running the length of it and I plan to use 5" pads on it. I think the roof alone, will be an all-day job.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Thanks for the replies. I've been using a PC but have just received a new Flex3401 and want to give it a try. The roof on this thing has a number of reinforcing ridges running the length of it and I plan to use 5" pads on it. I think the roof alone, will be an all-day job.

With the Flex 3401 since it is direct drive you can tackle a much larger section at once. That said, you still want to keep the size of your sections "manageable".

In the article below I divide a full size Chevy Tahoe hood into 4 sections and this is about as large as I would ever try to "manage" at one time and still do effective correction work. To be honest, while a guy in good shape can buff out the size sections you'll see in this thread doing the center two sections while standing on the side of the truck is still quite the r-e-a-c-h to buff from front of hood to windshield.


How To Use The Flex 3401



Here I've turned the polisher on and spread my working product evenly over the entire surface I'm going to work.

I work the section using overlapping passes and a crosshatch pattern...

:xyxthumbs:

 

[cardaddy]

Thanks for the replies. I've been using a PC but have just received a new Flex3401 and want to give it a try. The roof on this thing has a number of reinforcing ridges running the length of it and I plan to use 5" pads on it. I think the roof alone, will be an all-day job.

Yup, that roof is a chore indeed! I've done a few of them, some I even removed the roof rack and with doing that it did turn into an all day or at least most of the day job for sure.

FWIW, when using a 5½" pad on the roof I don't tape up any of those edges. I *do* tape up the windshield and all trim edges plus the antenna(s), as well as the top of the doors however.

 

[CarolinaShine]

My truck has the same hood, you'll be fine without taping it off. Just take it easy on the rounded edges. When polishing my hood I do basically what Mike drew out in his first picture.

 

[Chevota Guy]

Yup, that roof is a chore indeed! I've done a few of them, some I even removed the roof rack and with doing that it did turn into an all day or at least most of the day job for sure.

FWIW, when using a 5½" pad on the roof I don't tape up any of those edges. I *do* tape up the windshield and all trim edges plus the antenna(s), as well as the top of the doors however.

I have a 3 step utility step that I use to wash the roof. It's not as stable as I'd like and I'm thinking about getting a Werner platform since I'll be spending so much time off the ground. I'd thought about removing the rack also as it looks like it would be easier in the long run.

My truck has the same hood, you'll be fine without taping it off. Just take it easy on the rounded edges. When polishing my hood I do basically what Mike drew out in his first picture.

Good to know, thanks much.

 

[cardaddy]

I have a 3 step utility step that I use to wash the roof. It's not as stable as I'd like and I'm thinking about getting a Werner platform since I'll be spending so much time off the ground. I'd thought about removing the rack also as it looks like it would be easier in the long run.



Good to know, thanks much.

Be careful with the Werner (when you get it). I can't even remember how many times I've stepped off that sucker! I actually came up with a design that would make it longer, and have a second level to it, yet still fold. Now only to get Werner to build it. :laughing:

If you do decide to remove the rack, be careful. I've read where some have said to put it together before going back on, and others not. I'm firmly in the NOT camp there! Just don't tighten everything down until it's all in place. :dblthumb2:

Here are a couple of shots of one I refinished on my kids 4Runner. It was doing some mad flaking here and there before I started. Plus while I had it off I cold do a total paint correction on it. (It's a 98 that we bought with 141K on it, 1 owner but had never been buffed.)