I think I stumbled on the perfect way to clean glass.

Don M

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My wife's Explorer is not exactly the most well cared for car. It's old & very rusty and (IMO) not very detail-worthy. I'm not going to chance washing or waxing it and risking getting rust flakes in my towels and pads.

But my wife asked me to clean her windows, so yesterday in the morning while it was still cool and the humidity was low, I went for it. They were really bad, so I decided to use a three-step approach. First I used 50/50 IPA and moderately sprayed it on the glass. Step 2, I took a WET microfiber cloth and wiped/scrubbed the glass. Step 3, I used paper towels to dry and buff the still wet glass. When I was finished with the outside & inside, I sat in the car to do the rear view mirror. That's when I noticed the door windows looked like they were down! They were THAT clean!

Then on the exterior glass. I misted T.W. Hybrid Solutions Spray Coating on and buffed it in, then using the same process, used a heavily dampened mf, I lightly wiped the glass, and immediately dried it off. The exterior glass is now extremely slick and the windows are all perfectly clear, no streaks or smears.

To make sure this wasn't a fluke, I did the same to my Camaro's windows, but this time I used T.W. Dash & Glass Cleaner instead of the IPA, and a WW microfiber cloth as the drying towel instead of paper towels on the Camaro, but otherwise the steps were exactly the same.

So It appears (to me) that it didn't matter what glass cleaning product I used, that as long as I followed the 3 steps, the windows came out perfect.

Just some food for thought.
 
Thanks for the tip...I’ve been having the worst time lately cleaning my glass, I’ll be trying your method tonight or this weekend!

Thanks again
Jay


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
I don' mean to take away from your thread but to simply offer another idea as far as it relates to cleaning glass...


While it might not seem like a big deal, the photography work for this write-up was the KEY. We all know what sun glare is and how it blinds us while we're driving. BUT capturing the glare is the tricky part.


Below is my article on this topic and the thing I teach in the article is....

Sometimes you need to start with a mechanical polish to clean glass BEFORE using liquid glass cleaners.

The chemicals and solvents in most glass cleaners work great for light cleaning. But sometimes you will have a FILM on the inside of glass, just like you get ROAD FILM staining on the outside glass and a liquid glass cleaner simply cannot cut through this film and remove it.

So you START with a polish and THEN finish out with a glass cleaner. And THIS approach works every time.



Remove the glare from where you stare


Capturing glare with a camera
I've taken thousands of pictures in my car detailing life documenting defects an all types of surfaces but when I went to take pictures of the glare caused by a film that has built-up on the inside of my truck I found it to be a little tricky. It was tricky to capture both the glare and film before and also after. But I think when you look at the pictures below you'll agree, somehow I did it.


The challenge of timing
First you have to get the pictures either early in the morning as the sun is coming up or late in the afternoon as the sun is setting. After looking at the glare at both times of the day I decided it would be better to capture early morning pictures.



Here's a shot looking out the driver's side of my truck's windshield...

Glare_001.jpg








Griot's Fine Glass Polish

Glare_002.jpg



The driver's side has been polished but I've left the passenger side alone

Glare_008.jpg


Glare_009.jpg





Sun Glare and the Multiplier Effect

It's the FILM on the inside of your car's glass that multiplies the GLARE created from sun rays hitting the windshield that blinds you while you're driving.

Glare_012.jpg





Finishing the job...

Today I finished hand polishing the entire inside glass...

Glare_014.jpg


Glare_015.jpg




Now that's a clear view!

Glare_019.jpg




I miss that truck - kind of - I never liked the fuel-injection small block. Didn't want to do all the work required to remove the small block and install an old school carburetor fuel system and a Big Block - so I sold her.

:(
 
I remember reading that article, it's what got me started thinking about multiple steps for cleaning glass.
 
Another example,


Bucket List Buff - 1968 Shelby Mustang GT350 - Detailed by Mike Phillips



I've been asked to restore the original paint on 2 very rare and valuable Shelby Mustangs. Here's pictures of the 1968 Shelby Mustang GT350


1968_Shelby_GT_350_001.JPG


Next up - glass polishing- both the inside and outside of the glass.

Do this BEFORE cleaning seats and door panels.


Click here to view the original image of 1024x768px.
dba5098fb93160caa621c50e0743a37e.jpg



76e77bb7ea8fcb25c0e6e22ff654fc61.jpg



7f972e1677f65dfe8f1f4c7dde671f4d.jpg



Click here to view the original image of 1024x768px.






Polish the outside by hand or machine first - then the inside of the windshield by hand.


Click here to view the original image of 1024x768px.
4309795e7deb3bdf76268c8e74c1457d.jpg



Click here to view the original image of 1024x768px.
8461ee024f5d9dd3eca96b4c7c4673ac.jpg



f3f284d50bf422d90cbd2d4cd464f9aa.jpg





Final results after a complete inside and outside detail

67637d1566149327-bucket-list-buff-1968-shelby-mustang-gt350-detailed-mike-phillips-img_3577-jpg



For really bad interior glass - start with a polish. The use a glass cleaner AND - LOTS of towels


:)
 
When I worked for a Toyoto dealer we used a similar processes. WE would spray glass cleaner on the glass and scrub with a water sprite chamois and then wipe with a paper towel made for glass cleaning. Never have any streakes
 
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