I want to get a rotary but im scared

Thejoyofdriving

Thejoyofdriving

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I want to get a rotary but im scared, real terrified!

I really hate the vibrations that i get from using DA's, its not good for your hands in the long run, all of that shaking. So i was thinking about getting a rotary, but using it at like 600rpm, so i will minamize paint burning. I know that you have to keep the rotary moving at all times and that you cant sit in one spot for too long, but i am still really freaked out about burning paint, or trim, or creating those crazy holograms or swirls. if i am going to be working on 300,000$ cars, i cant really afford to f up. I know about getting old car pannles and practicing on them, but i hear stories of even experienced people burning paint. i dont want a rotary to level deep imperfections like most poeple, i just want to find an alternative to all of that vibrations, if they had a orbital that didnt vibrate, i would get one, but i doubt such thing exists.so my question is, if i am using a rotary at super low speeds, can i still burn the paint with ease, what should i do?!:confused::(Feed back please
 
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Don't worry. You will be able to start at 600 but have to move up to possibly 1500 to get the most out of the polishes.
It's not that fast really.
Just keep the buffer moving at two to three inches per second, start with horizontal pass then vertical and vice versa. After three of each you should be finished. Go down to 850 to 900 rpm on the last pass or two to finish up with a better look and less holograms
 
ya man...its really not thatttt bad....as i was told by the guy who i took some lessons from with detailing...with the new age paint and clear coat...on most cars and the foam pads and stuff...its really hard to burn into the paint....now deff watch out for side moldings...or things that stick out ....or mirrors....just tape it off if your worried about it.and knock it out with the pc....i have been using rotary on the past 35ish cars i have detailed and havnt had a problem yet...only once have i seen slight holigrams and that was a v-dub and they dnt have the most forgiving clear..but i went back and fixed it....just pactice and get comf. with it and you will be ok
 
i mean...their only human .....no ones perfect....like i said...it norm. happens around those problem areas....if you are focused and take extended caution to those areas...you will be ok....now dont jump rite onto a lambo or something and go at it....get the feel and everything and you will understand y people burn....a slip of the rotary and it could slide up to the bottom of the mirrot or around the rear bumper...and front bumper and door handles....just tape it off if u have any worries at all....just practice eveyday and you should be ok
 
I agree with all the info you have received so far here, but let me add a few things. If your serious about steping up to a rotary maybe some videos would help you out. I purchased the Buffing with Confidence video and it really gave me some great tips on how to polish properly with the rotary. In addition, there are wicked tips on how to improve your results/techniques. I did a revie on the video too, may want to check it out.

Now I started with the PC and I really didn't like the vibration and my relation ship with the PC only lasted for about a month or so. I do have to admit, I'm glad that I did start with the PC first though. Once you have the basic knowledge as to how to polish with the PC and you step up to the rotary it's about the same thing. Heck, I use my rotary on side view mirrors..you know the plastic peaces...even the pilars in between the doors...the trick is to just be carefull that's all. Since you detail other vehicles like BMW, Mercedes...ect..ect...start off on them...I don't really recommend you taking a panel and practice there...it's really not the same. The second thing you need to start concidering if your serious about moving up to the rotary is which rotary? There are many rotary's out there and you need to pick the one that feels confortable to you. I own a Metabo and a Makita, comparing those to (in my opinino) the Metabo is the best one...but that's just my opinion. Don't get me wrong the Makita is fine but I found it to heavy on door panels and other vertical panels and a little difficult to grip too...but like I said that's just me. Ever since I placed my Metabo in my hands I was married to it, the Metabo has an incredable feel to it....oh and no I'm not a sales man hahahaha...I just really like the Metabo that's all.

The third thing you need to concider is the types of polishing products you are going to use, sounds to me like you have been using XMT. XMT is good for a PC but not for a rotary. I've tried it and XMT just breaks down way to fast on the rotary. Good polishing products I would recomend for the rotary would be Menzerna and Optimum both great products and are my favorites. There are others products too but those are just my favorites and that's all I use on my high end vehicles that my friends own.

Well I hope this helps and my apologies if I sound so bias hahahaha.
 
scottgt said:
ya man...its really not thatttt bad....as i was told by the guy who i took some lessons from with detailing...with the new age paint and clear coat...on most cars and the foam pads and stuff...its really hard to burn into the paint....now deff watch out for side moldings...or things that stick out ....or mirrors....just tape it off if your worried about it.and knock it out with the pc....i have been using rotary on the past 35ish cars i have detailed and havnt had a problem yet...only once have i seen slight holigrams and that was a v-dub and they dnt have the most forgiving clear..but i went back and fixed it....just pactice and get comf. with it and you will be ok
Click to expand...

Curious......you mention v-dub not having the most forgiving clear. Do you have any experience with Civics, especailly 2006? Is it considered to be very soft?

Howard
 
In the wrong hands rotaries are dangerous. I don't use my rotary often but I have burned paint, screwed up door handles and moldings. It's the nature of the beast.

I personally think that using a rotary is more labor (and mentally) intensive compared to the PC. So if you can't handle a PC I doubt you can handle a rotary. With one little wrong move the rotary can jump and hop across a hood... too much product will yeild the same results. If you don't use enough product you'll get holograms. I would much rather use a PC or UDM compared to the rotary but the quick results of a rotary are nice.

Change your pad and product combinations with the PC and see if that helps the vibrations at all. I can run the PC and UDM on speed 6 with 2 fingers.....
 
budman3 said:
In the wrong hands rotaries are dangerous. I don't use my rotary often but I have burned paint, screwed up door handles and moldings. It's the nature of the beast.

I personally think that using a rotary is more labor (and mentally) intensive compared to the PC. So if you can't handle a PC I doubt you can handle a rotary. With one little wrong move the rotary can jump and hop across a hood... too much product will yeild the same results. If you don't use enough product you'll get holograms. I would much rather use a PC or UDM compared to the rotary but the quick results of a rotary are nice.

Change your pad and product combinations with the PC and see if that helps the vibrations at all. I can run the PC and UDM on speed 6 with 2 fingers.....
Click to expand...

2 fingers:eek:? i am using the edge 2k 6inch pads, and i sure cant run my pc with 2 fingers.:(
 
Thejoyofdriving said:
so my question is, if i am using a rotary at super low speeds, can i still burn the paint with ease, what should i do?!
Click to expand...
Have you considered Cyclo, or Festool, or one of Festool's "relatives", or Flex XRC 3401 VRG?
 
My PC aint bad either, no problems holding it with 2 fingers, or..make it 3 :p Just bought my self a rotary (Metabo). I tried it today, and its great. I was a bit afraid first, checked for burned paint all the time :p But i got used to it after a while, and its a great tool :D
 
ZoranC said:
Have you considered Cyclo, or Festool, or one of Festool's "relatives", or Flex XRC 3401 VRG?
Click to expand...

I looked at the cyclo, and the flex xr, along with the festool line but, what is the diffrence, they are all orbitals, they are all going viberate?
 
ZoranC said:
Have you considered Cyclo, or Festool, or one of Festool's "relatives", or Flex XRC 3401 VRG?
Click to expand...

I agree, why not go to a moree powerful or better built PC, if there one. Such as the Makita BO6040 or the 2 mentioned above. Seems many, many posts go directly to either a PC or a Rotary with no in between machine, like the 3 mentioned. Granted you can get a rotary and PC for the price of a Festool but the Makita seems well priced. Not sure how the reviews are for the UDM, although I rather others beta test it. There must be a good, better, best for DAs.

Howard
 
I might go with the udm, i need more info on how much vibration it has.
 
Thejoyofdriving said:
well the only thing i am after is low vibrations, not more power.
Click to expand...
Festool offers both but price is on the high side. Makita BO6040 and Bosch 1250DEVS offer less vibration and are, based on specs, lower powered than Festool, I don't know how they stack up against PC/UDM. On the positive side they are not as expensive as Festool even though they are more expensive than PC/UDM.

I got my hands on Festool two weeks ago and will be testing it against PC and UDM this weekend. Watch for thread by me.
 
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