I was just thinking

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Larry A

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When you clay a car , you use soapy water or a detail spray. Can you use a spray WAX as a lube . On my car I was going to use Groits 3 and one as a clay lube . You get the claying and waxing at the same time. I would like some input from you guys.
 
So you're saying (asking) if this could be used as a shortcut to decon and add an LSP in one stroke?
 
Don’t use the Griot’s 3-in-1 as it needs to be applied evenly and removed right away. To do what you’re thinking about you need a product that stays on the surface for a while and can still be wiped off with no issues.

I know McKee’s 37 has a product specifically for this. I’m not aware of similar ones by other brands.

The reason I’m not a fan of the idea is while claying, marring can occur, especially if the lube wasn’t made for this and isn’t slick enough. Then you’d want to polish to correct that marring and this step would remove the protection just applied. The idea might work for those that are ok with some marring, potentially lots of it.
 
You can use Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine as a clay lube.
 
Meguiars has a clay kit that includes their new synthetic clay combined with a small bottle of their green bottle ceramic detailer.

Yvan LaCroix had a process where he would wash with ONR, spray some Car Wax on it, and where he sprayed the wax he use that (and the previously applied ONR) to lubricate the surface as he used their clay towel to "clay" the paint.

I've done this a few times at work where we had someone stop in for a wash & wax. It's strange to be heavy into an intensive paint correction only to be pulled from it to wash a car..
 
Larry A said:
When you clay a car , you use soapy water or a detail spray. Can you use a spray WAX as a lube . On my car I was going to use Groits 3 and one as a clay lube . You get the claying and waxing at the same time. I would like some input from you guys.
Click to expand...

Nanoskin, maybe…


Nanoskin Nano Shock AutoScrub Lubricant & Sealant works with the AutoScrub System to clean, lubricate, and seal the paint in one step. Nanoskin Nano Shock AutoScrub Lubricant & Sealant uses advanced nano-sized polymers to create a lubricant and polymer sealant combined in one product. This polymer sealant dries clear on the paint, repels water, enhances gloss, dissipates the static charge the attracts dust, and adds additional gloss and protection.


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I NEVER use anything but soapy ( car wash ) water-- any thing else is a waste of money, I put a little more wash soap in my bucket and dont fill it up as much as I usually do, then I use a wash mitt and get it fully soaked and wring it out on the hood ( horiz. surfaces ) dip it back in and leave it on the hood, roof , fender soaked, then as I clay i squeeze out solution as I need it-- it is every bit as good as the pricey stuff, works great.
 
VitreousHumor said:
Nanoskin, maybe…


Nanoskin Nano Shock AutoScrub Lubricant & Sealant works with the AutoScrub System to clean, lubricate, and seal the paint in one step. Nanoskin Nano Shock AutoScrub Lubricant & Sealant uses advanced nano-sized polymers to create a lubricant and polymer sealant combined in one product. This polymer sealant dries clear on the paint, repels water, enhances gloss, dissipates the static charge the attracts dust, and adds additional gloss and protection.


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Click to expand...

28 posts in seven years-- where you been dude? You must be the quiet type
 
once I clay bar a car or bike, I consider it to be dirty, and i set up and wash it as if it was getting a proper wash for the first time

every bike and car I've done get's three full washes

the intitial, a wash after decontamination and clay barring, and a wash after correction....once it's clean and dry, then I'll prep and do the LSP and topper
 
Lance Mark said:
once I clay bar a car or bike, I consider it to be dirty, and i set up and wash it as if it was getting a proper wash for the first time

every bike and car I've done get's three full washes

the intitial, a wash after decontamination and clay barring, and a wash after correction....once it's clean and dry, then I'll prep and do the LSP and topper
Click to expand...
You are 100% wasting your time and money with all that extra unessesary washing.

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While the protection isn't long term(maybe a few washes) if you use Optimum No RInse Wash & Wax as a clay lube(which it is formulated to do) you get nice tight beads for a bit. Combine it with the same product used as a detail spray and you would have that beading year around.

Me, I will always use a product that specifies it can be a clay lube. Remove the guess work when you can.
 
opie said:
You are 100% wasting your time and money with all that extra unnecessary washing.

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Click to expand...

i mostly do bikes, McKee's N-914 1:128 ratio, one quart does an entire motorcycle, if I doddle, it takes me 20 minutes :)

I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but hear me out at least

I use plenty of lube when I clay bar, I do it by hand and even thought it's a quick step, i'm pretty thorough......, but the next step is a wheel...i want nothing but clear coat

If I don't at least wipe the bike down with water after clay barring, the surface is streaked and covered in a film of lube and clay....and I am also worried that there could be particulates in that film.....it's just as easy for me to wipe it down with N-914

once I'm done correcting, I could just use my favorite prep....GYEON Prep....but again....a quart of n-914 does the whole bike....so i do a quick wash with n-914, and use way less prep before the LSP goes on

for efficiency sake, what would you do different?
 
I exclusively use soapy wash water now for claying, but I've used a QD spray in the past.

I would never consider a spray wax/sealant. None of I've used (to include Griots 3 in 1) have the same level of lubrication you find with the other two options, if they have any at all. They aren't designed to provide that characteristic. I'm not sure I'd even attempt claying by spraying a waterless wash product like ECH2O either. I love that product, but not sure it would be well suited as a clay lube.
 
Lance Mark said:
If I don't at least wipe the bike down with water after clay barring, the surface is streaked and covered in a film of lube and clay....and I am also worried that there could be particulates in that film.....it's just as easy for me to wipe it down with N-914

for efficiency sake, what would you do different?
Click to expand...

Do you wipe with a microfiber towel the section that was just clayed b4 moving on to the next?

I dont do bikes, but with vehicles i wash and decon. While still wet i clay the surface with usually 3d spray detailer and wipe off as i finish each sectiin/panel. Then proceed to correction step/steps.

The only time i need to "clean" after correction is is if my first step was with a wool pad. And i would just wipe off with 3D spray detailer.

Finally move onto chosen lsp.

When i detail, i like to get in and get out while doing best i can, leaving the best finish possible for the agreed apon price. I dont do have assed work, but Ive learned to not give more than the customer is willing to pay.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
 
opie said:
You are 100% wasting your time and money with all that extra unessesary washing.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Agreed.

I'm all for doing what you want, bit the guy I work with washes his cars three or four times before polishing and two or three after.

Boss says my work is better, but that's subjective to an extent.
 
better yet- forget doing bikes, unless you cant-- i would rather do 3 cars to one bike

Had a custom ness victory was a super ride but what a PITA to clean
 
well, i'm here to learn fellas

and by no means would suggest you guys aren't getting great outcomes

i was doing what I was for a purpose, but I am still green and growing

I am going to try some different lubes, and as well.....opie mentioned a point i need to consider, because i knew i was doing a wash after the lube, I was letting the lube dwell on the surface and in some spots start to dry before i circled back for the wash, I'll slow down, and do a section at a time and wipe it down right away as I do each section

thanks guys
 
luckydawg said:
better yet- forget doing bikes, unless you cant-- i would rather do 3 cars to one bike

Had a custom ness victory was a super ride but what a PITA to clean
Click to expand...

if you send me the bikes, i'll send you the cages my friend :)
 
Larry A said:
When you clay a car , you use soapy water or a detail spray. Can you use a spray WAX as a lube . On my car I was going to use Groits 3 and one as a clay lube . You get the claying and waxing at the same time. I would like some input from you guys.
Click to expand...

Short answer: YES. Like others mentioned, ONR and Nano Shock. Well, with ONR, Yvan uses ONR to wash, and then Opti's Car Wax to lube and seal while using the clay towel. Several videos on this method.


Lance Mark said:
if you send me the bikes, i'll send you the cages my friend :)
Click to expand...

Wow. Haven't seen "cages" mentioned in such a long time. Flashback to the good ol days. LOL
 
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