If my Menzerna and makita had a face Id punch it!

Ok rocket this is what confuses me! First I was told Im not using enough polish and thats why it hops around, then Im being told that Im using too much. I flip the pad over and and place dots in a star pattern. 5 dots in all around the edge of the pad. Its not enough. I cant even get a 2 foot section of coverage. Its like im dry buffing right off the bat. I need someone to point me to a video or post a video of themselves with a makita because Im about to put it away and only use it to remove wet sanding marks and polish the rest out with the XP no matter HOW long it takes. its almost more trouble than its worth. :rant:
Don't give up on the rotary we all feel your pain.As far as a video showing how to prime the pad maybe Mike P can get that handle for you.As far as priming the pad what i've done and also watched others do like Dana when we were working on my vette was pour some product in the middle of the pad and just work it into the pad all the way to the edge.I just use my hand and work it all over . Did you mention what speed your using the rotary on i may of missed that ??
 
I'm reading on another Forum that Menzerna 85 leaves an oily film on the Paint.

Do you guys concur with this... and if you do, then do you wipe it down with some IPA before applying your LSP ?
 
Researching the Menzerna Product-line a little more... I came across this little tid-bit >>> "The Super Intensive Polish Stock Number PO85RD3.02 has been renamed to PO83Q for simplicity".

Is this why AG's inventory of 85RD is limited, cause it's been re-labelled as 83Q ?
 
I'm reading on another Forum that Menzerna 85 leaves an oily film on the Paint.

Do you guys concur with this... and if you do, then do you wipe it down with some IPA before applying your LSP ?

85rd is only a bit oily if you use too much or dont break the polish down fully.

Also 85rd and SIP is not in limited supply. It is still made and stocked by many different competitors.
 
Ok rocket this is what confuses me! First I was told Im not using enough polish and thats why it hops around, then Im being told that Im using too much. I flip the pad over and and place dots in a star pattern. 5 dots in all around the edge of the pad. Its not enough. I cant even get a 2 foot section of coverage. Its like im dry buffing right off the bat. I need someone to point me to a video or post a video of themselves with a makita because Im about to put it away and only use it to remove wet sanding marks and polish the rest out with the XP no matter HOW long it takes. its almost more trouble than its worth. :rant:

I would put a dot in the middle, and I couple on the edges and go from there. Like Adam has asked what speed are you using the the rotary at? Trust me when you get the hang of it it will be more than worth it to know how to use the rotary.

I'm reading on another Forum that Menzerna 85 leaves an oily film on the Paint.

Do you guys concur with this... and if you do, then do you wipe it down with some IPA before applying your LSP ?

Yes, it will leave an oily transparent film, plus I do an IPA wipe down before my lsp.
 
The funny thing is... that when you go on the Menzerna Polishing Compounds Store in Autogeek, the chart says that it contains no Silicone... so where is the "oil" coming from ?

Have a look at the Menzerna chart in this Link...

Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna compound,

Oils have nothing to do with silicone. They can use mineral oil or any other type of oil to act as a lubricant. M80 is a perfect example of this. M80 is full of meguiars trade secret polishing oils and contains no silicone and is paint shop safe.


Ok rocket this is what confuses me! First I was told Im not using enough polish and thats why it hops around, then Im being told that Im using too much. I flip the pad over and and place dots in a star pattern. 5 dots in all around the edge of the pad. Its not enough. I cant even get a 2 foot section of coverage. Its like im dry buffing right off the bat. I need someone to point me to a video or post a video of themselves with a makita because Im about to put it away and only use it to remove wet sanding marks and polish the rest out with the XP no matter HOW long it takes. its almost more trouble than its worth. :rant:

Here I made a quick video for you on my test car. I used 85rd with a fresh 6.5" white LC Flat pad. I only use three dots and a little circle in the middle to prime the pad. For me that is all that is needed. The section I'm working on is a little bigger than a 2x2ft area. Using the zenith technique I can easily getting over 4 minutes of polishing time without it drying out.

CIMG5251.flv video by lasthope05 - Photobucket
 
Oils have nothing to do with silicone. They can use mineral oil or any other type of oil to act as a lubricant. M80 is a perfect example of this. M80 is full of meguiars trade secret polishing oils and contains no silicone and is paint shop safe.




Here I made a quick video for you on my test car. I used 85rd with a fresh 6.5" white LC Flat pad. I only use three dots and a little circle in the middle to prime the pad. For me that is all that is needed. The section I'm working on is a little bigger than a 2x2ft area. Using the zenith technique I can easily getting over 4 minutes of polishing time without it drying out.

CIMG5251.flv video by lasthope05 - Photobucket


That video is good! I like how you put your dots right on the edge.
Few questions:

what size pad is that? and WHAT pad is that? I like that much better than what i have...
And Im not sure i like the ccs LC pads..(css/ccs?)

what speed did you start at and what did you amp it up to in the middle?

I start with 1.5-2 and sometimes turn it up to 3....
 
That video is good! I like how you put your dots right on the edge.
Few questions:

what size pad is that? and WHAT pad is that? I like that much better than what i have...
And Im not sure i like the ccs LC pads..(css/ccs?)

what speed did you start at and what did you amp it up to in the middle?

I start with 1.5-2 and sometimes turn it up to 3....

That is a 6.5" flat pad. Using the zenith technique, I spread and work the polish at 1000rpm for 2 passes. 1200rpm for 2 passes slight pressure, 1500rpm 4 passes more pressure and 2 passes at 1000rpm no pressure. Im not sure of the the numbers on the makita so you will just need to look at the chart on your polisher.

The rpms and passes are generally dependent upon what you are trying to accomplish and how the polish is breaking down. I generally dont use a white pad with 85rd but I wanted to show it was a fresh pad.

Zenith.jpg


ZenithPlateau.jpg
 
Last hope, that's awesome info. That could easily explain whee most of my problems are starting. Looks like that technique would eliminate holograms possibly.

So why not usE 85rd with white? A polish with no cut and a red pad with no cut.....just don't get what it's supposed to do.
 
Well you could us 85rd/white if you wanted to for a little more bite like if you had light surface marring or light holograms. 85rd has some cut and can remove some very light defects but just not a lot. My usual is 85rd/black or blue. For me, I only use a finishing polish to amp up the gloss on dark color cars as I'm not necessarily looking for correction.

Yes this technique helps a lot in eliminating possible holograms. You are not only working in the polish to remove defects but when the polish has broken down you are basically using those broken down particles as a finishing polish to burnish and refine the paint. When you use this technique just remember to clean your pad often to remove spent polish residue and paint on the pad.
 
Last hope, that's awesome info. That could easily explain whee most of my problems are starting. Looks like that technique would eliminate holograms possibly.

So why not usE 85rd with white? A polish with no cut and a red pad with no cut.....just don't get what it's supposed to do.

You have a pad with cut and polish with very little cut so the end result is going to be a filling effect. When using a finishing polish with a no cut pad you are letting the polish do what little work it needs to do and there will be next to no chance of filling unless the marring or holograms are that bad.
 
ok that makes sense about the finishing polish and the filling. thanks guys...and thanks for that great chart!
 
I have no problems with the Menzerna finishing polishes like RD and even 203s is fine with the rotary.
But with RD3.02 I experience the same problems as the topic starter. Polish dries very quick.
 
Back
Top