I'm Confused On The Products I Bought

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toystry

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So I bought a bunch of stuff but when it arrived it was in random plastic bags and all mish-moshed together for whatever reason.

Anyway, I'm wanting to use the Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System this week on my motorcycle paint and need some assistance. Of the products pictured below, what should I use to clean my bike/car before I correct the paint using the Microfiber Correction System. I've got:

Meguiars Shampoo
Meguairs All-Purpose Cleaner
IronX

I'm assuming I want to strip any old wax off of the bike first so I'm guessing that either the APC or the IronX will do the trick, am I mistaken?

This is what I've received so far in the mail, waiting on a few more products still.



 
Wow, that's one heck of a first purchase to get into detailing!

What type of bike are you planning to detail? Sport bike or cruiser?

If you are going to be doing a full correction on a sportbike I would just wash it then clay it and start your corrections. If you are really getting into the bike and trying to make it perfect dont forget to take off the fairings when cleaning to get the frame and other partially visible areas.
 
valleyrider said:
Wow, that's one heck of a first purchase to get into detailing!

What type of bike are you planning to detail? Sport bike or cruiser?

If you are going to be doing a full correction on a sportbike I would just wash it then clay it and start your corrections. If you are really getting into the bike and trying to make it perfect dont forget to take off the fairings when cleaning to get the frame and other partially visible areas.
Click to expand...

Harley Davidson Softail (Breakout) - only has three painted panels (front/rear fender and tank).

Also, with the Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction kit it comes with a compound and a wax. I'm planning on applying CQUARTZ but from what I've read you don't want wax on the vehicle before you apply the CQUARTZ. How am I supposed to get a high gloss swirl free paint without buffing out the compound with the wax that comes in the kit afterwards? Am I supposed to use the compound first then apply something like Meguiars M205 polish afterwards vice the finishing wax?

Novice newbie, apologize for my ignorance. Any help is appreciated.
 
toystry said:
Harley Davidson Softail (Breakout) - only has three painted panels (front/rear fender and tank).

Also, with the Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction kit it comes with a compound and a wax. I'm planning on applying CQUARTZ but from what I've read you don't want wax on the vehicle before you apply the CQUARTZ. How am I supposed to get a high gloss swirl free paint without buffing out the compound with the wax that comes in the kit afterwards? Am I supposed to use the compound first then apply something like Meguiars M205 polish afterwards vice the finishing wax?

Novice newbie, apologize for my ignorance. Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Hi, really nice first order! If you're planning on doing CQUARTZ, then you can skip the wax, so you would compound (depending on the level of correction you want), polish, then clean the paint with CarPRo Eraser (which I don't see in your order) or something similar, then apply the CQUARTZ. You could wax after that has cured, but not necessary.

Also, I think I see Optimum Tire Gel in your photos? I would be VERY careful if planning to use on motorcycle tires - as a matter of fact, I wouldn't.

Hope this helps!
 
toystry said:
Anyway, I'm wanting to use the Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System this week on my motorcycle paint and need some assistance. Of the products pictured below, what should I use to clean my bike/car before I correct the paint using the Microfiber Correction System. I've got:

Meguiars Shampoo
Meguairs All-Purpose Cleaner
IronX

I'm assuming I want to strip any old wax off of the bike first

so I'm guessing that either the APC or the IronX will do the trick, am I mistaken?
Click to expand...


If I had 5 bucks for every time someone asked if they needed to strip the wax of their project's paint before polishing I'd be a very wealthy man.


Here's the deal...

The compound in the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System together with their Microfiber Cutting Disc has the power, that is the abrading ability to remove paint, i.e. remove swirls and scratches.

If the compound and the cutting disc can remove paint it's going to OBLITERATE any previously applied wax or sealant. It's not even an issue.

You can strip the old wax off if you want to, sort of anal retentive type of doing everything possible to do the absolute cleanest work and there's nothing wrong with that but you don't have to and I never have done this once in my life.

As for the Iron X, now this is a good idea. It will locate and dissolve any iron particles so you don't grind them into the paint when buffing. It will also tend to help remove any previously applied wax or sealant but to what degree nobody knows. The wax stripping element of Iron X in your situation, (you're going to compound the paint), makes this component of the product a non-issue.


Just to note, I sprayed Iron X all over a 200 Lotus with only 7000 miles on it and it bled red...


The Little Yeller Feller - 2000 Lotus Esprit V8


Also, as someone else mentioned, the CQuartz needs an oil free surface in order to bond to the paint so after compounding and polishing you will need to chemically strip the paint.

Compounding alone with the system you bought probably won't leave the paint looking perfect. The follow up product is a POLISH/WAX so the polish part of it will clean up any micro-marring left by the compound but the wax part and any oils in it will have to be removed before applying CQuartz.


Don't know how much the above helps but there you go...



:)
 
If you are going to cost after polishing try using a polish that doesn't contain wax, like M205. Then do a wipedown with eraser before coating.
Like mike said, no need to strip the current wax before polishing.
 
(Quote) I'm Confused On The Products I Bought

Aren't we all a bit on this forum?:laughing:
 
rms64 said:
Hi, really nice first order! If you're planning on doing CQUARTZ, then you can skip the wax, so you would compound (depending on the level of correction you want), polish, then clean the paint with CarPRo Eraser (which I don't see in your order) or something similar, then apply the CQUARTZ. You could wax after that has cured, but not necessary.

Also, I think I see Optimum Tire Gel in your photos? I would be VERY careful if planning to use on motorcycle tires - as a matter of fact, I wouldn't.

Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

KillaCam said:
If you are going to cost after polishing try using a polish that doesn't contain wax, like M205. Then do a wipedown with eraser before coating.
Like mike said, no need to strip the current wax before polishing.
Click to expand...

Mike already provided you with some real good info. I also agree with these two. Since you are planning to apply CQAURTZ then you would use the D300+MF cutting pad and follow up with something like M205 on a foam pad. As stated you can follow up with car pro eraser and then CQAURTZ. You can use D301 later on down the road if you wish to.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
If I had 5 bucks for every time someone asked if they needed to strip the wax of their project's paint before polishing I'd be a very wealthy man.


Here's the deal...

The compound in the Meguiar's Microfiber DA Correction System together with their Microfiber Cutting Disc has the power, that is the abrading ability to remove paint, i.e. remove swirls and scratches.

If the compound and the cutting disc can remove paint it's going to OBLITERATE any previously applied wax or sealant. It's not even an issue.

You can strip the old wax off if you want to, sort of anal retentive type of doing everything possible to do the absolute cleanest work and there's nothing wrong with that but you don't have to and I never have done this once in my life.

As for the Iron X, now this is a good idea. It will locate and dissolve any iron particles so you don't grind them into the paint when buffing. It will also tend to help remove any previously applied wax or sealant but to what degree nobody knows. The wax stripping element of Iron X in your situation, (you're going to compound the paint), makes this component of the product a non-issue.


Just to note, I sprayed Iron X all over a 200 Lotus with only 7000 miles on it and it bled red...


The Little Yeller Feller - 2000 Lotus Esprit V8


Also, as someone else mentioned, the CQuartz needs an oil free surface in order to bond to the paint so after compounding and polishing you will need to chemically strip the paint.

Compounding alone with the system you bought probably won't leave the paint looking perfect. The follow up product is a POLISH/WAX so the polish part of it will clean up any micro-marring left by the compound but the wax part and any oils in it will have to be removed before applying CQuartz.


Don't know how much the above helps but there you go...



:)
Click to expand...


Feel honored to have you respond to my post Mike, and all others as well for that matter. I've been reading on this forum more than anything the last year hence my low thread count.

With that, all of the comments were useful so I want to make sure I'm on the same page before I move forward:

1) Don't worry about stripping wax.

2) IronX is a good prep prior to correcting paint.

3) Don't use the finishing wax provided in the DA Microfiber correct kit, but instead a polish was similar to M205.

4) After applying the polish, clean paint with Eraser (any other options) or is that the only option? Was this the chemical stripping the paint you were referring to Mike?

Thanks to all involved in helping me learn. Appreciate the support. :dblthumb2:
 
Great stuff! If you don't want to purchase more polish, see if you are satisfied with results from correction compound alone. It can be pretty impressive with MF pads. If not, since you are planning on chemically stripping afterwards, consider using finishing wax and then removing wax. Seek better counsel than me, but I think you are correct about APC removing wax. An ISP/water solution of 10-15% may work also. I noticed a 3" backing plate in pics. I love my 3" MF for smaller areas. Good luck, you sound like you're off to a great start
 
Hi. Nice order! Nice directions you already got from our friends.

I've posted yesterday a topic regarding exactly this use, D300 + Cutting MF followed by Foam and M205.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ver-freelander-meets-meguiar-s-mf-system.html

In this case, I've used D301 as LSP, but if I was to coat the car (I use PBL) I would go from D300 - M205 to Pinnacle Cleansing Polish and finish with Pinnacle Black Label Coating. In your case, just follow the prep. and application of your favorite coating.

After coat cure time, you can top it with a wax if you wish to. I've used D301 over the coating (some time after application) to clean the coating and give it a new look. Worked wonders. So, take your D301 for posterior use, it's great for maintenance following MF system use. I've used it as AIO for vehicles where I've used MF system, just one single step to bring that WOW factor back. Just be sure to make a test spot before applying anything to an entire vehicle / motorcycle.

About stripping wax, I'm with Mike Phillips. I've also never stripped wax with shampoo (intentionally). What I keep in mind is, if I'm going to polish and detail a vehicle I will use my strongest cleaning shampoo - that means, chemical guys Citrus W&G. This soap, depending on concentration, can remove prior wax.

However, my use for it is for profound cleaning, and in this case I don't mind about the old wax existent.

If I'm doing maintenance wash, I'll use another soap (DP Extreme Foam, or any Wash and Wash I like, or even Citrus W&G very low concentrated)... That care is because I don't want to strip the existing wax.

So, I'm concerned about any chemical stripping action of a shampoo just to beware when washing. If I'm to maintain the Wax, I don't use concentrated shampoo. If I'm to polish and detail the entire vehicle, I'll use a concentrated shampoo for thorough cleaning (without caring for the existing wax). But the objective is cleansing power, not stripping wax. It'll come of with your clay + polish afterwards.

Hope I've helped,

Kind Regards.
 
Well I finally got around to using the Meguiars DA Microfiber Correction System and all I can say is WOW, what a great product.

I tried out a few of the new products today:

IronX
Meguiars Shampoo
Meguiars Microfiber Wash Mitt
Meguiars Microfiber Kit
Two Bucket Method
Daytona Wheel Cleaner (not impressed, glad it was free)

Anyway, I didn't get around to using the CQuartz unfortunately since I don't have Eraser, which everyone says I need prior to applying CQuartz so that will have to wait until I get a chance to order it.




 
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