I'm seeing many people use 845IW as a topper??????

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I have seen quite a few threads in the past few months where people are using Colli 845IW as a topper.

I have always felt that due to the high chemical content (solvents?) that 845IW would remove much (most) of what it is being applied over.

I know I will not use it as a topper and I am hoping to get some opinions from those of you that have a good deal of experience with 845IW to potentially assist others from reducing their objective when they use 845IW as a topper...

Let's talk.....
 
I have seen quite a few threads in the past few months where people are using Colli 845IW as a topper.

I have always felt that due to the high chemical content (solvents?) that 845IW would remove much (most) of what it is being applied over.

I know I will not use it as a topper and I am hoping to get some opinions from those of you that have a good deal of experience with 845IW to potentially assist others from reducing their objective when they use 845IW as a topper...

Let's talk.....


I usually don't layer Colly 845 over sealants....Never over other brands of carnuba waxes.
The solvent content ( be it the carrier system or not) does make me wary of there being negative, adverse effects on a sealant/wax (LSPs) being used as a "base coat" for this layering application.

Material Safety Data Sheet

OSHA's Hazard Communication Standard,
consulted for specific requirements.
IDENTITY (As Used on Label and List)
#845 Insulator Wax
Section I
Manufacturer's Name
The Collinite Corporation
Address (Number, Street, City, State, and ZIP Code)
Utica, New York 13502
Signature of Preparer (optional)

Section II - Hazard Ingredients/Identity Information
Hazardous Components (Specific Chemical Identity;
Common Name(s))
Distillates, petroleum, hydrotreated light Unavailable 200 ppm* Unavailable
(CAS 64742-47-8 )
*A TLV has not been established for this product.

Section III - Physical/Chemical Characteristics
Boiling Point
Solvent: 360-415 °F
Mixture: 194-266 °F
Solubility in Water
None
Appearance & Odor
Yellow viscous liquid, pungent odor

Section IV - Fire and Explosion Hazard Data
Flash Point (Method Used): 140 °F 60 °C Tag closed cup
NFPA Class IIIA Combustible Liquid
Extinguishing Media: Foam, Dry Chemical, CO2, Water fog or spray.
Special Fire Fighting Procedures: Use air-supplied breathing equipment for enclosed areas. Cool exposed
containers with water spray. Avoid breathing vapor.
Auto-Ignition Temperature: 453 °F 233 °C
Unusual Fire and Explosion Hazards: Do not mix or store with strong oxidants like liquid chlorine or
concentrated oxygen. Combustible liquid.

Section V - Reactivity Data
Stability
Stable
May be used to comply with
29 CFR 1910.1200. Standard must be
Unstable Conditions to Avoid
X Fires, high temperatures
Specific Gravity (H2O = 1)
0.82
Vapor Density (AIR = 1)
Solvent: 5.3
Reactivity in Water
None

U.S. Department of Labor
Occupational Safety and Health Administration
(Non-Mandatory Form)
Form Approved
OMB No. 1218-0072
Note: Blank spaces are not permitted. If any item is not
applicable, or no information is available, the space must be
marked to indicate that.
Emergency Telephone Number
315-732-2282
Telephone Number for Information
315-732-2282
Date Prepared: 3-18-2011
OSHA PEL ACGIH TLV
Flammable Limits
Vapor Pressure (mmHg)
Solvent 24.3 @100.4 °F
Melting Point
Does not apply
Other Limits
Recommended %(optional)
LEL
1.1%
UEL
6.0%


But...


From:collinite.com/about-us/faqs/

4. Can Collinite Last Step Products (LSP’s) be used in conjunction with an alternative brand sealant?

Between producing, pouring and shipping, we’ve yet to conduct testing with all the sealants out there (too lengthy to list), so this practice cannot be formally recommended. However, sealant + Collinite LSP layering is a common method among Collinite aficionados. Call us with specific questions or check out reliable online forums with inquiries.

To sum it up:

Some folks do....and Some folks don't!

:)

Bob
 
I use Collinite 845 over BFWD and WGDGPS all the time. I don't feel like it removes the base sealant.
 
Most of the Time I use 845 as stand alone lsp........but there are times when I feel I can give my customer some added protection I will use it as a topper.

Example: DG 501/105/845 I love this combo and I use it alot!
 
Ive never had an issue. Use it on top of BFWD with no ill effects.
 
I usually don't layer Colly 845 over sealants....Never over other brands of carnuba waxes.
The solvent content ( be it the carrier system or not) does make me wary of there being negative, adverse effects on a sealant/wax (LSPs) being used as a "base coat" for this layering application.

To sum it up:

Some folks do....and Some folks don't!

:)

Bob

Bob, I am always impressed by the amount of detail you add to your posts... Thanks for taking the time!

I use Collinite 845 over BFWD and WGDGPS all the time. I don't feel like it removes the base sealant.

Ive never had an issue. Use it on top of BFWD with no ill effects.

Rider and tw:
How would you quantify if it is reducing the effectiveness of the 1st layer of whatever product you are using to substantiate your findings?
 
I guess there really is no way to know for sure. I feel like the protection lasts longer than if I just used 845. So I guess that makes me feel good about it. Does anyone have any ideas on how to test if the 845 is hurting the sealant under it?
 
Most of the Time I use 845 as stand alone lsp........but there are times when I feel I can give my customer some added protection I will use it as a topper.

Example: DG 501/105/845 I love this combo and I use it alot!
:iagree:
 
1/2 panel with JUST 845
1/2 panel with whatever and 845 on top

Must be same panel in order to subject it to the same duty cycle

Tell you what. This weekend I will do the hood of the charger. One half pure 845, the other BFWD/845. I will start a thread, and keep all of you posted.
 
Tell you what. This weekend I will do the hood of the charger. One half pure 845, the other BFWD/845. I will start a thread, and keep all of you posted.

Sounds like a great test... If I may, I would suggest dividing the hood from top (near the windshield) to the bottom (near your grill).

I Look forward to it:xyxthumbs:
 
Ive wondered this as well. My thinking is, how could you even know if it removed what was under it? You would need a microscope to see the layers perhaps?
 
Sounds like a great test... If I may, I would suggest dividing the hood from top (near the windshield) to the bottom (near your grill).

I Look forward to it:xyxthumbs:

Sounds good. Out of curiosity what makes this a better method than side by side?
 
Sounds good. Out of curiosity what makes this a better method than side by side?

The top portion of the hood and the bottom portion of the hood are exposed to different elements - one that comes to mind is windshield washer fluid. The upper portion may get overspray while the lower portion will not. Also, bug removing products are generally only applied to the front portion of the hood as that is where the bugs accumulate...
 
So would that not make side by side better...? If it was side by side each contender would be exposed to both bug removal and windshield washer fluid. Idk, maybe I'm just not getting it.
 
So would that not make side by side better...? If it was side by side each contender would be exposed to both bug removal and windshield washer fluid. Idk, maybe I'm just not getting it.

Perhaps I did not explain my self adequately and we are saying the same thing in a different way. Using the below picture as an example:

To the left of the stripe would be JUST 845, to the right of the stripe would be "X" topped with 845



4.jpg
 
Haha, yeah we were. Ok sounds good. Tomorrow I will get the ball going on this.
 
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