I'm stumped - what's up with this paint?!?!

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WilliamsDetail

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Hey everyone!

Been reading for a while and just recently joined! I have now been detailing as my full time job for a few months, but I've been a hobbyist for a while.

A friend of mine wanted some help brightening his finish, so I brought some product down to see what I could do. But as it turned out, his paint kicked my butt - and I've never come across this before!

Car is a 79 Volvo 242, paint is a single stage medium blue metallic (no clear), several years old, looks to be an Earl Scheib/1-Day/Maaco job (significant overspay).

Here's the situation - most of the finish has nearly a "matte" look, but hand-polishing resulted in a few moderately glossy areas - so, we went to work with the DA and several products.

What ended up happening was like the paint just "absorbed" whatever we put on it - like nothing would wipe completely away - and the finish remained dull over MUCH of the area we compounded/polished/waxed.

I would apply something, then immediately go to wipe it away - and it looked as if it hadn't even been touched, despite blue paint on the microfiber and buffing pads. You could see an *outline* of the areas that were attacked, but other than that, no significant changes.

I didn't feel comfortable with more than orange pads and M105 not knowing the thickness of the paint (some burnt areas on the roof from someone using a rotary - the paint appears on the thin side).

Does anyone know why the paint is so resistant to glossing?! As I said - some sections came to a moderate gloss, but others - no matter what we used - stayed "hazy" looking, and seemed to absorb the product. If you have any ideas, let me know! Thanks so much! :xyxthumbs:

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I think you need some Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7; the entire Mirror Glaze line is perfect for single stage paints.
 
Well that definitely can make it tough lol but its worth a shot to try all options at least before giving in.
 
What steps were taken before you started to polish.

Did you chemically and mechanically decon the paint?

Was a proper wash done?

Do you have Mega #7 and a terry cloth?

Sent from my SPH-D710 using AG Online
 
It works. I followed what Mike did and had outstanding results. Use terry cloth towels for aggressively rubbing Meguiars #7 on and off. I used a wash cloth for application...use the same one throughout. Don't use MF towels. I did it 4 times with 24 hours of soaking in #7 each time prior to scrubbing it off with fresh towels. After the #7 it will compound out for you but I have to say a pad cleaner is worth it's weight in gold. I used a purple kompressor pad for the compounding stage. I think there was about an inch or more of oxidized paint in the bottom of the pad washer by the time I was finished. You're going to be pulling a lot of dead paint off. I think you can now see why the orange pad didn't touch it by itself. Kompressor pads have a lot of surface area to them because of the cuts made in pad not unlike a Mother's Power cone. Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to hit me up. Here's a few pics I put up on the single stage I worked on.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/70963-1959-buick-invicta-paint-restore.html
 
Will take pics on the next go-around and will update. Thanks much!

I will pick up the #7 and try that.

In answer though...car was washed, clayed, compounded, polished, and waxed. Though, none of my product is single stage specific.

It didn't matter on my personal car (1996 Volvo, red, single stage OEM) - my products made it look like a dripping wet mirror. But my friend's paint is something else! :(
 
Hazcat said:
It works. I followed what Mike did and had outstanding results. Use terry cloth towels for aggressively rubbing Meguiars #7 on and off. I used a wash cloth for application...use the same one throughout. Don't use MF towels. I did it 4 times with 24 hours of soaking in #7 each time prior to scrubbing it off with fresh towels. After the #7 it will compound out for you but I have to say a pad cleaner is worth it's weight in gold. I used a purple kompressor pad for the compounding stage. I think there was about an inch or more of oxidized paint in the bottom of the pad washer by the time I was finished. You're going to be pulling a lot of dead paint off. I think you can now see why the orange pad didn't touch it by itself. Kompressor pads have a lot of surface area to them because of the cuts made in pad not unlike a Mother's Power cone. Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to hit me up. Here's a few pics I put up on the single stage I worked on.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/70963-1959-buick-invicta-paint-restore.html
Click to expand...

WOW! That Buick looks awesome. Nice save!
 
Make sure.you clay it out, bc clay is abrasive as well and will remove much of that oxidation.. if it was a repaint it is possible some idiot put a paint sealant over it. But use the least aggressive approach... Try some megs #7 by machine.

Single stage paints are a good lesson learned on abrasiveness vs. Aggressiveness and they are both different

Sent from my PC36100 using AG Online
 
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