In debate whether or not to buy a flex 3401 or Rotary

[coles_paint_correction]

Would like to hear ur guys opinion on what i should do.
I currently have a griots 6 new model, cheap harbor freight rotary fairly good at.
Various pads/polishes 3m/megs.

I generally plan on just doing side jobs here and there.
The only real problem with my griots is i have a struggle with real bad oxidized cars or deep etching. I know sanding is the answer in some cases.
Just looking to stay with a rotary/da for atm.

Buffer trails scare me and would like to figure out a good plan of attack depending on customers needs.
So with all being said what would you guys suggest i do? Get the flex 3401 or some type of Rotary dewalt/makita/3m.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys.

 

[rbss]

I have a Flex and a Makita. The Makita rarely gets used. I can correct paint flawlessly with my flex and not worry about holograms. I might pick up my Makita and a wool pad if I am trying to clean up sanding marks other than that my Flex can handle everything.

 

[dlc95]

One thing I did like about the 3401 was it's performance on heavy oxidation.

However, the Purple LC kompressor pad will definitely be an asset if using a random orbital machine. That or the blue Rupes coarse cutting foam. Big open cells, thick cell walls, and a fibrous texture allow these type of pads to eat oxidized paint.

 

[usmcpab]

I also have a Makit that rarely gets used. My Rupes 21mkii can handle just about any job. If I need wool pads then I'll use the makita, but wool pads are very rare.

 

[coles_paint_correction]

One thing I did like about the 3401 was it's performance on heavy oxidation.

However, the Purple LC kompressor pad will definitely be an asset if using a random orbital machine. That or the blue Rupes coarse cutting foam. Big open cells, thick cell walls, and a fibrous texture allow these type of pads to eat oxidized paint.

Thanks for the reply dlc95, Are those pads in conjunction with the 3401 or rupes they will remove preety bad oxidized paint? Thats really the only real concern i guess i have with the da's are to remove real serious paint oxidized.

 

[richy]

I've been using the combo of the 3401 + black wool Tuf Buff pads for several years. There is very, very little that combo can't remove. I'd strongly suggest it, since you have a cheap rotary already. You'll get way more use out of your Flex. For me, it's like the best of both worlds...rotary type power yet with the added bonus of forced rotation.

 

[Paul A.]

I am in a similar situation with a rotary and a PC. I have wanted a Flex 3401 since they came out but was satisfying every customer just fine with my 2 machine set up. I do about 80-90% rotary work, 10-20% PC and 100% LSP application with my PC. Then came the Flex XCE announcement and that was the one i would get.

AutoGeek then says "ok, gang...we'll do a Flex 3401 HD upgrade and throw in the 4" backing plate for ya!". Bam!!! That, coupled with the delay in releasing the XCE until later this year and i was IN!

Now here's my perspective. I am extremely comfortable with my rotary and forced rotation. I have all but eliminated buffer trails, holograms etc with refining my techniques, pads, products etc. For me, forced rotation = speed of work and i like that a lot. And jewelling with my rotary and Menzerna super fine polishes is almost better than s**. So...i ordered the Flex (due here today...woohoo!) with the upgrades and i am sure it will replace my rotary. I will have my rotary for backup PLUS i ordered the Flex PE-8 mini BP and pads so i will turn my rotary into a mini finesse tool for the tight areas. Like others have said, i think the Flex 3401 is the best of both worlds combining forced rotation with dual action. For me this was a no brainer but certainly respect the Rupes, BOSS etc. users. I don't think there is a bad machine in the AG lot with offerings for anybody afflicted with the "Sickness". I'm just a forced rotation geek.

My next machine? My 4th? A Rupes!