Interior trim restoration off the car

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markiteight

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Hi Mike,
I posted this in the general forum but didn't really get an answer. I hope in your infinite wisdom you can point me in a direction. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me!

Original Post:

I know there are other threads addressing clear coated interior trim pieces but they seem to focus on the best methods for working on trim installed in the car. I just scored a set of factory "carbon fiber" trim pieces to replace the existing wood trim in my car. I'd like to take advantage of the fact that they're easily accessible and make them as pristine as possible before I install them. They're in pretty decent shape overall with what appears to be only light swirling:



This level of damage is consistent across all eleven pieces, however there is one piece that has a small scuff in one corner:




I have a pre-XP Porter Cable 7424, but everything else I will need to accomplish this project will have to be purchased, and I'm still quite the noob so I am interested in your experience and suggestions.

I see that 3D HD Speed seems to get almost universal praise in these parts. Will something like that be adequate in my situation? If so what would be the right pad(s) to go with it? Based on the pictures would something more aggressive be necessary? I want to use the bare minimum needed to get satisfactory results. That's why something like HD Speed caught my eye; assuming the situation is within the realm of HD's capabilities the concept of doing everything in one step is appealing.

One thing to note: whatever Audi used as a protective coating over the CF is extremely thick. When looking at the scuff in the second picture while moving the trim piece around there is a clear parallax effect, which means the scratch on the surface is quite some distance from the CF material itself. This makes me wonder if it's even a clear coat at all. If it's something else like a think layer of polished clear plastic, will that affect the choice of products and method?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
This is what I posted in your other thread to your question about applying a polish/compound by hand being more aggressive than machine...

Ummmmmm, no. By hand is MUCH more gentle than a machine (or can be).

I can't tell you exactly what will work on this nor could anyone else...thats why you didnt get responses.

Try something light as in Meguiars Ultimate Polish and a MF towel on your finger. You can use the PC if you would like I dont care they are your parts. UP is like $9 at wallyworld, if you have $20 then grab a bottle of Ultimate Compound too and that would be the next step more aggressive.
 
dcjredline said:
This is what I posted in your other thread to your question about applying a polish/compound by hand being more aggressive than machine...
Click to expand...

I never said anything about aggressiveness. As far as I know no one else has either. From what I've read the difference is the level of skill and technique required is considerably greater when working by hand.

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The problem with working small trim pieces like you're talking about is that it's difficult to use a machine to work on these areas and trying to do so by hand requires skill and experience. (emphasis added)

...

If you can use a fast, hand polishing motion, then you need good technique and after teaching people how to hand polish for years at Meguiar's using ScratchX and then after it was introduced, M105 and Ultimate Compound, I found that still... most people don't have the patience, nor skill and ability...
Click to expand...

Having never been taught proper hand technique I do not possess these skills to which Mike refers. Hence my question about working on the pieces off the car with the PC.

dcjredline said:
Try something light as in Meguiars Ultimate Polish and a MF towel on your finger. You can use the PC if you would like I dont care they are your parts. UP is like $9 at wallyworld, if you have $20 then grab a bottle of Ultimate Compound too and that would be the next step more aggressive.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I will look into those products. Just to clarify, is your recommendation for attacking the scuff or for the swirl marks in general?

I fear I may not have been very clear in my original post, and if that's the case I apologize, but I was asking two separate questions. One was seeking suggestions/recommendations on attacking the light swirls present on all the parts. The other was suggestions on what to do about the scuff on one part. Honestly I'm more interested in cleaning up the swirls than fixing the scuff as it's on one of the rear door pieces and therefore not on prominent display. I apologize again if I failed to make that clear in my original post.
 
The thickness of the clear should be a resin that is covering, and incorporated into, the carbon fiber. I believe somewhat like a fiberglass and gel coat.

You could sand the scuff with wet/dry sand paper, then polish it if needed. Maybe start around 2000-3000 grit depending on how scratched or "scuffed" it is.

You may want to see what some polish and some pressure does to the spot first, but don't over heat it.

As for protection; if you want to go all out, put a paint coating on it.
 
Thanks, Mantilgh! That is great info, and that table you linked to is brilliant. I'll be referencing it often.

One more question:
I'm assuming that working with small trim pieces and small areas I'll want a small pad. I'm looking at the 3" Lake County pads but they don't offer the white flat flavor in that size, as far as I can tell. Would the tangerine pad be a close approximation?

Thanks again for all the help!
 
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