IPA after 85RD???

duck_commander

duck_commander

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i read the description of Men. 85RD on AG before i bought the product and the bottle also says it does not contain any silicones and fillers...

SO, after i 'final polish' with 85RD, should i do a 11% IPA wipe down before my LSP, which in this case is either going to be DG 105/601 OR Optimum Opti-Seal.
 
duck_commander said:
i read the description of Men. 85RD on AG before i bought the product and the bottle also says it does not contain any silicones and fillers...
Click to expand...

Just keep in mind that the Menzerna line is what is categorized as a "Professional Line", just like 3M makes a Professional Line and Meguiar's makes a Professional Line. These products are formulated and targeted for use in the refinishing industry which is what you and I think of as "body shops". That is where fresh paint is sprayed then often sanded and buffed and for this type of "fresh paint environment" you only take and use body shop safe products, thus the no-silicone feature of the product.

If you're a consumer, working on cured paint, which is 99.9% of us, me included unless I'm working on a brand new paint job, the silicone ingredient is a non-issue.

duck_commander said:
SO, after i 'final polish' with 85RD, should i do a 11% IPA wipe down before my LSP, which in this case is either going to be DG 105/601 OR Optimum Opti-Seal.
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There's two schools of thought on this topic.

1. You must chemically strip the paint in order for the protection ingredients to properly bond

2. Go ahead and apply your LSP without chemically stripping.


Keep in mind you risk marring the paint when you chemically strip. If you use the SF 4500 – Super Finish Polish (PO85RD) and you're working on black paint you're going to leave a mirror finish behind. Wiping with IPA will tend to dull these results down, not make the paint look even better.

Follow the manufactures directions for the LSP, if they say you need a chemically stripped finish then chemically strip. If they don't then personal preference.


I have articles on all of the above topics...


:)
 
Thanks for the GREAT reply Mike!

"all the above topics" you referred to, i think i have read at least 3 times. LOL... But i just wasn't sure if the DG 105/601 needed a 'clean' surface to properly bond to, as the directions, at least i thought, did not say to chemically strip the surface.

Again, i appreciate your feeback Mike... I just feel honored that a celebrity in the professional detailing world, is answering my posts! :)
 
You can put me in the class that applies 85RD, then straight to a sealant/carnuba paste. I personally don't find a strip wash/ipa worth the marring risk, that's just my opinion though.
 
Mike, would you do a chemical wipe down with either IPA or CarPro Eraser if you were going to Opti Coat the car? I believe SF4500 doesn't say anything to chemically cleaning the paint before a LSP. I just wanted to make sure before I do this black Vette and I usually finish polishing a car with SF4500.
 
NFA said:
Mike, would you do a chemical wipe down with either IPA or CarPro Eraser if you were going to Opti Coat the car? I believe SF4500 doesn't say anything to chemically cleaning the paint before a LSP. I just wanted to make sure before I do this black Vette and I usually finish polishing a car with SF4500.
Click to expand...

I did this on my personal car last week.
Polished with po85rd and did (2) full wipe down with eraser, then applied with cquartz.
Topped it reload, now my car is shiny as hell
 
Duck...thanks for brining this up as I'm getting ready to polish my car with PO85RD.

Mike...you got a link to those articles you mentioned? Also, can I apply a sealant and then nuba after 85RD?
 
TimmyG said:
You can put me in the class that applies 85RD, then straight to a sealant/carnuba paste. I personally don't find a strip wash/ipa worth the marring risk, that's just my opinion though.
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I tend to be in this camp too unless the manufacture of the LSP specifically states to strip the paint.

I have yet to see any application of wax, paint sealant or coating piled up on the garage floor surrounding the car because it slipped-off over night due to bonding issues.

:D

NFA said:
Mike, would you do a chemical wipe down with either IPA or CarPro Eraser if you were going to Opti Coat the car? I believe SF4500 doesn't say anything to chemically cleaning the paint before a LSP. I just wanted to make sure before I do this black Vette and I usually finish polishing a car with SF4500.
Click to expand...

All quality polishes use some type and some level of polishing oils to lubricate the surface while it's being abraded so the paint isn't simply scoured. Common sense tells us this wouldn't look good and the reason any of us are polishing paint is to make it look good.

So "yes" if I were to follow Menzerna polishes with Optimum products I would get the surface clean. Another option would be to carefully wash the car using a detergent wash a super gentle wash mitt. Note I have articles on how to carefully wash a car which is a lot different then aggressively washing a car.

Also, Dr. David Ghodoussi states that if you use his polishes you can use a water dampened microfiber towel to wipe the paint before applying his coatings.

Multiple options available for everyone's preferences...



fenderpicks said:
I did this on my personal car last week.
Polished with po85rd and did (2) full wipe down with eraser, then applied with cquartz.
Topped it reload, now my car is shiny as hell
Click to expand...

What color is it?



alko said:
Mike...you got a link to those articles you mentioned?
Click to expand...

Sure... they are under Misc Topics...


Misc Topics

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results




alko said:
Also, can I apply a sealant and then nuba after 85RD?
Click to expand...

Yes.


:)
 
i know you're directing your question to Mike, but i don't see why you can't place a nuba on a sealant that's ontop of 85rd... at least i would think that giving the sealant 12 -24 hours to cure would be the safest thing before topping with nuba... i'm thinking outloud at this point in my rant. LOL

what sealant and nuba you thinking about using?
 
It was for you to see as well...seems like we're on the same page here :-)

After 85RD, I plan on sealing with BFWD (new version) and then topping off with 1 or 2 coats of Swissvax Concorso.

What is your plan? Have you figured out what pads you're going to use? I've got a poc in the UK right now that I plan on purchasing some 3M blue pads. He'll be back later next month. This will minimize the shipping cost across the pond.

Oh...and after reading the link Mike provided I don't think I'm going to do a wipe down after 85RD
 
LOL... same page, same paragraph!

Umm well i'm gonna polish with Hyper polish with an orange or yellow cut pad, LC flat foams...

Final polish to get the metal flake to shine, with 85RD on a black LC flat foamy.

Top with either O-S and the yellow foam pads AG supplies you with upon ordering. OR Top with the 105/601 combo on a blue foamy...

Then at somepoint, top with AquaWax.
 
don't know where i've been, but the Hologram Free thread is a new one to me.

Thanks Mike!
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Love that color... reason for asking is because it's really hard to see the dulling and micro-marring caused by IPA wipes on anything but black paint.

I talk about that here,

Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer


:)
Click to expand...

Im about to detail my gf's car which is a 2010 black mini cooper
Is got tons of swirls and scratches....
I plan on doing the same thing i did with my car on hers....
So if IPA wipes will cause marring and dulling... should i use something else as my polish then...? SOmething less oily than the po85rd
 
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