Iron cleaning products vs wheel cleaners?

T

TheMidnightNarwhal

New member
Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
228
Reaction score
0
I am trying to gauge which one sits higher or if there is one better than the other.

For example I have both Brake Buster and CarPro IronX. Is IronX on it's own good enough as a cleaner for wheels? I know Sonax makes a wheel cleaner that changes color, is it exactly the same as CarPro or a wheel oriented forumla?

And sometimes when I do brake buster then IronX am I wasting my time and could just use IronX on it's own?
 
I have seen where people have used iron x as a wheel cleaner and seen some people even agitate paint with a MF mitt on paint.

I personally would not use it on a dirty surface (including wheels) due to not knowing its lubricity. I usually spray on dirty wheels let soak and then follow up with a cleaning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've been using iron remover on my wheels more lately. My cars are cleaned often enough I don't really get tar buildup or other things wheel cleaners might also help with. It's just straight brake dust and sometimes rust from the rotor so the iron remover cuts to the chase. It's also less expensive.

I'm not sure what the post above is saying but I spray it on a dirty wheel, dwell, rinse with pressure washer (the wheel is 85% clean at this point), clean with wash water using dedicated brushes and a dedicated mitt, apply Hyde's to the rotor, air dry.
 
gofast182 said:
I've been using iron remover on my wheels more lately. My cars are cleaned often enough I don't really get tar buildup or other things wheel cleaners might also help with. It's just straight brake dust and sometimes rust from the rotor so the iron remover cuts to the chase. It's also less expensive.

I'm not sure what the post above is saying but I spray it on a dirty wheel, dwell, rinse with pressure washer (the wheel is 85% clean at this point), clean with wash water using dedicated brushes and a dedicated mitt, apply Hyde's to the rotor, air dry.
Click to expand...

Usually in the sumemr my wheels are also cleaned often, full car cleaned every week but yeah iinter since it's other wheels and winter, usually try to clean the car once per month. I didn't think normal cleaners would help with tar and things like that. I do have TarX as well if I would need I guess.

Your reply brings me my other question. Between Brake Buster or IronX which one is the most effective to clean wheel without touching? I gotta say it is a PITA to bring a bucket and all that to the coin wash in the winter for wheels. If I add the touchless option, I could go more often to the coin wash only to wash the wheels since it's easier.

I think what the other person is saying which I somewhat agree with, IronX on it's own doesn't seem to provide lubricity compared to like my IK foamer with brake buster. But I guess if you put soap in your wheel bucket (I do) it negates the point.

More and more tempting to get rid of brake buster just because it's one less thing on the shelf if IronX does both. Need to calculate how much more expensive it is though first.
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
I have seen where people have used iron x as a wheel cleaner and seen some people even agitate paint with a MF mitt on paint.

I personally would not use it on a dirty surface (including wheels) due to not knowing its lubricity. I usually spray on dirty wheels let soak and then follow up with a cleaning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

From a power perspective though which one works best? For example I'm starting to want to do touchless wheel washes.
 
TheMidnightNarwhal said:
From a power perspective though which one works best? For example I'm starting to want to do touchless wheel washes.
Click to expand...

Good luck my friend. Touch-less wheel washes are a unicorn. I would definitely go the wheel cleaner route and use one that has the iron remover added. I am guessing that it has other cleaners as well as an iron removers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
TheMidnightNarwhal said:
Usually in the sumemr my wheels are also cleaned often, full car cleaned every week but yeah iinter since it's other wheels and winter, usually try to clean the car once per month. I didn't think normal cleaners would help with tar and things like that. I do have TarX as well if I would need I guess.

Your reply brings me my other question. Between Brake Buster or IronX which one is the most effective to clean wheel without touching? I gotta say it is a PITA to bring a bucket and all that to the coin wash in the winter for wheels. If I add the touchless option, I could go more often to the coin wash only to wash the wheels since it's easier.

I think what the other person is saying which I somewhat agree with, IronX on it's own doesn't seem to provide lubricity compared to like my IK foamer with brake buster. But I guess if you put soap in your wheel bucket (I do) it negates the point.

More and more tempting to get rid of brake buster just because it's one less thing on the shelf if IronX does both. Need to calculate how much more expensive it is though first.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure why you're concerned with lubricity. You shouldn't need to directly agitate the wheel cleaner on your wheel, or, if you do, it would be on a second application. You really want to blast off the majority of dirt and grit before agitating no matter what. I happen to hit it with the chemical before doing that initial blast. Applying the chemical after a first rinse results in some dilution of said chemical due to the wheel being wet which is why I don't do it that way.

My preference of those two chemicals is Iron X and is the iron remover I tend to use; however, Brake Buster does have a rust inhibiting property for the rotors if that's of interest to you (I use a separate product for that).

Honestly, the pressure washer alone will get my wheels 70+% clean in most cases, 85+% clean with a hit from Iron X first. Full disclosure, my wheels are coated with CQ UK 3.0. Occasionally I do manage a touchless wheel clean if my wash interval is a week and it didn't rain.
 
gofast182 said:
I'm not sure why you're concerned with lubricity. You shouldn't need to directly agitate the wheel cleaner on your wheel, or, if you do, it would be on a second application. You really want to blast off the majority of dirt and grit before agitating no matter what. I happen to hit it with the chemical before doing that initial blast. Applying the chemical after a first rinse results in some dilution of said chemical due to the wheel being wet which is why I don't do it that way.

My preference of those two chemicals is Iron X and is the iron remover I tend to use; however, Brake Buster does have a rust inhibiting property for the rotors if that's of interest to you (I use a separate product for that).

Honestly, the pressure washer alone will get my wheels 70+% clean in most cases, 85+% clean with a hit from Iron X first. Full disclosure, my wheels are coated with CQ UK 3.0. Occasionally I do manage a touchless wheel clean.
Click to expand...

Interesting others are saying agitation is definitely gonna be needed.

Yeah the rust inhibitor is quite a gimmick, rust goes away when using the brakes so.
 
TheMidnightNarwhal said:
Interesting others are saying agitation is definitely gonna be needed.

Yeah the rust inhibitor is quite a gimmick, rust goes away when using the brakes so.
Click to expand...

You're not reading the totality of my posts. The vast majority of the time I do agitate...with a bucket of wash water and my assortment of brushes and mitt.

Pre-treat with Iron X and blast with pressure washer= ~85+% clean
Agitate with wash water and dedicated tools= 100% clean

The rust inhibitor is hardly a gimmick. Both of our daily drivers are BMWs with large rotors. If left alone, the first drive after a wash there will be a fine but visible coating of rust dust on the wheels. That coating of dust attracts even more dust and turns into a mess if it gets damp. Brake Buster did a decent job when applied specifically to the rotor. Hyde's Serum Rust Stopper does even better.
 
gofast182 said:
You're not reading the totality of my posts. The vast majority of the time I do agitate...with a bucket of wash water and my assortment of brushes and mitt.

The rust inhibitor is hardly a gimmick. Both of our daily drivers are BMWs with large rotors. If left alone, the first drive after a wash there will be a fine but visible coating of rust dust on the wheels. Brake Buster did a decent job when applied specifically to the rotor. Hyde's Serum Rust Stopper does even better.
Click to expand...

Oh right ok gotcha, yeah, the touchless washes are just for like maintenance/upkeep I'd say.

Yes but that feature is a gimmick because the rust is removed by simply braking. I have a BMW with large rotors to, just move the car and brake.
 
TheMidnightNarwhal said:
Oh right ok gotcha, yeah, the touchless washes are just for like maintenance/upkeep I'd say.

Yes but that feature is a gimmick because the rust is removed by simply braking. I have a BMW with large rotors to, just move the car and brake.
Click to expand...

It's not a gimmick because I don't want that rust ending up on my wheel(s) by having the pad abrade it off into dust. It can turn into a horrible mess esp. if the car sees light moisture and then re-dries onto the rim. I can assure you 100% that treating the rotor makes a big difference in my experience.
 
I blow dry my rotors (wheels/tires) after washing and don't have rust problems.
 
Rsurfer said:
I blow dry my rotors (wheels/tires) after washing and don't have rust problems.
Click to expand...

Yeah I do, too. The thing is if I don't treat them after cleaning the wheels they get a fine film of rust (not yet enough to make dust on the wheels) BUT after hitting the car with the foam cannon and then a contact wash, by the time I get back to dry it that rust will have increased to the point where it will make dust when the car is moved. Oddly enough the rear rotors of my wife's X5 have this problem far worse than the fronts and worse than any other car we've had.
 
If I understand, the core problem is not being able to use water to wash during the winter. I’m thinking of getting a Worx Hydroshot so I can get water from a bucket to be able to rinse the wheels without hooking up a hose. Would that address your need? Or did I misread the focus with the discussion of the rust preventer?
 
gofast182 said:
Yeah I do, too. The thing is if I don't treat them after cleaning the wheels they get a fine film of rust (not yet enough to make dust on the wheels) BUT after hitting the car with the foam cannon and then a contact wash, by the time I get back to dry it that rust will have increased to the point where it will make dust when the car is moved. Oddly enough the rear rotors of my wife's X5 have this problem far worse than the fronts and worse than any other car we've had.
Click to expand...

I've never heard of the rust dust being an issue. I have not experienced the same issue as you even though I use brake buster 1:4, the rotors still become rusty.
 
dgage said:
If I understand, the core problem is not being able to use water to wash during the winter. I’m thinking of getting a Worx Hydroshot so I can get water from a bucket to be able to rinse the wheels without hooking up a hose. Would that address your need? Or did I misread the focus with the discussion of the rust preventer?
Click to expand...

Yeah the topic kinda went offtopic here... but yeah even with the hydroshot I rather not get my driveway all icy either. That's why I use the coin wash to pre-prinse the car and clean wheels, then I drive back home and do a ONR wash in the garage (unheated).
 
TheMidnightNarwhal said:
I've never heard of the rust dust being an issue. I have not experienced the same issue as you even though I use brake buster 1:4, the rotors still become rusty.
Click to expand...

I used Brake Buster neat and would give the rotors a quick mist after cleaning the wheels. No rust would form, just a dull residue. Hyde's Serum is even better, the rotor maintains a shiny metal finish. With either one of those products, no rust dust on the wheels after driving away.
 
TheMidnightNarwhal said:
Yeah the topic kinda went offtopic here... but yeah even with the hydroshot I rather not get my driveway all icy either. That's why I use the coin wash to pre-prinse the car and clean wheels, then I drive back home and do a ONR wash in the garage (unheated).
Click to expand...

Another option might be Ammo Frothe as people seem to think the foam encapsulates dirt better so this would give you good cleaning with no mess. I’d feel better about this with a prewash but I’ve seen Frothe used on some pretty dirty vehicles though I’ve never used it myself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top