Iron/Fallout Removers?

soapboxpreacher

soapboxpreacher

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I scoured thru the forums and found some older posts about Iron removers. Trying to find one that gets those pain in the butt orange dots out of white paint. Back of the car has a good amount, claying took some out but there are still fair amount on it. I know about Iron-X aka Stinky-X but it is not cheap! 110 for a gallon. I dont need that much but it seems like many are doing the entire car to really prep paint well. As I have already Claybarred and the car looks good I dont know if I need to do the whole car again just the spot clean the Orange crap stuck to the clear coat. Let me know which Iron/Fallout removers you guys like, for last in depth post I read here was in 2017.

So far I have gathered Adams seems like a decent cost effective option, Mags Ultimate Wheel cleaner does this along with Eagle One Triple...they all are affordable. Once again let me know which one you guys use thats on the cost saving side. I blew a ton of cash on all the other detailing stuff I just ordered from AG so need to take it easy for a a month or two or the wife is gonna kill me!
 
Just bought IronX from Autopia website for 25% off few days ago. I did a quick research and it seems to be one of the very best. For such price I think its a good deal
 
North1Star said:
Just bought IronX from Autopia website for 25% off few days ago. I did a quick research and it seems to be one of the very best. For such price I think its a good deal
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Same here. Purchased it from AG during a 25% off sale. Can't speak to it's performance from personal standpoint yet but and will be giving it a try sometime during the next few weeks. Everything I've seen, read and heard seems to indicate that it's one of the best, though, albeit a bit pricey.
 
One whiff of Iron-X and you'll never want to use it again. Meg's All Wheel Cleaner is great, far cheaper, and no bad smell.

I'm about to order some Auto Fanatic Foaming Wheel Cleaner - seems like a great product and at a good price (and no smell!)
 
I presently have BDX brand iron remover. Works good, I don't remember the price but I'm positive my cheap meter guided me there. Good results.

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I just used the Eagle One 3-in-1 wheel cleaner on my wheels and the color of the run off was deeeeep purple. I hadn’t used any iron remover on this car in its existence, so there was probably a lot of build up. The smell was way less noxious than Iron-X. My wheels looked pretty good after some agitation and rinsing with water.

I did not try it on the paint though. I suspect that it’s not as concentrated as Iron-X but it’s also a quarter of the price and available locally.

The one thing I didn’t like was that the sprayer trigger started getting stuck after doing a couple wheels. If I were to use it on the paint, I’d probably transfer it to a better spray bottle,
 
The meguiars products gets good reviews, so does the McKee’s. I have Griots fallout and iron x. Going to compare soon when I polish. All are $79 on AG so if you wait for a sale would be 59$. I feel though as much as I’ve read on it being 25$ more a gallon it’s worth it. If your not a hobbiest then I get it that can be a lot of $25 dollar bills over the years.


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Good call on the mitt! Obsessed garage has a YouTube video up where he goes to meguiars headquarters part 1 and they talk in depth about the new meguiars one I was impressed but think they sell in gallon only.
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
The meguiars products gets good reviews, so does the McKee’s. I have Griots fallout and iron x. Going to compare soon when I polish. All are $79 on AG so if you wait for a sale would be 59$. I feel though as much as I’ve read on it being 25$ more a gallon it’s worth it. If your not a hobbiest then I get it that can be a lot of $25 dollar bills over the years.


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Please update us through this thread once you do your comparison. Thanks in advance
 
Firedude386 said:
DO you need to use iron remover if you clay bar/mitt?
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Yes the claybar didnt not get everything out. I did claybar twice in a few spots. I have the orange specks everywhere!!! Some have came out but others are just badly in the paint.
 
So did the wife’s Jeep with megs all wheel cleaner and it worked well....however I used the whole 32oz bottle on that car! It was a mess! I hit a few spots 2x. It doesn’t smell bad. My process was clean the car first, the. Spray it on and wait 5 mins (before it dries). Then high pressured rinse it off. I believe this is a good way to do this. Let me way or something I am doing wrong.
 
soapboxpreacher said:
So did the wife’s Jeep with megs all wheel cleaner and it worked well....however I used the whole 32oz bottle on that car! It was a mess! I hit a few spots 2x. It doesn’t smell bad. My process was clean the car first, the. Spray it on and wait 5 mins (before it dries). Then high pressured rinse it off. I believe this is a good way to do this. Let me way or something I am doing wrong.
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Pretty much how it's done. If you have a lot of iron particals that is hard to be rinsed off. You can aggitate lightly with a mf towel or other wash media and get more effective removal. If I see it's very bad on the second application I useally do this. And it's easy to control to just spraying a little on a spot where you had bleeding effect on if it's still bleeds you have it on still. This is also where a dedicated iron remover is showing it's effective removal IME.
 
Firedude386 said:
DO you need to use iron remover if you clay bar/mitt?
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Good question. Here's the technical answer.


Claying also referred to as MECHANICL decontamination - mechanically abrades contaminants that are BONDED to the surface and will not simply wash or wipe off.


Iron removers are referred to as CHEMICAL decontamination - chemically dissolves both above surface and below surface contaminants so they will wash off.



Here's one of my personal favorite articles I've written over the years. I reference this in a lot of classes when we cover the topic of chemical decontamination.


The Car Insurance Analogy for using an Iron Remover by Mike Phillips


Car_Insurance_01.jpg
Car_Insurance_02.jpg




:)
 
Coatingsarecrack said:
The meguiars products gets good reviews, so does the McKee’s. I have Griots fallout and iron x. Going to compare soon when I polish. All are $79 on AG so if you wait for a sale would be 59$. I feel though as much as I’ve read on it being 25$ more a gallon it’s worth it. If your not a hobbiest then I get it that can be a lot of $25 dollar bills over the years.


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Have you had a chance to compare your Griots Garage Iron & Fallout Remover and CarPro Iron X?
 
What I have notice most iron removers are now iron remover/wheel cleaner with these products you can only use synthetic clay because a traditional clay bar get broken down and will be unusable.

One advantage of ironx it had had less effect on traditional clay bar and you didn’t have to switch to clay mitt. Clay bars tend to do a better job in my experience but that slight edge is made up by newer gen iron removers that are wheel cleaner they have a bigger punch and work great with clay mitt.

It is important to me that clay and iron remover is combined into 1 step.
 
Mgavin1985 said:
What I have notice most iron removers are now iron remover/wheel cleaner with these products you can only use synthetic clay because a traditional clay bar get broken down and will be unusable.

One advantage of ironx it had had less effect on traditional clay bar and you didn’t have to switch to clay mitt. Clay bars tend to do a better job in my experience but that slight edge is made up by newer gen iron removers that are wheel cleaner they have a bigger punch and work great with clay mitt.

It is important to me that clay and iron remover is combined into 1 step.
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I just asked a relevant question here :dunno:https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...s-talk-about-iron-removers-6.html#post1651188
Trying to clear up the confusion.
 
mpulsiv said:
Have you had a chance to compare your Griots Garage Iron & Fallout Remover and CarPro Iron X?
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I did. Unfortunately I got no purpling from either which I guess is a good thing but kind of disappointing. The Griots is more gel like and cling to paint better which I would think would be better if you have lots of contaminates. Wheels no purple either but brakes bled well. If it’s true that griots has double the amount of active ingredient and clings better may work better?


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