Iron X 1:1 dilution?
- Thread starter choijw2
- Start date
Heisenberg
New member
- Aug 16, 2013
- 580
- 0
I use it straight. I don't think CarPro recommends diluting it - it will still "work" but you're further watering it down and reducing its effectiveness.
rlmccarty2000
New member
- Dec 23, 2013
- 2,002
- 0
I also use it straight. I don't think it was meant to be diluted.
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
- 21,057
- 1
Below is a popular manufacturers'
"Disclaimer"...that I've seen quite often:
•Always follow the manufacturer's directions.
-If you choose to use a product outside the
manufacturer's directions, you do so at your
own risk.
*************************************
•Diluting Iron-X @1:1? IMHO:
-It'll probably still work, but not as
"effieciently"; That is to say: More
than one diluted-application may
become necessary.
-It's even recommended to be applied
to a dry surface. (see below)
From CarPro's Website:
Directions:
A. Use outside or with sufficient ventilation.
B. Use latex or Nitrile gloves, and face protection.
C. If there is an inordinate amount of tree sap, tar,
other organic material, wax, or sealants on the vehicle
I recommend you strip them first with TarX so Iron X
can attack the ferrous particles without any interference.
This is not required but is how I like to do it for best results.
D. For best results apply to a mostly dry surface.
A few drops of water is ok.
********************************************
Bob
"Disclaimer"...that I've seen quite often:
•Always follow the manufacturer's directions.
-If you choose to use a product outside the
manufacturer's directions, you do so at your
own risk.
*************************************
•Diluting Iron-X @1:1? IMHO:
-It'll probably still work, but not as
"effieciently"; That is to say: More
than one diluted-application may
become necessary.
-It's even recommended to be applied
to a dry surface. (see below)
From CarPro's Website:
Directions:
A. Use outside or with sufficient ventilation.
B. Use latex or Nitrile gloves, and face protection.
C. If there is an inordinate amount of tree sap, tar,
other organic material, wax, or sealants on the vehicle
I recommend you strip them first with TarX so Iron X
can attack the ferrous particles without any interference.
This is not required but is how I like to do it for best results.
D. For best results apply to a mostly dry surface.
A few drops of water is ok.
********************************************
Bob
MarkD51
Active member
- Oct 15, 2012
- 3,130
- 0
The first time I ever used Iron-X, I had noticed that I was going through quite a lot of product and was quickly running out of a 500ml bottle on my SUV. Having never used the product before, I did not really know what to expect?
Other's mileage might vary, and no doubt for a smaller car, there's not quite as much area to cover, and thus a 500ml bottle I think should be adequate, to even do the wheels too as well.
I might imagine this question is being asked for perhaps a couple of reasons. First its cost, and to be a bit more thrifty and stretch the product, and/or not be wasteful.
I'm not sure where I got this idea from, perhaps from another user, or the carpro forum, but what I did, was had a small bucket of clean warm water, and a small soft kitchen sponge.
I wet the sponge and squeezed out excess water, and instead of trying to coat every little last square inch of paint with the product, I gave each panel or section a few healthy squirts, then spread the product with the dampened sponge.
I think this helped two-fold, in that I was able to use slightly less product, and it also seemed to help with getting even coverage, and that the product was not drying so quickly after application. As I went around the vehicle, I periodically rinsed and again squeezed out the sponge and continued on.
The main application trick is to apply quickly, but completely, then step back for a few minutes and let the product work. Best to choose a calm day, no wind, and definitely in the shade.
Whether my methods are orthodox, and acceptable, I am not entirely sure, but it seemed that my method didn't adversely diminish the product's effectiveness.
For those with large vehicles, or perhaps wishing to treat 2 smaller cars, I'd probably advise to at least spring for a liter bottle.
Other's mileage might vary, and no doubt for a smaller car, there's not quite as much area to cover, and thus a 500ml bottle I think should be adequate, to even do the wheels too as well.
I might imagine this question is being asked for perhaps a couple of reasons. First its cost, and to be a bit more thrifty and stretch the product, and/or not be wasteful.
I'm not sure where I got this idea from, perhaps from another user, or the carpro forum, but what I did, was had a small bucket of clean warm water, and a small soft kitchen sponge.
I wet the sponge and squeezed out excess water, and instead of trying to coat every little last square inch of paint with the product, I gave each panel or section a few healthy squirts, then spread the product with the dampened sponge.
I think this helped two-fold, in that I was able to use slightly less product, and it also seemed to help with getting even coverage, and that the product was not drying so quickly after application. As I went around the vehicle, I periodically rinsed and again squeezed out the sponge and continued on.
The main application trick is to apply quickly, but completely, then step back for a few minutes and let the product work. Best to choose a calm day, no wind, and definitely in the shade.
Whether my methods are orthodox, and acceptable, I am not entirely sure, but it seemed that my method didn't adversely diminish the product's effectiveness.
For those with large vehicles, or perhaps wishing to treat 2 smaller cars, I'd probably advise to at least spring for a liter bottle.