Is iron X really needed?

lalojamesliz

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I recently freshened up my 2014 Avalon with a flex 3401 and menzerna fg400 and 3500 but no iron X. It came out great and I removed almost every paint defect besides deep scratches.
Is that stinky stuff really needed? I'm just trying to decide because I'm doing my black Toyota sequoia next.
Thanks guys
 
I think so depending on how clean you want the paint. The IronX sort of dissolves things in the paint not on the paint. The idea is to allow as much light as possible to reflect back to the eye. When you clay and use a product like iron X it just pulls that much more dirt out of the paint to allow for more light to reflect the surrounding for a better shine.

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I personally use Iron-X before claying step.Worth it..
 
Half my forum work is simply remembering what I've already wrote and then the key words to type into Skynet to find it...


Here you go....


The Car Insurance Analogy for using an Iron Remover by Mike Phillips


Car_Insurance_01.jpg
Car_Insurance_02.jpg



An iron remover is one of those products you want to use but you don't actually want it to work - Mike Phillips


Using an iron remover is like buying car insurance, you want to have it but you don't really want to use it because that means you were in an accident and this is never any fun. That said, it's important to have car insurance for financial, physical and emotional peace of mind just in case you are involved in an accident.

When you use an iron remover, you don't actually want to see iron contamination via the very visual bleeding-effect as this means your car's exterior is contaminated. Contamination means deterioration has been taking place. That's never a good thing and especially considering how thin clearcoat layer of paint is from the factory.

Like having car insurance, it's a good idea to use an iron remover on your car's exterior, but like car insurance, you really don't have to use it or in the case of an iron remover you don't actually want to see any color changing or bleed-effect take place as this would mean your car's exterior is not contaminated.

It would be better to see nothing and have peace of mind. The price of the iron remover is a minimal compared to knowing your paint was not contaminated.

If you do see the color changing or bleeding effect, then you have peace of mind knowing the contamination has been removed and the deterioration has been stopped.


The only way to really know if your car is contaminated is to use some insurance i.e. use an iron remover...

800_2000_Camaro_SS_024.jpg





Car Insurance on Autogeek.com


SONAX Fallout Cleaner

Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller Iron Remover 500 ml

Dodo Juice Supernatural Ferro Lube 500 ml

Britemax Iron Max Iron Remover

Griots Garage Iron & Fallout Remover

McKee’s 37 Xtreme Iron Remover

Optimum FerreX Iron Remover 17 oz

GYEON Q2M Iron Remover - 500 ml

CarPro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml

CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent 500 ml

CarPro TRIX Tar and Iron Remover 1 Liter



:)


:)
 
I generally always use some kinda Iron Remover but, aside from one vehicle, rarely get any of the fantastic-icle bleeding everyone shows in pictures. And I live in NE Ohio, a place where our river caught fire in the 70's and they still require emissions testing due to poor air quality. One would think this would be a prime area for industrial fallout/contamination. CarPro Iron-X, Gyeon Iron, Sonax Fallout Remover...none give me the visual entertainment I see from some folks. *sigh*

I feel cheated...
 
Thanks for the answers guys. I'm convinced :)

I bought my car when it was 2 years old. I could actually see the pits and pot marks in the hood starting to turn orange in the sunlight. The Iron remover got rid of it in 1 treatment is
 
I generally always use some kinda Iron Remover but, aside from one vehicle, rarely get any of the fantastic-icle bleeding everyone shows in pictures. And I live in NE Ohio, a place where our river caught fire in the 70's and they still require emissions testing due to poor air quality. One would think this would be a prime area for industrial fallout/contamination. CarPro Iron-X, Gyeon Iron, Sonax Fallout Remover...none give me the visual entertainment I see from some folks. *sigh*

I feel cheated...

This is exactly my experience also. Even so, I would not skip the Iron remover step - especially if I am going to apply a ceramic coating to the vehicle. Makes good sense to consider it "insurance" as Mike points out...
 
This is exactly my experience also. Even so, I would not skip the Iron remover step - especially if I am going to apply a ceramic coating to the vehicle. Makes good sense to consider it "insurance" as Mike points out...

Anybody ever find a good pump-type sprayer that'll make application quick and easy? I've tried the Kwazar ( Kwazar Venus Super HD Compression Sprayer ) but the Iron removers are too thick to spray effectively.
 
I have never had a reaction on my paint with iron x. Wheels, yes. Paint. No. I don't think it has any effect on non ferrous particles.
 
Of course, Mike summarized the official position of the benefits of an iron remover perfectly. My take includes the consideration of long term effects of keeping metallic bits at bay. I occasionally get light colored daily driven vehicles with little bits of brown rust spots from what I can only assume are metal pieces eroding and rusting. I like to use Iron X frequently to prevent this from happening.
 
My wife’s new car has a bunch of “rust” spots all over the car. It’s blizzard pearl color. So easy to see. Makes me mad as I coated it last fall. I have ironX. My question is? will it harm my ceramic coating? I have a couple customer cars having the same spotting. All have ceramic coatings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My wife’s new car has a bunch of “rust” spots all over the car. It’s blizzard pearl color. So easy to see. Makes me mad as I coated it last fall. I have ironX. My question is? will it harm my ceramic coating? I have a couple customer cars having the same spotting. All have ceramic coatings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The coating covered the particles. You likely won't be able to get them unless you remove the coating first.
 
Car was brand new when I coated it. I did decontaminate the paint before coating. Reset, IronX, then 2 stage polish with carpro eraser used to clean. 1 month old car at the time.
 
After reading these posts I feel better that I am not wasting my time.
I have never had a reaction with IronX except on the inside of wheels.
I was going to give it up until I read this, Thanks!
 
After reading these posts I feel better that I am not wasting my time.

I have never had a reaction with IronX except on the inside of wheels.

I was going to give it up until I read this, Thanks!


Just curios.... was it the explanation in this article that helped?

The Car Insurance Analogy for using an Iron Remover by Mike Phillips


Car_Insurance_01.jpg
Car_Insurance_02.jpg



An iron remover is one of those products you want to use but you don't actually want it to work - Mike Phillips


Using an iron remover is like buying car insurance, you want to have it but you don't really want to use it because that means you were in an accident and this is never any fun. That said, it's important to have car insurance for financial, physical and emotional peace of mind just in case you are involved in an accident.

When you use an iron remover, you don't actually want to see iron contamination via the very visual bleeding-effect as this means your car's exterior is contaminated. Contamination means deterioration has been taking place. That's never a good thing and especially considering how thin clearcoat layer of paint is from the factory.

Like having car insurance, it's a good idea to use an iron remover on your car's exterior, but like car insurance, you really don't have to use it or in the case of an iron remover you don't actually want to see any color changing or bleed-effect take place as this would mean your car's exterior is not contaminated.

It would be better to see nothing and have peace of mind. The price of the iron remover is a minimal compared to knowing your paint was not contaminated.

If you do see the color changing or bleeding effect, then you have peace of mind knowing the contamination has been removed and the deterioration has been stopped.


The only way to really know if your car is contaminated is to use some insurance i.e. use an iron remover...

800_2000_Camaro_SS_024.jpg



:)
 
Another concept I have come to understand is the frequency of decontaminating with Iron X. Some people like to think of it as a one and done type of product and I disagree. We seem to pick up metallic bits just from everyday driving. Brake dust coming off the rotors is one thing but I believe there's more exposure to "flying metal dust" in everyday driving.

I use my wife's car to tell me when to use it again. Her car is white and mine is black. I've experimented with Iron X on hers and have found a quarterly decon with it is my favorite schedule i.e. after about 6-8 washes. As Mike's post says, "like insurance, you don't want to see it working" and I find some faint, limited areas of purple about every 3 months takes care of what I can see building up.

Some folks may even go so far as every wash but 2 reasons I don't...cost and I'm not too sure of LSP degradation with it.

Just my thoughts, gang.
 
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