I searched and found a couple of threads Mike started on types of water spots but these look like they may be different and have no feel to them at all with my finger. Also, these threads I found by Mike had some example/before pics but no after pics........
I have before and after pictures of somewhere but just to note, if a person is successful at actually removing the defect then it's hard to take a picture of nothing.
If you look at most of my camera work though I try very hard to "frame" up pictures to give a person a real good idea of where the defects are via body lines windows, mirrors, air scoops, etc so then when I do post the after picture you can verify from the how the pictures are framed up that you are indeed looking at the same areas.
Great examples here,
Autogeek Portfolio: Cars I've worked on since coming to Autogeek
I have this type of spot on a 96 BMW. I have hit it with clay followed by a PCXP with orange pad and M105 followed by white pad and M205 followed by p21s paintwork cleanser on a black. Had no luck at all. Again I cant feel any detent with my fingers or fingernails.
What should I do?
A lot of times you can remove isolated defects like these using just your fingers and a a compound safe to use by hand, the reason for this is because you can EXERT a lot of pressure to the area using only a couple of fingers pushing down on an applicator pad to focus abrading to a small area.
IF you have water spots or any other below surface defects that the PC isn't removing then it could be you need a more powerful tool like a rotary buffer.
yup, water spot it is. hit it with some 1500 then 2000 then compound/polish and bye bye
The clear layer of a factory paint job averages around 2 mils thin so if anyone is going to do any sanding it's a real good idea to have a little experience PLUS the right tools for removing your sanding marks afterwards.
Sanding is easy, that's putting scratches into the paint, the trick part is getting 100% of them out while not causing damage during the process.
To do this it's a good idea to have some very high quality sanding papers, called finishing papers or sanding or finishing discs. Then you'll need a good quality compound, a wool pad and a rotary buffer. You can use DA Polishers to remove sanding marks also but it will take longer.
Hey thanks for taking the time to add some of my articles to this thread to help out another forum member, all my articles have titles that are also blue, clickable links and you can also copy and paste these titles also.
How-To Articles
The last article you included is a very in-depth explanation of the term wetsanding and it really makes it clear what this process is all about and where it's done the most at and that' body shops on custom or re-paints, not factory paint.
One thing for sure, anyone that's ever sanded and buffed and accidentally buffed through the clear coat to expose the basecoat knows all to well the heart sinking feeling that ensues.
:xyxthumbs:
