Jumping back into the detailing game . . . . need some guidance

[Robopredinator]

It's been awhile since my last detail - around 5 years - and I'm overwhelmed with the new products out there and frustrated with Menzerna's revisions. I'm looking to detail my girlfriend's '15 Mazda CX-5 and need some guidance with product selection. I am familiar with the M105/M205 and the Menzerna IP. Thank God the M105/M205 is still kicking around as a tried and true go-to combo but I'd like to experiment with Menzerna's lineup.

Car is in great condition with faint spider-webbing and I'm liking what I'm reading about the SF3800 for its finishing "pop" as opposed to the SF3500 despite the less aggressive cut. Would it be silly to pick up a M205 to go with the SF3800, in case I need something a little more aggressive on more stubborn paint defects? I will have to pick up some M105 already because I'm filling in some paint chips and scratches that I'll be finishing up with a wetsand. Is the SF3800 too far of a jump from the M105? Would the SF3800 on a orange or yellow pad give me some middle ground cut?

If I wasn't too concerned with a finishing "pop", I'd just go the M105/M205 route. Any advice?

 

[SKorch630]

If car is in great condition, why not something like an AIO? HDSpeed or McKee's 37 would work perfectly with an orange pad.

 

[Desertnate]

If the paint is similar to my '10 Mazda3, you won't need 105. I use Meguiars Ultimate Polish on our Mazda and even with a few modest swirls from washing and snow removal, everything comes out rather easily.

If your starting from scratch, I'd look at the McKee's 37 line or HD. Great bang-for-the-buck buy all accounts here. It's the direction I'll be going once my UP bottle runs out.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I'm liking what I'm reading about the SF3800 for its finishing "pop" as opposed to the SF3500 despite the less aggressive cut.

Son of a gun, when it was PO106FF/PO85RD and SF4000/SF4500, and maybe even when it was first SF3500/SF3800, the gloss was rated the same for both. Now I see the SF3800 gloss is "10+" and the SF3500 is 9--when did that happen? Was there actually a product change or just a "chart" change?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

It's been awhile since my last detail - around 5 years -

Since this is your first post - at least under this account...


Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:

and I'm overwhelmed with the new products out there and frustrated with Menzerna's revisions.

The only way to stay caught up is to frequent this forum. As for Menzerna? If it ain't broke don't fix it. Or like my wife says about me,

"If it ain't broke fix it till it is"

I'm looking to detail my girlfriend's '15 Mazda CX-5 and need some guidance with product selection. I am familiar with the M105/M205 and the Menzerna IP. Thank God the M105/M205 is still kicking around as a tried and true go-to combo but I'd like to experiment with Menzerna's lineup.


Car is in great condition with faint spider-webbing and I'm liking what I'm reading about the SF3800 for its finishing "pop" as opposed to the SF3500 despite the less aggressive cut. Would it be silly to pick up a M205 to go with the SF3800, in case I need something a little more aggressive on more stubborn paint defects? I will have to pick up some M105 already because I'm filling in some paint chips and scratches that I'll be finishing up with a wetsand. Is the SF3800 too far of a jump from the M105? Would the SF3800 on a orange or yellow pad give me some middle ground cut?

If I wasn't too concerned with a finishing "pop", I'd just go the M105/M205 route. Any advice?

M205 is a fine cut polish.

I'd recommend getting these two products.


Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound, Fast Gloss 400, FG400 compound


Menzerna Nano Polish PO 106 FA, Menzerna Final Polish, Nano abrasives, finishing polish, professional polish

If the Super Finish doesn't get the job done then hit it with the Heavy Cut Compound and then follow with the Super Finish.

Then seal the paint and stick a fork in it and call it done.

 

[dlc95]

I love the two Mike picked out.

However, I do keep 2500 on hand - just in case. It's about middle between the heavy, and fine cut.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I love the two Mike picked out.

However, I do keep 2500 on hand - just in case. It's about middle between the heavy, and fine cut.

I agree.

And if the OP wants he could add that to the mix and then he would be good to go no matter what he's working on.

Add some Power Lock or his favorite wax or sealant and check-off compounds, polishes and waxes from his list.


Then it's time to get some new pads. I don't believe he mentioned what type of tools he has but regardless, in the last 5 years there's been lots of cool new pads introduced.

 

[Robopredinator]

If car is in great condition, why not something like an AIO? HDSpeed or McKee's 37 would work perfectly with an orange pad.

Haven't heard of those products. I'm sure they are great products but for right now - as to not overwhelm myself with the vast number of products - I'm looking at Menzerna or Meguiar's.

If the paint is similar to my '10 Mazda3, you won't need 105. I use Meguiars Ultimate Polish on our Mazda and even with a few modest swirls from washing and snow removal, everything comes out rather easily.

If your starting from scratch, I'd look at the McKee's 37 line or HD. Great bang-for-the-buck buy all accounts here. It's the direction I'll be going once my UP bottle runs out.

I'll need something aggressive for the paint chip/scratch repair + wetsand. Also, I didn't mention it but there is a "rash" from rubbing up against another car that I need to correct.

Son of a gun, when it was PO106FF/PO85RD and SF4000/SF4500, and maybe even when it was first SF3500/SF3800, the gloss was rated the same for both. Now I see the SF3800 gloss is "10+" and the SF3500 is 9--when did that happen? Was there actually a product change or just a "chart" change?

That's why I'm leaning towards that SF3800; That "+" rating has me intrigued. :laughing:

M205 is a fine cut polish.

I'd recommend getting these two products.


Menzerna Heavy Cut Compound, Fast Gloss 400, FG400 compound


Menzerna Nano Polish PO 106 FA, Menzerna Final Polish, Nano abrasives, finishing polish, professional polish

If the Super Finish doesn't get the job done then hit it with the Heavy Cut Compound and then follow with the Super Finish.

Then seal the paint and stick a fork in it and call it done.

Thanks for the greetings and recommendations. :xyxthumbs:

Despite the finishing gloss of 9 for the SF3500 and 10+ for the SF3800, would you still recommend the SF3500 if I'm concerned with a jeweling finish? Would you say the difference in negligible?

Also, how far would 8 oz. bottles get me?

I love the two Mike picked out.

However, I do keep 2500 on hand - just in case. It's about middle between the heavy, and fine cut.

I like the idea of FG400, MC2500 and SF3800. If I were to go with just the FG400 and SF3800, could I substitute the MC2500 for the SF3800 on a more aggressive pad?

I agree.

And if the OP wants he could add that to the mix and then he would be good to go no matter what he's working on.

Add some Power Lock or his favorite wax or sealant and check-off compounds, polishes and waxes from his list.


Then it's time to get some new pads. I don't believe he mentioned what type of tools he has but regardless, in the last 5 years there's been lots of cool new pads introduced.

I'm working with a PC7424 and I'm only familiar with LC pads. I need new pads so what would you recommend? Oh and what waxes would you recommend for a dark grey and black vehicle?

 

[Zubair]

I was gona recommend FG400 and SF3500 but Mike beat me to it. You will hardly notice the gloss difference between 3500 and 3800 on modern clear coats.

PS. FG400 finishes incredibly well on its own.

 

[Robopredinator]

I'm going to pull the trigger on the FG400 and SF3500. Thanks guys.

Another question though: I'll be trying the Collinite 845; Would I be good to go with just this product as a sealant? Or would you still recommend a sealant and topping off with the 845? I'm thinking about the Menzerna Power Lock + 845.

 

[austinz]

Frankly you could top with either 845 or PL.

 

[Robopredinator]

I've been at this for a couple hours now - I'm maxed out on information! So PL isn't ideal for metallic flake I'm reading? Forgot to throw the Blackfire WD into the mix.

 

[AZpolisher15]

I was gona recommend FG400 and SF3500 but Mike beat me to it. You will hardly notice the gloss difference between 3500 and 3800 on modern clear coats.

PS. FG400 finishes incredibly well on its own.

For what it's worth... When I was deciding between 3500 and 3800 a couple months back, if I remember correctly, a few said the 3500 is slightly newer technology and that's why it was recommended over the 3800. Less dusting, perhaps? I can't remember the specifics, but I think it's a more modern product.

 

[AZpolisher15]

I've been at this for a couple hours now - I'm maxed out on information! So PL isn't ideal for metallic flake I'm reading? Forgot to throw the Blackfire WD into the mix.

PL and 845 are both stellar products and either would serve you well on its own. I love them both- mostly for their longevity. Phenomenal beading with the 845. I have metallic flake in my "pyrite mica" Toyota and the 845 darkens the paint slightly more than the PL. It also brings out the flake a little more. That said- I prefer the more glassy look of the PL on my vehicle, but that's totally subjective. On black I prefer the 845. Honestly, i don't think you'd be disappointed with either.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I'm working with a PC7424 and I'm only familiar with LC pads.

I need new pads so what would you recommend?

If you're confident in your machine buffing skills then I'd recommend super thin foam pads like I show in the article below. All three brands are top notch and LC offers the widest selection. Stick with the orange cutting pads for your most aggressive pad in the LC and Griot's lines. The gray pad in the LC line and the white pad in the Griot's line are both very aggressive and my opinion is they should only be used as the last option for defect removal.


All the pads shown in the below article are 5.5" inches in diameter and you'll want to use a 5" backing plate with 5.5" pads.

5.5" SUPER THIN FOAM PAD OPTIONS for your Dual Action Polisher


Super thin 5.5" foam buffing pads

If you want stay on the safer side of buffing then stick with the 5.5" Lake Country flat foam pads. They're only a tick thicker than the ThinPro super thin pads but the extra foam provides a little more cushion and in my opinion a little more safety margin than super thin pads.


Check out this thread, read through the entire thing, lots of in and links to other articles and products on the AG Store



Video: Mark your backing plate to make it easy to see pad rotation

Oh and what waxes would you recommend for a dark grey and black vehicle?

If you're going to be compounding and polishing the paint first on your vehicles then you don't need a cleaner/wax or AIO so go with a non-cleaning wax or non-cleaning sealant.

In my opinion the best wax is the wax you'll use often because you like how it applies, you like how it wipes off and you like how it makes your paint look. It's important to choose a wax or sealant that matches how you use your vehicle. If your cars are parked in garages most of the time then you can use non-cleaning wax or sealant. If your cars are parked outside most of the time, both at home and at work for example, then the paint is going to get dirty. It's just a natural process.


I show a lot of the car guys here in Stuart the Pinnacle Liquid Souveran because it goes on easy, wipes off super easy and leaves the paint looking amazing and slick. Once you get your paint to where you like it then it's very fast and easy to simply machine apply the liquid Souveran over the car to give it the "just waxed look" without requiring much energy from you because it wipes off so easy.


If you're cars are parked outside all the time like my truck, then you want to cleaner/wax as a good cleaner/wax will remove any build up of road film while making your paint look great. Check out the McKee's 37 Jewelling Wax. I use it on my daily driver.

 

[Zubair]

For what it's worth... When I was deciding between 3500 and 3800 a couple months back, if I remember correctly, a few said the 3500 is slightly newer technology and that's why it was recommended over the 3800. Less dusting, perhaps? I can't remember the specifics, but I think it's a more modern product.

3500 is as glossy as 3800, however it just gets there faster.
845 will have a deeper wetter look in comparison to the clear coat look of Powerlock.