Just Wet Sanded have a bunch of swirl marks.

[benga]

I'm fairly new to detailing and all, I usually just polish and wax my car after washing it. Never really did wetsanding or compounding.

Today though, it was a day to myself and I just wanted to work on the car and see if I could do anything.
So I went to the auto shop and bought.

1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 1500 Grit
1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 2000 Grit
1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 3000 Grit

I bought a soft pad to help me use the paper as well.

My test area is the trunk lid, easy area to work with flat and single panel.

I start sanding it starting from lowest(coarse) grit all the way to fine grit. When I finished I got my DA and applied some Meguiars Fine Cut Finish with a Black Pad
Meguiars Ultimate Polish Black Pad
Meguiars Wax Black Pad

All different pads

It looked real smooth and like a mirror then when i took it out of the garage and into the sun it just had a crap load of swirl/cobweb when you looked at where the light was hitting it.

I was like god dammit the purpose was to get rid of those and the deeper scratches and I failed at the swirl marks, the deeper ones went away.

Overall Question: What did I do wrong?
How can I get rid of the marks?

I have 6 different pads right now, Red/Brown, Orange, Green, Blue, Black, and Wool Pads.

I'm pretty open to get any new compounds, wax, polish and all.

Please don't get mad at me for asking what must be a very common question "How do I get rid of swirl marks?"
My bigger concern is to learn from my mistake of what I did wrong.
I'm going to be spending a lot of time to learn how to get rid of the marks from other threads.

 

[Evan.J]

Ok well first off I hope this is not a factory clear coat as factory clear coats are very thin and should not be wet sanded. Wet sanding should be used as a last resort in terms of removing defects. Its always best to do a test spot a start with the least aggressive method and move your way up from there. You want to preserve as much clear coat as possible. Once you go through the clear coat you will need a repaint.

When wet sanding you should make sure that the paint is clean a free of any contamination first off. When sanding you need to be going in one direction at all times. You need to keep the paper clean a free of any clear coat build up. You need to make sure you are using lots of lubrication when wet sanding.

To remove sanding marks you need to have something aggressive like a wool pad and a rotary polisher and a compound like Meguiars M105. In todays world you can remove 3000 grit sanding marks with a DA and the Meguiars Microfiber Cutting discs and D300 compound. What you have is no where near aggressive enough to take those out.

My suggestion is this Get your self the Microfiber correction kit and try the cutting discs and the D300 to remove the sanding marks and all over defects. I hope that you did not strike though the clear coat and cause yourself a problem.

Please if you can upload some photos of the area you are working on and please do not wet sand any more paint to avoid any further problems.

Wet sanding is a very advance technique that should be practiced on a junk panel and not something that you love like your car.

Here are some threads on wet sanding:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...6278-wetsanding-colorsanding-dampsanding.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-wetsanding-fresh-paint-vs-factory-paint.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...fing/21974-basic-hand-sanding-techniques.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...sanding-straightlines-crosshatch-pattern.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...g-will-half-sheet-wet-dry-sandpaper-last.html

[video=youtube_share;p0kWtulPFxw&list=PLf9SO3pQlzJ8pCYEhZ7YbZxR4kVhDXW02&index=1"]Helping in the Heartland - Part 1 The Transformation - YouTube[/video]
Scroll to the 10 min mark. Mike gives a very in-depth how to on hand sanding.

 

[Rsurfer]

What kind of polisher do you have? You will need a more aggressive compound (Meg's 101/105) to get rid of the #3000 sanding marks. Ultimate Compound (otc) might do it and finish down with a finishing polish.

 

[benga]

Ok well first off I hope this is not a factory clear coat as factory clear coats are very thin and should not be wet sanded. Wet sanding should be used as a last resort in terms of removing defects. Its always best to do a test spot a start with the least aggressive method and move your way up from there. You want to preserve as much clear coat as possible. Once you go through the clear coat you will need a repaint.

When wet sanding you should make sure that the paint is clean a free of any contamination first off. When sanding you need to be going in one direction at all times. You need to keep the paper clean a free of any clear coat build up. You need to make sure you are using lots of lubrication when wet sanding.

To remove sanding marks you need to have something aggressive like a wool pad and a rotary polisher and a compound like Meguiars M105. In todays world you can remove 3000 grit sanding marks with a DA and the Meguiars Microfiber Cutting discs and D300 compound. What you have is no where near aggressive enough to take those out.

My suggestion is this Get your self the Microfiber correction kit and try the cutting discs and the D300 to remove the sanding marks and all over defects. I hope that you did not strike though the clear coat and cause yourself a problem.

Please if you can upload some photos of the area you are working on and please do not wet sand any more paint to avoid any further problems.

Wet sanding is a very advance technique that should be practiced on a junk panel and not something that you love like your car.

Here are some threads on wet sanding:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...6278-wetsanding-colorsanding-dampsanding.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...-wetsanding-fresh-paint-vs-factory-paint.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...fing/21974-basic-hand-sanding-techniques.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...sanding-straightlines-crosshatch-pattern.html

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...g-will-half-sheet-wet-dry-sandpaper-last.html

Helping in the Heartland - Part 1 The Transformation - YouTube
Scroll to the 10 min mark. Mike gives a very in-depth how to on hand sanding.

So bad news is, it was a factory coat, the cars never been repainted so there's no reason to believe there would be a more recent clear coat.
I'm not sure if I cut through the clear coat maybe the images can help someone with more knowledge determine if I did or not.
When I went at it for a little bit with the wool cloth there wasn't any color transfer.

The whole sanding process was North to South strokes only.

I went to wet sanding because of the stuff i've seen other people do. It worked because it took out some of my deeper scratches or at least made them less visible.

I had trouble catching the swirls, just couldn't really do it. If you don't try and look at the swirls then it looks good but to someone with a keen close eye it's noticable.

So I'm looking at a kit like this? Meguiar's 6" DA Microfiber Correction System Kit
Amazon.com: Meguiar's 6" DA Microfiber Correction System Kit: Automotive

Image Gallery: Car - Imgur

Pic(the top with the tail light is untouched): http://i.imgur.com/BqzvTlE.jpg
In this the right is untouched: http://i.imgur.com/iGVDx8i.jpg
Don't look at the very tip of the trunk that's been like that for years: http://i.imgur.com/IBQdtkb.jpg

 

[Evan.J]

I think the Microfiber kit will be fine and you can then attack the rest of the car with it as well and remove heavy defects.

Now there will be some RIDS (Random Isolated Deeper Scratches) that will remain and you just have to learn to live with them. Thats the unfortunate part of factory clear coats but at the same time it is a daily driver so if you can get 85-90% correction then thats great.

 

[RedXray]

As other have posted you need a more aggressive cut. That black pad just doesn't have the cut needed for #3000... even on a non oem soft clear.

 

[benga]

I think the Microfiber kit will be fine and you can then attack the rest of the car with it as well and remove heavy defects.

Now there will be some RIDS (Random Isolated Deeper Scratches) that will remain and you just have to learn to live with them. Thats the unfortunate part of factory clear coats but at the same time it is a daily driver so if you can get 85-90% correction then thats great.

Yea I was going to look for some touch up paint but there's no dealer ship near me.

I'll look into the kit, nothing is ever perfect, I can only get so close and i'll be happy with it.

Thanks for you help and everyone else that posted, I might not have replied to you guys but I still read your posts and used the info

 

[benga]

I think the Microfiber kit will be fine and you can then attack the rest of the car with it as well and remove heavy defects.

Now there will be some RIDS (Random Isolated Deeper Scratches) that will remain and you just have to learn to live with them. Thats the unfortunate part of factory clear coats but at the same time it is a daily driver so if you can get 85-90% correction then thats great.

One more quick question. My Volvo, the one I wet sanded has a lot of "orange peel" on the panels. Is there anything I can do about that? I dont think the correction kit would do anything about it right?

 

[Evan.J]

One more quick question. My Volvo, the one I wet sanded has a lot of "orange peel" on the panels. Is there anything I can do about that? I dont think the correction kit would do anything about it right?

Correct. Your best option is to live with it unfortunately. We all hate orange peel but again when dealing with the factory clear there is just too much risk involved.

There are things like CarPros denim pads that remove orate peel but again those are still best left to repainted car as well.

 

[BillE]

benga...

Where are you located? Maybe a member is close by and can lend ya a hand.

Bill

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I'm fairly new to detailing and all, I usually just polish and wax my car after washing it. Never really did wetsanding or compounding.

Today though, it was a day to myself and I just wanted to work on the car and see if I could do anything.
So I went to the auto shop and bought.

1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 1500 Grit
1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 2000 Grit
1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 3000 Grit

I bought a soft pad to help me use the paper as well.

My test area is the trunk lid, easy area to work with flat and single panel.

I start sanding it starting from lowest(coarse) grit all the way to fine grit.


When I finished I got my DA and applied some Meguiars Fine Cut Finish with a Black

Man I love a guy the dives in head first!

If nothing else this will be a great learning experience.

You've already received a TON of great information from our stellar members and I have nothing to add to this but work slow and methodical and if you're lucky, you'll bed able to remove the sanding marks without going through the clear.

For what it's worth, I have sanded factory clears starting at #1500 and then re-sanded with #3000 and then polished all the way out without burning or striking through the clear coat.

Hard to believe this is going on 4 years ago. This was when the Meguiar's Unigrit Discs were first introduced and I believe this was the first class on how to use them open to the public.

Pictures from Mobile Tech Expo 2010


I wonder how the demo car is holding up today? :laughing:

One more quick question. My Volvo, the one I wet sanded has a lot of "orange peel" on the panels. Is there anything I can do about that? I don't think the correction kit would do anything about it right?

As other's said, get the CarPro Denim Pads, this is a much safer approach for factory clear paint than wetsanding...

How to remove Orange Peel using a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher


CarPro Denim Orange Peel Removal Pad – 5.25 Inches 2 Pack

 

[benga]

Man I love a guy the dives in head first!

If nothing else this will be a great learning experience.

You've already received a TON of great information from our stellar members and I have nothing to add to this but work slow and methodical and if you're lucky, you'll bed able to remove the sanding marks without going through the clear.

For what it's worth, I have sanded factory clears starting at #1500 and then re-sanded with #3000 and then polished all the way out without burning or striking through the clear coat.

Hard to believe this is going on 4 years ago. This was when the Meguiar's Unigrit Discs were first introduced and I believe this was the first class on how to use them open to the public.

Pictures from Mobile Tech Expo 2010


I wonder how the demo car is holding up today? :laughing:

As other's said, get the CarPro Denim Pads, this is a much safer approach for factory clear paint than wetsanding...

How to remove Orange Peel using a Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher


CarPro Denim Orange Peel Removal Pad – 5.25 Inches 2 Pack

Well I'm testing it on this car as apposed to the black one since everything shows on black haha.
But yea I'm in the learning phase so it's mostly trial and error and i'm not beating myself up over mistakes just trying to analyze the situation to improve next time.

Thanks for all the info and links, i'm going to pick up some more gear for the car hopefully fix it up and get rid of some of that orange peel.

The forum is awesome haha and it's members are very helpful.
Much appreciated

 

[MirrorFinish]

I've wet sanded lots of cars to remove orange peel and never had a problem on factory paint. I only use 2000 grit not 1500 grit. Then 2500 and 3000. Quick polish with 105 on wool then finish with 205.

If your removing swirls then you will be taking say 10um off the car anyway I took 12um off my sorento total including wet sanding.

 

[stilltipping3]

I'm fairly new to detailing and all, I usually just polish and wax my car after washing it. Never really did wetsanding or compounding.

Today though, it was a day to myself and I just wanted to work on the car and see if I could do anything.
So I went to the auto shop and bought.

1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 1500 Grit
1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 2000 Grit
1x 3M Wet Or Dry Sandpaper 3000 Grit

I bought a soft pad to help me use the paper as well.

My test area is the trunk lid, easy area to work with flat and single panel.

I start sanding it starting from lowest(coarse) grit all the way to fine grit. When I finished I got my DA and applied some Meguiars Fine Cut Finish with a Black Pad
Meguiars Ultimate Polish Black Pad
Meguiars Wax Black Pad

All different pads

It looked real smooth and like a mirror then when i took it out of the garage and into the sun it just had a crap load of swirl/cobweb when you looked at where the light was hitting it.

I was like god dammit the purpose was to get rid of those and the deeper scratches and I failed at the swirl marks, the deeper ones went away.

Overall Question: What did I do wrong?
How can I get rid of the marks?

I have 6 different pads right now, Red/Brown, Orange, Green, Blue, Black, and Wool Pads.

I'm pretty open to get any new compounds, wax, polish and all.

Please don't get mad at me for asking what must be a very common question "How do I get rid of swirl marks?"
My bigger concern is to learn from my mistake of what I did wrong.
I'm going to be spending a lot of time to learn how to get rid of the marks from other threads.

U need to use Megs 105 followed by 205 then seal n wax. Take ur time.

 

[Willy Wang]

benga, are you cleaning the area between each level of grit? i think it is crucial make sure to clean it thoroughly after each level of sandpaper. why? when you sand down with 1500 grit, there are essentially 1500 grit sized shards of your clear coat. if this is not removed, once you get into it with the 2000 grit, you will not only be sanding with 2000 grit, you will also be creating RIDS with the rogue shards left over from your previous grit sanding. another thing to be aware of is to wash out your sand paper once it gets clogged with clear coat. rinsing in a bucket may not be enough to dislodge clear coat particles stuck to your sandpaper. i find it best to use a spray and spray directly onto the sandpaper to blast out those particles, followed by a rinse in a bucket.