Klasse AIO first time user questions - new forum member

[bowtieman81]

Hello all,

New member here and first time user of Klasse all in one. I just bought a black 2011 GMC truck that I am wanting to get cleaned up and take care of it the right way. Thanks to this forum I bought the Klasse twins and intend on using them to clean and protect my truck for the upcoming winter season.

I first used a Meguiars smooth surface clay kit on the truck, which worked well for me. It left my paint noticeably smoother. Now today I used the AIO for the first time and I have a couple questions. First up is the amount of dirt/crud that I am collecting on the microfiber applicators. Below is a picture of a new applicator and one that I used just on the hood. It seems quite dirty to me after only doing the hood. Should I be concerned about this? Should I rotate applicators quite a bit? I guess I thought since I clayed the truck that it got most of the crud off the paint. Please let me know if this is normal.

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Now my second question. After putting a coat (by hand) of the Klasse AIO on I can still see some scratches and surface imperfections. I have lots of RIDS and what looks like some type 1 and 2 water spots. I am not seeking a show car quality detailing for my truck, but if I can get some of the scratches out it would be nice. My understanding is that Klasse is a fairly mild paint cleaner, but I have also read it can take out some surface imperfections. So my question is should I put another coat of AIO on to try and get more of the scratches out, or am I really needing to use a real polish or compound? I should also say that none of the scratches on my truck can be felt with a fingernail. Below are a couple pics of the scratches, sorry for the low quality.

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Thanks for the help.
Pete

 

[andrew b]

Looks like a tinted glaze or tinted wax was used, and that's what the AIO is cleaning off. Dealers will frequently use those to hide paint imperfections. The glazes will hold up to a few washings, but the AIO will strip them right off and that's what you're seeing on the pad. Just rinse the pads out (soak with clean water and squeeze them out, AIO works well applied with a slightly damp - but not wet - pad) periodically and keep going. As long as it's just "coloring" the pad, and it isn't actual grit that might scratch thepaint further, you're ok.

AIO is isn't going to touch those paint imperfections, you're going to need to compound and polish those out. If you don't have anything on hand, and want to go with something you can get locally, I recommend Meguiar's Ultimate Compound along with their Ultimate Polish. You can try the polish first, if it doesn't work go to the compound. You can find both locally pretty easily (think: Wal-mart) for roughly under $20 (total for both), and they work well applied by hand. If you need the compound (and looking at your photos, I think you will, but you can never tell), the polish will take out any marring left by the compound and finishes nicely for a fresh coat of AIO and then KSG. You can also use them in a "spot" fashion if you just want to hit the more visible problem areas first.

 

[bowtieman81]

Thanks for the help Andrew.

Your reply gave me a couple more questions to ask. First, thanks for the tip about the tinted glaze. I would not be surprised if the dealership did that to this truck. Since the Klasse AIO is removing that tinted stuff should I go over the whole truck again with AIO to make sure all the dealer crap is gone?


My next questions are about getting rid of the scratches. I appreciate the advice on the Meguiars products. I may go locally for the stuff, but if I was going to order from the site would you recommend anything different?

Second, if I do go for a compound/polish is there any special way tricks to applying it or removing it?
Thanks again.

 

[andrew b]

Thanks for the help Andrew.

Your reply gave me a couple more questions to ask. First, thanks for the tip about the tinted glaze. I would not be surprised if the dealership did that to this truck. Since the Klasse AIO is removing that tinted stuff should I go over the whole truck again with AIO to make sure all the dealer crap is gone?

My answer depends on what you're planning to do with the scratches. If you have a lot of places that you have to cover, I'd probably hold off on the effort of doing the AIO over everything, since any polishing/compounding will remove it. if you just have a few spots, then I'd go ahead and do the AIO over the whole vehicle, especially since AIO is so easy to do in small spots by hand.

My next questions are about getting rid of the scratches. I appreciate the advice on the Meguiars products. I may go locally for the stuff, but if I was going to order from the site would you recommend anything different?

I'm guessing you don't have a DA polisher, and are working by hand. The Meguiars Ultimate pair are what I use when working by hand, or to spot fix something. Bang for the buck, I'd stick with them. Completely different story if you are going to invest in a DA. Even though many of the more boutique products will work by hand, I don't think they work any better (or as easily).

Second, if I do go for a compound/polish is there any special way tricks to applying it or removing it?
Thanks again.

Microfiber applicator like you are using, medium/firm pressure, go in straight lines (at an angle to any scratches, if possible, but looks like yours are kind of random). The idea is that you will be able to see any marring left by the compounding in the straight lines, then you can go at a perpendicular angle to that with the polish to make sure you get everything out. I will then typically finish with a random circular polishing, once I know I'm not leaving marring/swirl marks. Other than that, follow the instructions on the bottle, and always work from least aggressive to more aggresive, until you are achieving the results you want. You are doing that so far - you've discovered the AIO isn't getting you there, so next try the polish (which is mild), and if it works, then you finish it off with the AIO/KSG. if it doesn't, then go to to the compound, repeat until you get the results, and then polish and then AIO/KSG.

Again, it's hard to tell by the photos, but those RIDS might be hard to get by hand even with the Ultimate Compound, but try multiple passes and if that doesn't work, then come back and look for something even more aggressive that will work by hand.

 

[bowtieman81]

Thanks again.


You are correct in that I don't have a DA polisher. I would like to get one, but I see that most of the good ones that last cost upwards of $300, not including any pads. At the moment I don't have $400 to invest in a DA and pads. I plan to get one in the spring, but for now I am doing everything by hand.

I will head out tomorrow and see what I can find at the local stores. I will go for the polish first, then step up to the compound if needed. If that still doesn't do it I will probably just apply my Klasse twins and let it go until spring when I can afford a good DA.

 

[andrew b]

I'd get the compound as well as the polish, they're good to have on hand, especially with a black vehicle (I have one black, one dark blue). Reach for it all the time to fix small stuff.

Another option I just realized is the Mequiars XMT products, they also have great reviews but I haven't used them.

As far as a DA, you don't need to spend that much. There are multiple Porter Cable 7424 kits available from AG for at or under $200 that have everything you need. I still use the PC 7424 that I've had for 6 years and it's all I need. The PC 7424 is a solid classic that does a very good job. The one suggestion I'd make with it is to stick with 5 1/2" pads.

That package for $169 with the PC7424, a backing plate, and 4 pads would be all you need along with the Meguiars Ultimate or XMT products and your Klasse Twins. I'd probably go with a couple orange, a white, and a grey pad. I find I use the orange and the white the most, but that's going to depend on how hard your paint is. Grey will be soft enough for almost anything you are doing, and orange should be aggressive enough with a compound.

 

[ihaveacamaro]

with GM, you may need a yellow pad. GM clear is pretty hard.

 

[bowtieman81]

OK guys, quick update and a question. I found some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish out in town and bought them both. Like suggested I am trying the polish first. Honestly the polish is doing better than I thought it would at getting some of the scratches and swirls out. I would not say I am totally happy, but I am not sure I will truly get the results I want by hand. I am thinking I will go over the whole truck with just the polish and call it good until I can get a DA polisher.

Now for my question. It seems the Ulitmate polish is leaving a bit of haze. I am doing small sections and wiping off as soon as possible, but still getting some haze.

Am I doing something wrong in applying it?

How should I get rid of the haze?

Thanks.

Pete

 

[andrew b]

OK guys, quick update and a question. I found some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish out in town and bought them both. Like suggested I am trying the polish first. Honestly the polish is doing better than I thought it would at getting some of the scratches and swirls out. I would not say I am totally happy, but I am not sure I will truly get the results I want by hand. I am thinking I will go over the whole truck with just the polish and call it good until I can get a DA polisher.

Now for my question. It seems the Ulitmate polish is leaving a bit of haze. I am doing small sections and wiping off as soon as possible, but still getting some haze.

Am I doing something wrong in applying it?

How should I get rid of the haze?

Thanks.

Pete

Is it a haze in the paint surface itself or is it a haze like oil or something left over on the paint (i.e. if you move a MF towwel in one direction, does the haze "move" in the direction you're wiping)?

If it's a haze like an oil left on the paint, follow up by wiping the area down with a diluted isopropyl alcohol mix (odds are you might have some around the house). Make sure to check the concentration of the original (it varies) and then calculate what you need to make about a 15-20% IPA solution. So if your IPA in the bottle is 35%, you'd want to dilute it 1:1 to end up with a 17.5% solution.

This will remove the oils left behind by the polish. It also strips your wax/sealant, so make sure you protect any areas where you use it.

If it's haze in the paint finsih, could be caused by a few different things, but almost certainly you are leaving behind marring int he clearcoat.

First thing I'd try is using a foam applicator instead of the MF to apply it, and then buff with a good, soft MF. That should do it.

If that doesn't do it, you might have really soft clearcoat, in which case you'll need a less aggressive final polish. But this seems unlikely, since the Ultimate Polish is pretty mild. I suspect it's your applicator and perhaps your technique. Don't press too hard, adn let the product do the work, workign it in very very well before you buff/wipe it off.

If you haven't found - or read - it yet, check out all the tips/techniques articles and videos HERE. A boatload of excellent information.