Klasse SG

badhemi

badhemi

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Well i guess i should have done some reading before my first time with the product. Yes my arms are sore. I applied the Klasse SG to the whole truck then went back to take it off. Did alot of wiping. The only way I could get rid of the streaking was to spritz with soft water and rewipe. Will this affect the durability of the product? The Klasse SG was on the truck for about 15 minutes to a half hour before wiping off. i have not waxed yet, waiting for it to cure.
 
I've wondered that myself... With all of the suggestions to make KSG easier to use, spritz with water, WOWO, etc., you have to wonder what effect there is on durability and protection.

Ok, so that wasn't an answer at all, sorry. ;)
 
When I was learning to use it the recommendation was to wait 12 hours before removing. I still had to spritz an MF to remove it but it did seem a little easier.
I put three coats on my truck and never used it again.
 
I transferred KSG to a small 4oz. spray bottle and used the WOWO method. I got a lot of durability out of it. From what I've read, a general rule is not to expose the sealant to water until it's had time to cure; a QD might have been a better method of eliminating the streaking. Also, if it streaked, you used way too much. A very little KSG goes a long way.
 
Agree with MadOzodi

Notes:
1.Product can be applied by hand (WOWO) or machine (Cyclo Polisher or a Porter-Cable random orbital buffer) best (very thin) results are obtained with machine application
2.Klasse SG can be diluted (3:1 SG / distilled water (makes for easier residue removal)
3.Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used
4.If there are stubborn spots (usually because too much SG was used, fill a spray bottle with a 4:1 solution of distilled water / SG and lightly spray the panel and buff. After you're done, keep the bottle around and use as a QD.
5.Sonus Acrylic spritz (Autopia.org) a perfect compliment to the AIO /KSG system - it’s a QD for acrylic sealants
6.A 3:1 solution of Distilled water Klasse SG, use this immediately following (conventional) wash as a wipe on/wipe off. It serves as a rejuvenator and the application is very quick like a QD.
7.Klasse is an acrylic resin coating, it's not a petroleum silicate, or water-based product, and acrylic’s when they cross-link form a hard shell. Petroleum distillates will remove polymer sealants but not acrylic so a Carnauba wax can be applied to produce a deep ‘jetting’ (the so called ‘wet-look’)
8.An ideal last step product (LSP) for metallic paint is Pinnacle Signature Series Carnauba / Polymer wax
 
Last edited:
TOGWT said:
Agree with MadOzodi

Notes:
1.Product can be applied by hand (WOWO) or machine (Cyclo Polisher or a Porter-Cable random orbital buffer) best (very thin) results are obtained with machine application
2.Klasse SG can be diluted (3:1 SG / distilled water (makes for easier residue removal)
3.Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used
4.If there are stubborn spots (usually because too much SG was used, fill a spray bottle with a 4:1 solution of distilled water / SG and lightly spray the panel and buff. After you're done, keep the bottle around and use as a QD.
5.Sonus Acrylic spritz (Autopia.org) a perfect compliment to the AIO /KSG system - it’s a QD for acrylic sealants
6.A 3:1 solution of Distilled water Klasse SG, use this immediately following (conventional) wash as a wipe on/wipe off. It serves as a rejuvenator and the application is very quick like a QD.
7.Klasse is an acrylic resin coating, it's not a petroleum silicate, or water-based product, and acrylic’s when they cross-link form a hard shell. Petroleum distillates will remove polymer sealants but not acrylic so a Carnauba wax can be applied to produce a deep ‘jetting’ (the so called ‘wet-look’)
8.An ideal last step product (LSP) for metallic paint is Pinnacle Signature Series Carnauba / Polymer wax
Click to expand...

I've read this (bolded) before and am wondering, with so many of us topping every sealant on the market with a wax, are we all just removing the sealants??? Even if fully cured (cross linked)?
 
trust me i didn't use that much. i used less than 1.5oz for the whole truck. maybe streaking was the wrong word. ok looking at the truck straight on it looked like i got it all wiped off. when i looked at the truck at an angle with a 500watt work light you could see where some didn't wipe completely off. so next time i'll put it in a spray bottle, wowo right away and if i get a spot thats being stubborn use a QD to help with it. thanks for the tips, much appreciated
 
btw i tried a pc first to apply. i'm fairly sure this way would have been a mistake. i tried a red wax pad then gray and all it did was streak big time. so i applied it by hand.
 
KSG is a PITA IMHO, but when you use it on top of KAIO, the combo has some serious durability. I ONR'd my car in the middle of the winter and after a cold rain, it was still beading very nicely.
 
A couple hints ... first use the KSG in a spray bottle (small travel size and one spritz per panel) WOWO method for removal. If you get a tuff spot or miss some, respray and immediately wipe off and it takes it off. Should allow 4-10 hours for it to cure without introduction to water for maximum durability.
 
Oh ya, killrwheels is the one that taught me how to use KSG.

I've also read somewhere that it takes 5 coats of the stuff before it looks not so plasticky...you may want to consider topping it with some of the new polycharged Souveran.
 
makdaddy626 said:
I've read this (bolded) before and am wondering, with so many of us topping every sealant on the market with a wax, are we all just removing the sealants??? Even if fully cured (cross linked)?
Click to expand...

7.Klasse is an acrylic resin coating, it's not a petroleum silicate, or water-based product, and acrylic’s when they cross-link form a hard shell. Petroleum distillates will remove polymer sealants but not acrylic so a Carnauba wax can be applied to produce a deep ‘jetting’ (the so called ‘wet-look’)

The solvent content in a Caranauba wax carrier system will not remove a polymer that has cross-linked, however water will compromise it if you introduce it to the polymer before its had time to crosslink.
 
I redid the truck last night. This time things went much better. Only took about an hour. Thanks to all for the tips. Hopefully tonight i can take some pictures and post them.
 
Actually... if you're using klasse SG, try this, machine apply it (pc/udm with grey/black pad by lc) and instead of the usually 1 or 2 thin lines, try 2 or 3 drops. It spreads WHISPER thin. And the results are wowo as long as you start from lets say the hood, work around the car, and buff off in the same way you applied it.

It comes out stunning that way.
 
I started out with a wash (Meguiers Deep Crystal) then went to Wolfgang clay bar then started to remove swirls and scratches with XMT 1-4. Wash again then KAIO then KSG then cure then a second coat. Finally some Souvern then a day later qd with crystal mist
 
Thanks again to everyone who jumped in with the tips. i've learned a great deal on this fourm.
 
with the spray bottle method that killr suggested....how do you apply it? Cause wouldnt wiping it in the first place with a MF just take it off?

I'm gonna try apply the whole car with PC w/ gray pad then wipe off with MF....

I always assumed that this would be just as easy to apply as a wax is.
 
if you don't wipe it off right away it will streak and be very hard to get off. i suggest one panel at a time...hood, fender, door...etc. using a QD or hitting the tough spots again will help if it doesn't come off right away or streaks. i did 3/4 of the truck then went back to wipe off and that was a mistake. do a little at a time is the best way imo
 
Alright, so it is basically a wax but a little more difficult to come off. Great! (Not being sarcastic)

I have to take care of a 5 cars now so every little bit of info helps me out....I don't mind spending 6+ hours on my own car. The other 4 cars get 4 hours tops for me, happily. Lucky for me, they arent anal about how the car looks too much so I don't need to do much paint correction. Wash, clay, KAIO, glaze and sealant is enough for them.
 
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