Lake Country - CCS vs CCS Cutback pads

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mossyoakglock

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I was looking on Lake Country's website and noticed two types of CCS pads. The regular CCS and then there are some CCS Cutback pads. There wasn't much on their website as to what the difference is and I was wondering if anybody here knew.

I currently have the Lake Country flat pads but want to go to the CCS Smart Pads. I have been using the Flat Pads on my 2008 Silverado with good results. I will also be detailing a '76 MGB soon and the paint has been neglected (it really needs a repaint but trying to save it for now).

Would the flat pads or the CCS pads be better for both my 2008 Silverado and a '76 MGB?

Is there a difference between the CCS and CCS Cutback pads?
 
The cut back allow for easier centering of the pad on the plate.

If you take a moment to line up your pad, you'll be fine with the standard cut.

As far as the ccs vs flat, a lot more users prefer the flat to the ccs. I like ccs for cutting and polishing, but I like flats for cleaner wax and sealants.

If you're using a diminishing abrasive I'd for sure go with flat though. The reason being, the ccs pockets can hold product, and disperse it throughout the buffing cycle. This might lead to uneven abrasive cycling, and possibly sacrifice finishing. With a non diminishing abrasive product, it's not an issue.

You could also look into the Hydrotech line as it has a cut back, and a different foam composition. It keeps the product on the surface of the pad, rather than soaking it up. They also have a tremendous range of cut / finishing per pad. Also, there are only three pads in the range.

Thin Pro pads by Lake Country have become very popular here on the forum, but I haven't used them specifically. I have used the new Meguiar's Thin Foam Discs, and they're fantastic. I don't have issues with rotation of thick pads, so I don't necessarily realize the benefit of the thin pads personally.
 
I'm using the Harbor Freight DA polisher along with Meguiars products (UC, UP, UC, 105/205, etc).

Are the Meguiars products diminishing products?
 
So if those are non-diminishing would the flat pads, CCS pads or the Hydrotech pads be better?

Are the Meguiars products water-based?

These are mainly used on a 2008 Silverado but would also be used on a '76 MGB with original, single-stage paint if that matters.
 
mossyoakglock said:
So if those are non-diminishing would the flat pads, CCS pads or the Hydrotech pads be better?

Are the Meguiars products water-based?

These are mainly used on a 2008 Silverado but would also be used on a '76 MGB with original, single-stage paint if that matters.
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It shouldn't matter. Flats and ccs are the same foams. They'll last longer than the Hydro pads.

I don't believe all megs are water based. The Hydrotech name implies "only for use with water based polishes" but that's not true. They're called that because they try and keep the moisture on the face of the pad.

With that selection of Meguiar's stuff I have had great luck with green, blue, and red Buff and Shine pads.
 
I currently have the products mentioned along with Orange and white flat pads.

I read that the "cut scale" for M105/205 is based on using a wool pad and that when using a DA and foam pad the cut is usually less. Is there much difference between M105/UC when using a DA/foam pad combo. What about M205/UP?

Should I keep it simple and use the orange pad only with compound or can I use it with a white pad? Same question on using a polish with a white pad only or is there a benefit in using polish with an orange pad?

It sounds like I should stick with either the flat pads or go with the CCS pads unless the hydrotech pads are the best compromise. I'm afraid to test a yellow pad since it's so aggressive. I've got a few very light scratches on my '08 that I could not get out with UC/Orange Pad combo. Would a yellow pad be the next step?
 
mossyoakglock said:
I currently have the products mentioned along with Orange and white flat pads.

I read that the "cut scale" for M105/205 is based on using a wool pad and that when using a DA and foam pad the cut is usually less. Is there much difference between M105/UC when using a DA/foam pad combo. What about M205/UP?

Should I keep it simple and use the orange pad only with compound or can I use it with a white pad? Same question on using a polish with a white pad only or is there a benefit in using polish with an orange pad?

It sounds like I should stick with either the flat pads or go with the CCS pads unless the hydrotech pads are the best compromise. I'm afraid to test a yellow pad since it's so aggressive. I've got a few very light scratches on my '08 that I could not get out with UC/Orange Pad combo. Would a yellow pad be the next step?
Click to expand...

Even on a random orbital, the M105 will be stronger than the Ultimate Compound. Same applies for M205/UP.

You can use the compounds with the white polishing pads, but you may find that you still need to finish down with something finer. However, many subscribe to using a polish with the orange pad to get a compromise between cutting and finishing. I find it best to keep things simple, and try to remove the damage with my polishing combo. If that doesn't work I'll use my dedicated compounding combo, and follow with the polishing.

I think you'll be fine sticking with the orange and white foams of either the Flat, CCS, or Thin Pro series. They yellow pad is nothing to be fearful of. The Cyan Hydrotech has a similar cut to the yellow foam, but finishes like a white polishing pad. The Tangerine cuts close to the orange, but finishes like a black pad. The Crimson can cut like a white foam polishing pad, but finish like a blue finessing pad. Like I said, they do wear faster by nature of the type of foam they use. You get that excellent performance, but the pads don't hang on as long.

If the UC wasn't working, what was your technique like? How did you dress the pad? How much pressure did you use? How many passes? What speed setting did you use?

I would add a drop or two of M105 to that pad, and see what happens. You could go to a yellow pad, or try the M105 in place of the Ultimate Compound on the orange pad.
 
dlc95 said:
Even on a random orbital, the M105 will be stronger than the Ultimate Compound. Same applies for M205/UP.

You can use the compounds with the white polishing pads, but you may find that you still need to finish down with something finer. However, many subscribe to using a polish with the orange pad to get a compromise between cutting and finishing. I find it best to keep things simple, and try to remove the damage with my polishing combo. If that doesn't work I'll use my dedicated compounding combo, and follow with the polishing.

I think you'll be fine sticking with the orange and white foams of either the Flat, CCS, or Thin Pro series. They yellow pad is nothing to be fearful of. The Cyan Hydrotech has a similar cut to the yellow foam, but finishes like a white polishing pad. The Tangerine cuts close to the orange, but finishes like a black pad. The Crimson can cut like a white foam polishing pad, but finish like a blue finessing pad. Like I said, they do wear faster by nature of the type of foam they use. You get that excellent performance, but the pads don't hang on as long.

If the UC wasn't working, what was your technique like? How did you dress the pad? How much pressure did you use? How many passes? What speed setting did you use?

I would add a drop or two of M105 to that pad, and see what happens. You could go to a yellow pad, or try the M105 in place of the Ultimate Compound on the orange pad.
Click to expand...

If the UC wasn't working, what was your technique like? How did you dress the pad? How much pressure did you use? How many passes? What speed setting did you use?

I put an "X" on the pad and used very low speed to spread the compound. I used moderate pressure but not a lot of pressure where I started to "warp" the panel if that makes sense. I did about 4-5 section passes and speed was maybe around 4-5 (can't remember off the top of my head).

What would be the proper speed settings for each combination? I think the speeds are very close to the PC and the other DA polishers out there.
 
That should do the trick.

I like to start with five drops around the circumference of the pad, myself - to stave off saturating the center of the pad, where all the "stuff" accumulates.

Did it make an improvement?

Speed 4 or 5 is fine on that tool. It's actually more powerful than the PC. I had one, and didn't ever take it past 4.

Try it again and slow down your arm speed, maybe even lighten your pressure. You want those abrasives rolling around, chewing off the paint. Lighter pressure keeps that pad rotating over the surface. Light but firm pressure is how I describe it.
 
if you're using a traditional pc-style DA i would go with the lake country thinpro or GG Boss Pads as they are thinner. if i'm not mistaken the ccs pads are thicker...
 
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