Thanks again Tony, I've already learnt so much just from your replies!
Sorry to sound so newbie but what does DAT stand for?
Do you think the Yellow 6.5" Lake Country CCS would be too harsh to use on a car that has some swirls and water marks?
I didn't want to get anything too aggressive, but perhaps it might be worth having in case I ever need it.
What do you think?
You are much welcome, thank you as well.
DAT = Diminishing Abrasive Technology, it breaks down, IE; Menzerna
SMAT = Small Micro Abrasive Technology, it doesn't break down, IE; most new Meguiar's products
Yes, I think the yellow pad would likely be too much to start off with. But that is more of a general statement than one coming from knowing what paint
YOU ARE working with.
In other words, the yellow pad is a beast when it comes to cut. But some paint, hard paint, can take it. Others, and there are a LOT of them out there, will not and will actually haze and suffer from micromarring when working them with a yellow pad. Micromarring doesn't mean you cannot get a perfect finish, just that you are going to have to work it with at least 1 extra step to get there. Think, 1 compounding and 1 finishing step most of the time. But if you have a lot of hazing you'll likely have 1 compounding, 1 heavy polishing, then 1 light polishing step.
The real key is to do a test spot. Actually do SEVERAL, changing up your technique, your compound, and the pad.
Say you divide your hood into 4 areas;
- 1 with a orange pad, PF-2500, medium heavy pressure, speed 4 for 4 passes
- 1 with a orange pad, PF-2500, medium pressure, speed 5 for 5 passes
- 1 with a white pad, FG-400, medium heavy pressure, speed 4 for 4 passes
- 1 with a white pad, FG-400, light pressure, speed 5 for 5 passes
And so on and so on. All the above will leave the product wet enough to remove at that point. Notice I'm not saying to finish it out, but just do the first 'cutting' part and compare one to another. Typically you can get 6-ish passes and finish working the product, and that's when it finishes out the best, after the first part of the cutting phase has finished. You'll probably get about 6 passes out of most of them though.
What you're looking for in the beginning is the least amount of pressure, working time, and cut to get the paint to where you want it before going on to your polishing stage.
I did say FG-400 as I'm thinking that is what you meant to say earlier. (You said FG-500.)
I know you didn't mention SI-1500, (I don't keep it either, but do have FG-400, PF-2500 & SF-4000)) but it may be something you want to consider. SI-1500 is quite versatile in that respect. While I'd not recommend starting with FG-400 and an orange pad, (
although you can, and you MAY NEED TO) :dunno: I'd not have a problem saying to start with SI-1500 and an orange pad, (even on soft paint).
Just don't want to cast a blanket statement out there saying all XYZ paint is hard, and all ABC paint is soft. Some are, some are not. The ONLY way you know is by working it, period.
I know a guy that uses it almost exclusively and you can bet more often than not he's starting, and actually FINISHING with an orange pad.
The way it has more cut right there at the beginning, (first pass) then drops fast, then after a tiny water spritz it'll end up finishing down really nicely. I've seen it go straight to Menz Power Lock time and time again with nothing more than an orange pad start to finish.
Actually, with Megs heavy cut (SMAT) compounds like 101 & 105 even orange pads can have too much cut. (Which is why I have so many whites.) 