Thanks for the PM to let me know no one answered this thread and your questions.
Here's the deal...
Thin pads work best on free spinning tools like the Porter Cable. So YES a THIN PURPLE FOAMED WOOL PAD will out cut a foam cutting pad BECAUSE
FIBERS ARE AN ABRASIVE
That's why fiber pads tend to leave micro-marring in the paint more than foam pads because FIBERS ARE AN ABRASIVE. They CUT the paint.
When we doing our Test Spot on the Ferdinand Magellan Rail Car we started out testing a Meguiar's microfiber pad. Sure it removed the swirls, scratches and oxidation but it left micro-marring in the paint. It was the FIBERS that were cutting the paint.
Thick versus Thin
And of course thick pads don't rotate as well as thin pads on free spinning orbital polishers. At least 6 years ago, if not before, I coined the term thin is in, check out the time stamp of this thread by the same name.
Thin is in...
So pretty much
anyone that's been reading
free how-to articles on this forum knows that thin pads rotate better than thick pads. I also addressed this in my first and second how too books.
I also cover how thin PURPLE FOAMED WOOL PADS rotate better on free spinning orbital polisher like the Porter Cable and Griot's Garage polishers in my boat detailing book.
As for using
NON RUPES pads and chemicals with a RUPES tool that's up to you.
What I wrote in my book is RUPES is a paint polishing
SYSTEM not a tool.
In my book, in my classes and when I detail cars I will normally use RUPES as a
system not try to use NON RUPES pads and products with their tools.
I have not written the article,
The Air Test
But I will. I do cover this way of
testing non-RUPES pads in my RUPES book on
page 7
And for your question about using thin microfiber pads on large orbit stroke tools the answer is I have found the RUPES microfiber pads work exceedingly well for cutting and polishing and I cover this topic in FULL in-depth detail on pages 74 and 75.
I know others have used non-RUPES microfiber pads with success on RUPES orbital polishers and I'll let them chime in with their experience.
Most important thing to do whenever buffing out a car that you have NEVER buffed out before is to START by doing a TEST SPOT. Another term I coined in this industry that I'm happy to say is now an industry standard term used by so many....
And "yes" I have an article on the history behind the term Test Spot
Test Spot - The story behind the story...
Here's the first use I can document in the forum world, probably exist father back in the Usenet Newsgroup world.
Test Spot
Hope some of the above helps...
Thanks for alerting me via PM no one had replied to your thread. That said, in most cases questions from anyone should be posted to the forum, not sent via a PM.
