Layering sealants?

andrew b

andrew b

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Does anyone bother to apply more than one coat/layer of the sealants like DGPS, Blackfire, etc?

I know folks still top with various waxes, but before I do that I'm wondering if I should do another layer of DGPS....

Thoughts? This is on a Monaco Blue BMW, using DGPS and topping with (probably) Pinnacle SigII...
 
The only sealant I layer is UPGP. You only have to wait 45 min between coats. Other than that, it's only one layer for all other sealants.
 
I layer Blackfire Wet Diamond and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant with great results. Just be sure to wait at least 8-12 hours.
 
Two layers for me, just to ensure that I've not missed any spots - but then again, unlike I would guess most here, I don't layer waxes on top of sealants.
 
andrew b said:
This is on a Monaco Blue BMW, using DGPS and topping with (probably) Pinnacle SigII...
Click to expand...

The Monaco Blue color is the base coat. You won't, hopefully, be applying any LSP's to the base coat paint film.

Polishing/leveling/'correcting', as it were, the clear-coat paint film is the true way to allow the Monaco Blue color to "shine" through the clear-coat...being at it's best reflective hue. In other words the clear-coat is deemed to be 'clearer'.

Once you've attained, to your satisfaction, the clear-coat 'correction', you're goal should be protecting the clear-coat with an LSP that will, upon curing, also be clear as possible.

The steps taken to achieve the above will allow the Monaco Blue to "shine" through now, what I consider, two (2) film coats....
-One (1) being the: As clear as you have made possible, to your satisfaction, from being 'corrected': Clear-coat paint-film
-Two (2) being the LSP applied upon the clear-coat that hopefully has cured to be clear also.

You don't want an LSP occluding the 'corrected' clear-coat right off the bat....When an LSP has begun its march towards its end-of-life cycle..It will begin to occlude the clear-coat paint film, causing the Monaco Blue to seem "not so shiny" as before...not as clear, because the clear-coat paint film is occluded/grayed-out.

If you desire to layer more LSP's atop the original LSP (#2 from above)...


I will only suggest to try the: "Cure-Clear" analogy. That's what I do.


:)

Bob
 
I did two coats of WGDGPS on my truck for winter. Didn't top it with anything else.

I also did two coats of WGDGPS on my mom's car before winter, but topped it with Fuzion. This was mainly because I really wanted to try out Fuzion.

Come spring/summer I'll probably only do one coat of sealant and then top with a wax.

This is really just my personal preference.
 
FUNX725 said:
The Monaco Blue color is the base coat. You won't, hopefully, be applying any LSP's to the base coat paint film.

Polishing/leveling/'correcting', as it were, the clear-coat paint film is the true way to allow the Monaco Blue color to "shine" through the clear-coat...being at it's best reflective hue. In other words the clear-coat is deemed to be 'clearer'.

Once you've attained, to your satisfaction, the clear-coat 'correction', you're goal should be protecting the clear-coat with an LSP that will, upon curing, also be clear as possible.

The steps taken to achieve the above will allow the Monaco Blue to "shine" through now, what I consider, two (2) film coats....
-One (1) being the: As clear as you have made possible, to your satisfaction, from being 'corrected': Clear-coat paint-film
-Two (2) being the LSP applied upon the clear-coat that hopefully has cured to be clear also.

You don't want an LSP occluding the 'corrected' clear-coat right off the bat....When an LSP has begun its march towards its end-of-life cycle..It will begin to occlude the clear-coat paint film, causing the Monaco Blue to seem "not so shiny" as before...not as clear, because the clear-coat paint film is occluded/grayed-out.

If you desire to layer more LSP's atop the original LSP (#2 from above)...


I will only suggest to try the: "Cure-Clear" analogy. That's what I do.


:)

Bob
Click to expand...
Wow, that's a heck of a response! Very detailed and informative.
 
I've layered several different sealants this past summer with complete success. Some of the sealants I used were;

  • Prima Hydro-Seal
  • Klasse High Gloss Sealant
  • Wolfgang Deep Gloss Pint Sealant
  • Werkstat Acrylic Jett
  • Ultima Paint Guard Plus
  • Detailers Pro Poli-Coat Paint Sealant
Wait 12 hours between coats and you'll be fine....:props:
 
Dr Oldz said:
The only sealant I layer is UPGP. You only have to wait 45 min between coats. Other than that, it's only one layer for all other sealants.
Click to expand...

Same for me 99% of the time.

For Sky I wait hours to re-coat but anybody else its 45 minutes now.
 
3 coats of UPGP look fantastic on my honda...a candy look
photo3.jpg
 
I've layered 2 coats of Megs ULW one right after the other then a 3rd a week later. No issues.
 
I stopped layering sealants. As long as you are meticulous with your application and don't miss spots, layering a sealant has shown me no durability gains.
 
I put 2 coats on just to be safe...One ofMenzerna (left the Men.at brother-in-laws) and a coat of Blackfire....looks great..
 
I've read that some people have done 40 layers of ksg

I got up to 3 then said the heck with it...
 
KSG is one of a few products that seems to layer, 3 seems to be the magic number, after that you don't seem to get much out of it.
 
yakky said:
KSG is one of a few products that seems to layer, 3 seems to be the magic number, after that you don't seem to get much out of it.
Click to expand...

yes, this is what made me think of it. I used to do KAIO x2, and then KSG x3 (or more). for me, 3 was about the right number, after that you couldn't really tell much difference.

Just wondering if the new (not the quartz) sealants also benefit from more than one layer....
 
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