Liquid Glass
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supercharged
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- Mar 7, 2006
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Liquid Glass in a radiator? You mean Liquid Glass paint sealant, or maybe some kind od radiator seal? Has the person that recommended that you do that done that to THEIR OWN car?
Reddwarf
New member
- Mar 4, 2006
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It is sold at AG and I've seen it at PepBoy's. But I can't imagine putting in the radiator!
http://www.autogeek.net/liquidglass.html
The company also has a website with product information.
http://www.autogeek.net/liquidglass.html
The company also has a website with product information.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #7
I had more than one person to tell me this, if you blow a headgaset, I was up by Indianapolis, when it happen , this guy has race cars and has used it more than once, he said he got it from CVS drug store's .
They said to drain all fluids, put the Liquid Glass in the radiator, run it for about 15 min. drain , put in new coolent, oil ?
They said to drain all fluids, put the Liquid Glass in the radiator, run it for about 15 min. drain , put in new coolent, oil ?
Al-53
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- Mar 4, 2006
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you sure he was not talking about liquid Draino...LOL...or Liquid Plummer...
I can not see any advantage to a product like LG doing anything to correct a head gasket leak..but never know...we use to use ground pepper in the old days to fix a small radiator leak..and it worked..lol
AL
I can not see any advantage to a product like LG doing anything to correct a head gasket leak..but never know...we use to use ground pepper in the old days to fix a small radiator leak..and it worked..lol
AL
William's_Detail
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- Aug 29, 2006
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Liquid Glass Will Seal Leaks ....
Hi,
Liquid Glass is a generic term for Sodium Silicate. It is the active ingredient in Cargo Block Sealer, K-W Block Sealer and many others. I have used it several times to repair head gaskets and even a cracked head on a Ford Taurus 2.5L . It can be purchased full strength in 30 ounce jars similar in looks to a mayonnaise jar at most old-time drug stores for about $12.00 and is commonly used as a concrete sealer.
To prepare for automotive use, mix entire 30 ounce jar with a gallon of water, shake vigorously and set aside.
To use it on a leaking head gasket, block or head follow these steps:
1) Drain radiator and block then flush out to remove any antifreeze.
2) After re-installing lower hose or radiator drain plug pour in mixture and then top off with water.
3) Drive car as you normally would for 30 minutes to one hour. Do not allow engine to overheat by running out of water. Depending on severity of leak your drive time will vary.
4) Park car and allow water to cool so you can remove hose and let radiator and block drain completely.
5) Allow car to remain parked overnight or longer for product to dry.
6) Re-install hoses, refill with water to test drive. If the leak is sealed, drain water and refill with proper coolant/water mixture.
Note: Liquid Glass MUST be air-dried in order to harden. Steps 4 and 5 are critical for success. Pouring it into the radiator and just driving will not work and is a total waste of money. Be sure to FLUSH ANTIFREEZE from system BEFORE pouring Liquid Glass Mixture into radiator.
I have used this product several times and have told others about it at my parts store and they have always had good results.
If you are uncomfortable with it, research it on Google.com or Ask.com.
I cannot and do not assume any responsibility, I am only reporting my past experiences with the product.
William
Hi,
Liquid Glass is a generic term for Sodium Silicate. It is the active ingredient in Cargo Block Sealer, K-W Block Sealer and many others. I have used it several times to repair head gaskets and even a cracked head on a Ford Taurus 2.5L . It can be purchased full strength in 30 ounce jars similar in looks to a mayonnaise jar at most old-time drug stores for about $12.00 and is commonly used as a concrete sealer.
To prepare for automotive use, mix entire 30 ounce jar with a gallon of water, shake vigorously and set aside.
To use it on a leaking head gasket, block or head follow these steps:
1) Drain radiator and block then flush out to remove any antifreeze.
2) After re-installing lower hose or radiator drain plug pour in mixture and then top off with water.
3) Drive car as you normally would for 30 minutes to one hour. Do not allow engine to overheat by running out of water. Depending on severity of leak your drive time will vary.
4) Park car and allow water to cool so you can remove hose and let radiator and block drain completely.
5) Allow car to remain parked overnight or longer for product to dry.
6) Re-install hoses, refill with water to test drive. If the leak is sealed, drain water and refill with proper coolant/water mixture.
Note: Liquid Glass MUST be air-dried in order to harden. Steps 4 and 5 are critical for success. Pouring it into the radiator and just driving will not work and is a total waste of money. Be sure to FLUSH ANTIFREEZE from system BEFORE pouring Liquid Glass Mixture into radiator.
I have used this product several times and have told others about it at my parts store and they have always had good results.
If you are uncomfortable with it, research it on Google.com or Ask.com.
I cannot and do not assume any responsibility, I am only reporting my past experiences with the product.
William
Last edited:
aceshigh73
New member
- Jul 13, 2006
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate
What William said... half way thru web page....
I actually have purchased a derivative of Sodium Silicate called Silica Gel to aid in my erradication of my Carperter Bees.
It acts as a dessicant to effectively dehydrate the bees to death....
Its also the same stuff they use in packages (like in shoe boxes) to keep moisture out.....
What William said... half way thru web page....
I actually have purchased a derivative of Sodium Silicate called Silica Gel to aid in my erradication of my Carperter Bees.
It acts as a dessicant to effectively dehydrate the bees to death....
Its also the same stuff they use in packages (like in shoe boxes) to keep moisture out.....
Last edited:
Reddwarf
New member
- Mar 4, 2006
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Very interesting! I love Wikipedia. It is a great resource. Interesting information about Liquid Glass, but no way am I putting it in my radiator!
As a side note, the Liguid Glass web site states that it is great for formica. I wrote them an email asking if it is safe to apply on a formica countertop in the kitchen. They replied that they have not tested it for food prep and therefore don't recommend it. Seemed off to me, becuase isn't the kitchen the typical place for formica?
As a side note, the Liguid Glass web site states that it is great for formica. I wrote them an email asking if it is safe to apply on a formica countertop in the kitchen. They replied that they have not tested it for food prep and therefore don't recommend it. Seemed off to me, becuase isn't the kitchen the typical place for formica?
aceshigh73
New member
- Jul 13, 2006
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Yes.. but its also prevalent in "old school italian" bedroom and living room furniture.... especially if you are from Brooklyn... 
snomon1017
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- Mar 6, 2006
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Reddwarf said:
LIABILITY !!!
William's_Detail
New member
- Aug 29, 2006
- 57
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1991 FORD TAURUS GL 2.5L 153 cubic inch L4 FI. Almost all the 4cyl models came with a 5spd man trans.
No disrespect intended, but I owned the car and have been in the auto parts business since the 80's and am ASE certified.
Thanks,
William
No disrespect intended, but I owned the car and have been in the auto parts business since the 80's and am ASE certified.
Thanks,
William
William's_Detail
New member
- Aug 29, 2006
- 57
- 0
ALLPAR presents:
Fixing Head Gasket Leaks and Small Cracks
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]courtesy of Steve Richfield
[/FONT]
There are now several new "Block Sealer" products out with sodium silicate in them, the most popular being the K&W brand. The alchemists called sodium silicate "water glass" since it turns to glass when dried. When added to coolant, first it is sucked into a crack by the intake suction, then the exhaust blast dries some of it out and turns it to glass, making the leak smaller. This continues with each stroke, the leak getting smaller and smaller as concentric layers of glass are laid down, until the leak stops leaking. Genuine MOPAR antifreeze, recommended in Chrysler owners manuals, contain a small amount of sodium silicate to stop internal leaks as they develop. Hence, leaking head gaskets and cracked heads are usually only a problem if you haven't been using genuine MOPAR antifreeze as Chrysler recommends. Sure you have them, but you never have cause to know about them.
In one extreme case, a friend had a car that was so bad that water trickled out of the tail pipe as he added it to the radiator. Treatment as instructed on the can didn't work. Then he decided to just leave the treatment in the engine rather than flushing it out as directed, as he lived in California where he didn't really need antifreeze. He drove the car without further problems for the next 2 years, whereupon it was totaled in an accident, with the block sealer still holding.
Of course, things are never quite that simple. Here are the major complications:
1. Most products add metal to the mixture to strengthen the glass, so that it is more durable. Products without metal produce a "town car" result, where the fix may only last a year or so, provided that you don't take it on the highway and heat it up.
2. They often clog up the heater cores, so it is best to disconnect the heater when treating the car, and for a period following treatment.
3. As indicated on the label, it is very important to flush all of the antifreeze out before treating, and flush all of the block sealer out before replacing the antifreeze. I reuse the old antifreeze for a few hundred miles, then flush and replace it and reconnect the heater.
4. I believe that you should drive the car hard during treatment, to get the the crack to shift in any way it can to fully fill it in. However, I first drive gently to mostly seal the crack, then vent any gas in the head, then put the pedal to the metal to finish the job. I suspect that the Higway Patrol wouldn't let them put this on the can.
Feedback by Alex Chan
I wish to thank the CRC Industries, Inc. for developing this wonderful product, Permanent Metallic(tm) Block Seal. I have used this to seal my head gasket leak and it works great. Following the easy instructions from the block seal tutoring website, this product did the job. It saved me from an enormous expense of a head gasket replacement.
The label in the Permanent Metallic(tm) Block Seal container said "Do not add anti-freeze." People reading this would not buy it without knowing that you could add anti-freeze after sealing has been completed. To be more accurate, "Do not add anti-freeze until sealing has been completed. Please follow the sealing instructions through our website, www.crcindustries.com/crcweb ."
Fixing Head Gasket Leaks and Small Cracks
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]courtesy of Steve Richfield
[/FONT]
There are now several new "Block Sealer" products out with sodium silicate in them, the most popular being the K&W brand. The alchemists called sodium silicate "water glass" since it turns to glass when dried. When added to coolant, first it is sucked into a crack by the intake suction, then the exhaust blast dries some of it out and turns it to glass, making the leak smaller. This continues with each stroke, the leak getting smaller and smaller as concentric layers of glass are laid down, until the leak stops leaking. Genuine MOPAR antifreeze, recommended in Chrysler owners manuals, contain a small amount of sodium silicate to stop internal leaks as they develop. Hence, leaking head gaskets and cracked heads are usually only a problem if you haven't been using genuine MOPAR antifreeze as Chrysler recommends. Sure you have them, but you never have cause to know about them.
In one extreme case, a friend had a car that was so bad that water trickled out of the tail pipe as he added it to the radiator. Treatment as instructed on the can didn't work. Then he decided to just leave the treatment in the engine rather than flushing it out as directed, as he lived in California where he didn't really need antifreeze. He drove the car without further problems for the next 2 years, whereupon it was totaled in an accident, with the block sealer still holding.
Of course, things are never quite that simple. Here are the major complications:
1. Most products add metal to the mixture to strengthen the glass, so that it is more durable. Products without metal produce a "town car" result, where the fix may only last a year or so, provided that you don't take it on the highway and heat it up.
2. They often clog up the heater cores, so it is best to disconnect the heater when treating the car, and for a period following treatment.
3. As indicated on the label, it is very important to flush all of the antifreeze out before treating, and flush all of the block sealer out before replacing the antifreeze. I reuse the old antifreeze for a few hundred miles, then flush and replace it and reconnect the heater.
4. I believe that you should drive the car hard during treatment, to get the the crack to shift in any way it can to fully fill it in. However, I first drive gently to mostly seal the crack, then vent any gas in the head, then put the pedal to the metal to finish the job. I suspect that the Higway Patrol wouldn't let them put this on the can.
Feedback by Alex Chan
I wish to thank the CRC Industries, Inc. for developing this wonderful product, Permanent Metallic(tm) Block Seal. I have used this to seal my head gasket leak and it works great. Following the easy instructions from the block seal tutoring website, this product did the job. It saved me from an enormous expense of a head gasket replacement.
The label in the Permanent Metallic(tm) Block Seal container said "Do not add anti-freeze." People reading this would not buy it without knowing that you could add anti-freeze after sealing has been completed. To be more accurate, "Do not add anti-freeze until sealing has been completed. Please follow the sealing instructions through our website, www.crcindustries.com/crcweb ."