Looking to buy a new rotary or possibly something else

coles_paint_correction

coles_paint_correction

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Currently I have the griots 6 and it works well but I want something that is even stronger for defect removal.
Was looking at possibly a Makita or dewalts, the only thing that I have a problem with is buffer trails.
I use 3m compound on a wool pad then I will wash and 3m machine polish on a black finishing pad. Washing in between steps.
After final polish I usually end up with trails but if I wipe them they somewhat go away and then come back? Kinda confusing just looking for a solid advice setup I could go with.

Either way im in the market to buy something new, either a new rotary or a forced da? I've read that both are great.

I will mostly be doing part time side jobs here and there. And advice or direction would be great. I've read most articles on here and from mike.
 
the flex 3401 is like the best of both worlds (rotary and DA), it's built like a tank and can tackle pretty much almost anything that you throw at it. the fact that you can use 4"-6.5" pads makes it even more versatile...
 
Yeah that's what ive been reading and hearing, I'm really tempted to buy that. I guess I could always use my cheapo harbor freight rotary for the first stage if I ever get serious oxidized cars and then go over with the flex.
 
I have to agree with Visitor and say Flex 3401. As he said, it's the best of both worlds with forced rotation and DA. I have mine coming within a couple of days to replace my Hitachi rotary and Porter Cable DA. I also think it would tackle severe paint issues as easily as my rotary.
 
I was always a rotary guy for years and years.when I met mike Phillips and Todd helme for some live broadcast makeovers,I said to mike what is this polisher he explained it was a dual action polisher.after numerous use and feel I never looked back into my old habits and bought 2 machines.still to this day I never use a rotary only on deep isolated scratches or damp sanding.The dual action make take a little bit longer but the paint is flawless of inducing halos and much neater to work with without dust and sling everywhere .
 
Thats for the reply gs, Im starting to think i should stay with getting a forced da. I'm not sacred or worried to use a rotary as i have used them before.
I just reallly want something that want give me as much trouble with buffer trails or the overall finish when im done. I just hope that the forced da can do some really bad oxidized cars.
If it has enough cut as a rotary would.
 
Bigry18 said:
Thats for the reply gs, Im starting to think i should stay with getting a forced da. I'm not sacred or worried to use a rotary as i have used them before.
I just reallly want something that want give me as much trouble with buffer trails or the overall finish when im done. I just hope that the forced da can do some really bad oxidized cars.
If it has enough cut as a rotary would.
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I know what you mean,it took me several months to convince myself because sometimes polishing with a da takes for ever.keep in mind products and pads will accelerate the process and best of all a true free halo finish.I did a 04 vette with 97000mi black daily driver.It took me 2 hrs and forty minutes too complete this morning.I will post pics later.
 
GSKR said:
I know what you mean,it took me several months to convince myself because sometimes polishing with a da takes for ever.keep in mind products and pads will accelerate the process and best of all a true free halo finish.I did a 04 vette with 97000mi black daily driver.It took me 2 hrs and forty minutes too complete this morning.I will post pics later.
Click to expand...

Yeah i currently have the griots which works well, just when it comes to really bad oxidation it has a hard time.
I'd love to see pictures of you're corvette. Thanks for information and help man.

Also i wonder if it would be best to use a rotary for the real bad oxidation cars then finish it up with a da of somekind?
Really just seeing what would be best to produce a fine finsh with out worrying about buffer trails and such. I mostly do my cars and family and friend jobs.
Not as a career yet.
 
Bigry18 said:
Yeah i currently have the griots which works well, just when it comes to really bad oxidation it has a hard time.
I'd love to see pictures of you're corvette. Thanks for information and help man.

Also i wonder if it would be best to use a rotary for the real bad oxidation cars then finish it up with a da of somekind?
Really just seeing what would be best to produce a fine finsh with out worrying about buffer trails and such. I mostly do my cars and family and friend jobs.
Not as a career yet.
Click to expand...
If you compound with rotary,you will then have to compound with da to remove halos then finish down with polish.you will be doing triple work,all is fine if your getting paid to do so.The flex as a little bit of a learning curve.I was going to upgrade to a large throw machine but then I will have to put down one machine and use another for tight areas.Doing that several times on a detail cost you time.I think it's perfect for airplanes with wide open areas to let it rip.
 
GSKR said:
If you compound with rotary,you will then have to compound with da to remove halos then finish down with polish.you will be doing triple work,all is fine if your getting paid to do so.The flex as a little bit of a learning curve.I was going to upgrade to a large throw machine but then I will have to put down one machine and use another for tight areas.Doing that several times on a detail cost you time.I think it's perfect for airplanes with wide open areas to let it rip.
Click to expand...


For example i did a s10 truck the other day and man it was so oxidized where i was using a strong compound and rotary.
I did the whole car but his budget was 100$ the car looks night and day difference but you can see buffer trails. I tryd to work with his budget but with time/materials/money i can be more out than in.
What would you have done? Gone over the whole car and try to get it buffer trail free? Or stop there? Trying to get a feel for peoples needs. Threre was no way for a all in one. It was too bad.
 
On a bad oxidized truck like that for 100.00 ,I would wash it first then wash it with compound or bar keepers to remove the top layer of finish.Then buff it with a heavey cut wool foam pad purple and hit it with a strong aio.working continuously on cars like that you will need production type products and you won't find them on ag.working on trashed cars like that gives you the best hands on training to prepare you anything that comes your way.
 
GSKR said:
On a bad oxidized truck like that for 100.00 ,I would wash it first then wash it with compound or bar keepers to remove the top layer of finish.Then buff it with a heavey cut wool foam pad purple and hit it with a strong aio.working continuously on cars like that you will need production type products and you won't find them on ag.working on trashed cars like that gives you the best hands on training to prepare you anything that comes your way.
Click to expand...

Yeah this thing was trashed lol, good experience for me though. Right now im just using a cheapo harbor freight rotary with ultimate compound/3m compound and then 3m finish with wool pad/orange cut pad/black finsihing pad/.
But i think im going to get the flex 3401 or something that is a forced da of somekind. Thanks for helping gskr.
 
I'm torn right now between the 3401 or makita rotary, i think if i can buffer trail free i would buy the makita.
 
Flex 3401. You won't regret it. I bought a second one just as a backup in case my first one goes down. You should get the HD model with the backing plate system and you're set to go.
 
I have both flex DA 3401 and rotary ( sorry forgot model) I like the DA because it feels smoother to work with. I don't mind the DA because I have patience. I mostly been using the rotary because I want to get better with rotary.

The only cars I've been working with are the ones at my job. I work for a dealership. I will soon work on my car with the DA.

Wish you luck

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