M-105 Slings like crazy

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No matter what pad/backing plate combo is use, it slings everywhere. Now I know its not my technique because this only happens with M105. Any ideas? Its a PITA to clean up especially if it dries before I get a chance to wipe it.
 
Yea! it does sling like crazy!!

With a rotary, I start with lowest speed and increase upto the point to where M105 will start to sling and generally keep it around that point.

Thorough masking will also help post polishing cleanup .

And sling spots when dried are a paint to get off! its like someone put pinhead sized drops of white paint on your car!
 
How much product are you using?

Are you using foam or wool?
 
I'm going to have to go with you're applying too much product to the pad, or lifting the pad without realizing it. There really isn't a reason that one product would sling more than another.
 
can you spread it more before turning up the speed ???
 
Fact: A rotary polisher will tend to sling more than its dual action counterpart.

Prepping the car is important. Papering and masking a car as if it were being ready for painting saves allot of cleanup time.

A rotary will always sling product especially at the higher speeds where compounding takes place. Using the correct amount of product on the pad will also help minimize this affect and keep product usage to a minimum. Proper speed is also important.

Meguiar's M105 has a "relatively" short working time. If your trying to increase it's working time the natural solution is to add additional product which will lead to slinging. Gage your progress before adding more product as you might have achieved your goal.
 
Also, rather than adding more product, mist the area you already did and hit it again. Keep your pad on the vehicle when turning on or turning off the machine.
 
M105 certainly does sling more than most, but you need to do smaller areas and use less product. It seems like more work but it cuts so fast and finishes out so well, it is worth it.
 
I'm going to have to go with you're applying too much product to the pad, or lifting the pad without realizing it. There really isn't a reason that one product would sling more than another.
I'm with you on this point.

I used to deal with the sling and cleanup of products while rotary polishing. Here's how I got around it. I have studied the Kevin Brown method extensively. If you read or have read his articles and postings on pad priming you can see in his posted photos exactly how he primes his pad before polishing or compounding a work section.

What I have done to eliminate 98% of the sling in rotary polishing/compounding is to prime my pad exactly as Kevin shows in his articles, and then (without adding the pea sized dots of product to the pad) just start to work the polish/compound into the work section. I will spread the product around on the work section before cranking up the speed but I find that if I spread the product (M-105) around in too large of a work section it will dry up before I get to polishing over it so I have shrunk the size of my work section a bit to approx. a 1.5 foot squared section.

I use very slow overlapping section passes at approx. 1100 R.P.M. first going from side to side then up and down then back from side to side. If this hasn't corrected the paint defects (and it usually does) I will then "very lightly" mist some water on my work section and pick up the water into my pad quickly before it dries on the panel to rehydrate the product then work a few more section passes. At this point (using a very light water mist on the panel "not the pad") the correcting ability of the M-105 increases significantly and I work it until it goes to clear. This creates a good bit of dust but gets the work done much faster and I'd much rather clean up dust than M-105 splatter.

I have had to/have to test this technique on each and every job that I do as for the size of the work section and amount of product to prime the pad with as the color of paint and amount of direct sunlight will cause the product to act differently from job to job and sometimes even panel to panel but it only takes a few minutes to dial it in. No two detailing jobs are the same and what works for one may not work for the next. You have to have the ability to adjust your technique at the drop of a hat and this can be necessary even in going from one panel to the next on the same car depending on the shape of the panel, if a panel has been repainted, if working outside and the sun is shining on one panel and not the next etc. etc.

The word "Vicissitude" describes paint polishing/compounding very well as there can be a world of ever changing variables to rise above.

vi·cis·si·tudeNoun/vəˈsisəˌt(y)o͞od/

1. A change of circumstances or fortune, typically one that is unwelcome or unpleasant.
2. Alternation between opposite or contrasting things: "the vicissitude of the seasons"

Actually the word describes "life in general" well doesn't it?

I hope this helps. TD
 
I'm going to have to go with you're applying too much product to the pad, or lifting the pad without realizing it. There really isn't a reason that one product would sling more than another.

Agreed. If you putting down a normal sized bead and picking it up properly there is no reason that M105 will sling.

The thinner the polish the more likely it will be to sling IMO. M205 is noticeably thinner than M105 and even that shouldn't sling.

M205 via rotary
 
to remove the dots use some mineral spirits, as by looking at the msds for m105 its one of the main solvents in the compound. so that should make removal of those dots much easier, might be able to keep some in a spray bottle and mist your pad to get a longer working time..just a suggestion..
 
Agreed. If you putting down a normal sized bead and picking it up properly there is no reason that M105 will sling.

The thinner the polish the more likely it will be to sling IMO. M205 is noticeably thinner than M105 and even that shouldn't sling.

M205 via rotary


I don't think I had seen that video before Chad. You make the rotary look effortless.
 
I don't think I had seen that video before Chad. You make the rotary look effortless.


LOL. M205 is a smooth working polish, especially when following up on an previously leveled surface with M105.

I have a few video's I've never done anything with, most of them I wasn't 100% happy with as I get nervous or uncomfortable when I'm recording and I often loose focus and do something silly, like in the first video I increased the speed when I meant to decrease it. :D

Here is another where I used 106fa but worked it a lot longer....

Jeweling The Paint.wmv - YouTube
 
i had the same problem and switched to the mez super intensive polish which caused me no problem. i use the pc dp with lc 5.5 and 4.0yellow pads then finish with ultima wipeon/walk away sealant. the paint looks 1" deep. hope this helps.

budinsc
 
Richy's video was one of the worst ones I have seen in a while, good technique, horrible tiny field of view, thanks for posting it though. good info
 
LOL. M205 is a smooth working polish, especially when following up on an previously leveled surface with M105.

I have a few video's I've never done anything with, most of them I wasn't 100% happy with as I get nervous or uncomfortable when I'm recording and I often loose focus and do something silly, like in the first video I increased the speed when I meant to decrease it. :D

Here is another where I used 106fa but worked it a lot longer....

Jeweling The Paint.wmv - YouTube

Ya, you weren't kidding about longer work time on the second one. I've been using my Flex rotary more and more instead of the 3401 and polished an entire car with it from the 1st to last step just a couple weeks ago. I was very happy with my results but the process wasnt as smooth as in your video LOL practice, practice. Also, picking up a bead may not be for me :laughing:
 
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