M105 trouble

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cwpcasey

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I've tried to use M105 for my second time and I'm not getting the results I am searching for. I'm having all the normal problems everyone talks about, dusting, short work in time, and hard to buff off. My question is this, could priming the pad help solve some of my issues or is me being new at this the problem? Maybe M105 is to advance for me? I'm using a Flex DA with 6.5 CCS pads. Someone please help!! Also I am willing to send someone the rest of my M105 & M205 if they pay for shipping thats how frustrated I am getting with this stuff. I also have used Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover when I went to one the classes Mike holds and I like it a lot so I checked out the polish chart to see what would be comparable to it and Megs #2 was about the same so I have that as well, but that to me has the same problems as M105. Any help would be nice thanks guys..
 
i suggest u downgrade to 5.5 inch pads. prime the pad with 2 sprays of water. then apply 4 pea size dots of m105 onto the pad. set speed to 1 with the PC and spread your product around the work area. afterwards set it to 3 speed and work your way up if needed to do so. you want to stop when it becomes clear and starts to lightly dust. hope this helps you
 
When using M105 the KBM is the preferred way of using this polish. It consists of priming the pad by spreading a thin layer of M105 over a fresh pad so the entire surface as is evenly dispersed with abrasives. Apply 2-3 beads of m105 to the pad and work immediately at speed 5-6 and stop when the compound flashes. Do not spread the polish out as it tends to dry up the surface faster. Also make sure to clean the pad of any spent polish and abraded paint after each pass.

The KBM does not state to use water to extend the buffing cycle but many people find that it helps to extend the working time. Water doenst work particularity well with me as I find it turns the residue in to cement

Dust and short working times is always a problem with M105 and the only thing I have personally found that corrects these issues is using mineral oil as a lubricant. One spritz every new panel, or 3-4 passes, is all that is needed to extend m105's working time and dramatically reduce dusting issues.
 
cwpcasey said:
I've tried to use M105 for my second time and I'm not getting the results I am searching for. I'm having all the normal problems everyone talks about, dusting, short work in time, and hard to buff off. My question is this, could priming the pad help solve some of my issues or is me being new at this the problem? Maybe M105 is to advance for me? I'm using a Flex DA with 6.5 CCS pads. Someone please help!! Also I am willing to send someone the rest of my M105 & M205 if they pay for shipping thats how frustrated I am getting with this stuff. I also have used Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover when I went to one the classes Mike holds and I like it a lot so I checked out the polish chart to see what would be comparable to it and Megs #2 was about the same so I have that as well, but that to me has the same problems as M105. Any help would be nice thanks guys..
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It takes some time ot get used to 105 don't give up . I also added some tips in the post below .:xyxthumbs: What type of car are you working on ??

Cg6LeMoN said:
i suggest u downgrade to 5.5 inch pads. prime the pad with 2 sprays of water. then apply 4 pea size dots of m105 onto the pad. set speed to 1 with the PC and spread your product around the work area. afterwards set it to 3 speed and work your way up if needed to do so. you want to stop when it becomes clear and starts to lightly dust. hope this helps you
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The only way he could go down to 5.5 pads he would need to modify the backing plate on the flex.How big of area are you trying to correct at a time.Try reducing the size and you can prime the pad first with some 105 work it in and then use a few small pea size dots as mentioned.Plus don't wait for it to become clear your over working the product causing it to be harder to remove off since it's drying out. Also the flex Da isn't like the PCXP so the speeds are not the same .Use the flex at speed 6 do three passes and check your work.
 
I was working on a 05 black STI. A friend of mines car that is swirled REALLY bad. I was using the flex on 6 and I only did about 3 passes in a 12"x12" area. I was doing my test spot on the car. If I do the KBM about how much polish do I use to cover the pad? Do an X or O and work that in or more?
 
cwpcasey said:
I was working on a 05 black STI. A friend of mines car that is swirled REALLY bad. I was using the flex on 6 and I only did about 3 passes in a 12"x12" area. I was doing my test spot on the car. If I do the KBM about how much polish do I use to cover the pad? Do an X or O and work that in or more?
Click to expand...

You only need enough product to have a very thin layer of product on there. Here are some threads that illustrate how much product is needed, how a properly primed pad should look and details on the KBM.

A look into Pad Priming - The Kevin Brown Method - Car Care Forums: Meguiar's Online

http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-detailing-product-discussion/110091-megs-d151-5.html
 
i use an o. use my finger to spread it around and then my palm to rub it in. 4 slightly larger than pea sized drops. i do an 18x18 area or smaller, speed 6 from the start. i usually get 6 passes, then wipe off. clean pad with a brush and towel before doing next section. change pads every couple panels and repeat until done. keeping the pad PRIMED and CLEAN will make all the difference, believe me.
 
Once it is primed do you only use a pea size amount every time you do a new section or do you reprime?
 
I have found m105 to be very effective depending on paint type+pad+pressure+how you apply it. M105 works awesome when priming the pad and not using too much product, spraying detail spray on the pad also helps. For me, I start with speed 6 in my PC and not to spread the product in the beginning like other polishes, about 3-4 passes and check my work, I usually spray water to have a longer working time(if needed) directly to the paint.
 
m105 does have alot of work, but can get great results. Start by priming pad and then put more product on and before working, spread it around the area you are working with, then buff out. If the product starts to smear and dry, add very little more and then continue working.
 
I'm in the same boat with 105; the learning curve seems to be long and frustrating, but hope it pays at the end.

The other day I was struggling with 105, and then tried Menzerna PG500. What a relief!!!
 
Herewith the video to answer many of the questions raised

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEpxBe6oXQ&feature=player_embedded]Richy's Meguiars 105 video - YouTube[/video]
 
I had a hell of a time getting results from 105 with a DA.. I've found after working it with a rotary that it responds best to pressure and heat. Not too much of either though. Once you get it in the zone it's magic.

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
 
Bill1234 said:
m105 does have alot of work, but can get great results. Start by priming pad and then put more product on and before working, spread it around the area you are working with, then buff out. If the product starts to smear and dry, add very little more and then continue working.
Click to expand...
No not spread product. Start polishing immediately
 
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