I lightly prime the entire face of the pad and without adding anymore product to the pad, start running the polisher slowly to spread the product in my work area, then bump up the rpm to around 1100 rpm for several passes depending on severity of defects I wish to remove, then slow the rotary to its slowest setting for a final 2 passes to ensure there are no holograms left in the finish.
Finishing with a rotary with certain pads can be a real challenge to do without leaving behind holograms. I like to use the thickest and softest foam pads available and to step even further in the right direction, I try to only use variable contact pads when rotary finishing paint.
I've followed up with this Mazda Miata several times since finishing the super soft single stage paint with 205 and rotary. The owner of the Miata hasn't applied a wax on the car since I did this job and there never were any holograms each time I saw the car in direct sunlight from the day I did this job.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...a-miata-paint-correction-megs-vs-mothers.html
I attribute this to low speed polishing, keeping the pad completely flat wherever possible and using a semi concave variable contact pad to work the curves while having a great percent of the pad in contact with the paint.
I find it very important to remove 100% of any compound residue or compound dust before moving on to rotary polishing with a polish such as 205 (any polish for that matter) as any thing left behind creates the potential for holograms. With the right pad and technique holograms can be non-existent or will be so minimal that any LSP will hide them.
IME it is possible to finish hologram free on certain paints with 205 but some cars where I thought I had finished hologram free would prove me wrong into the future once the wax or sealant wore off of the car. In almost every case, the customer never noticed them but I saw them so it really wasn't a big deal to anyone but myself.