Machine vs hand for last stage

tampatopless

tampatopless

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Getting a lot of good advice. One quick question. I get the feeling that there are a lot of people applying that last stage product, especially if it's a sealant, by hand.

Using wax on a porter makes total sense. But when you start working with those sealants, such as WGDG, it would seem hard to apply a minimal amount using the porter.

Do most people using machines also use the machines to apply the sealant? More than one person has mentioned doing that last stage by hand if they are working with the synthetic sealants.

Which do you prefer? I'm a former Zaino user, so I"m definitely locked in on sealants.
 
I get along quite well by using a DA for LSP, the only time I'll switch to a foam applicator is if I'm getting in tight areas, around the bumper, headlights, pillars wing mirrors and even alloys!
DA just makes knocking out the large panels a breeze!
 
There have been several posts recently as well as a vote for which method you prefer.

After working with a DA I will always apply sealant and wax with a machine. I will use a foam applicator to get at the places a DA can't like the side mirrors or inside the are of the door handles.

As to why you have difficulty applying a sealant on a DA I am at a loss. Could your speed setting be too high? I use speed setting 2.5 - 3 with a PC7424 XP and Speed setting 2 - 2.5 with my Flex 3401. With the PE8 I use speed setting 2 with a 4" Pad.

If you prefer applying sealant by hand that is no problem either. IMO a machine gives a more uniform application and it applies the LSP thin.
 
Its actually exactly opposite. Using a machine allows you to spread the product out more evenly, therefore using less product, by applying a thin even coat.

I just used a PC to apply Collinite 845 which is nearly as thin as water and litterally takes a few drips per panel on the pad and it spreads it nice, thin, and even. The same actually goes for paste wax as well.

I usually remove by hand though because thats one step the machine doesnt seem to save time, as easily as a thin even layer of whatever the LSP is wipes right off.
 
If you use a machine to apply a sealant - you will never get that sealant 100% out of the pad. You may get some of it out - but it's nearly impossible to get it out w/ APC water based style cleaners.

Therefore, IMHO - the pad becomes useless. As, I would never use a pad with old sealant gunked up in it regardless how it's stored.

But, I'm guessing people do it.
 
swanicyouth said:
If you use a machine to apply a sealant - you will never get that sealant 100% out of the pad. You may get some of it out - but it's nearly impossible to get it out w/ APC water based style cleaners.

Therefore, IMHO - the pad becomes useless. As, I would never use a pad with old sealant gunked up in it regardless how it's stored.

But, I'm guessing people do it.
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+1

This is my issue with using a machine. I don't want to reuse a pad used for applying sealant, and it can get a bit expensive to replace a pad made for a machine.
 
Sbmin said:
+1



This is my issue with using a machine. I don't want to reuse a pad used for applying sealant, and it can get a bit expensive to replace a pad made for a machine.
Click to expand...


There is a way to get 100% of the worse sealant out of pads. It's a bit labor intensive though, none the less - I do it.

Soak the pad in mineral spirits. Squeeze it in there (wearing gloves) several times. Then use IPA followed by water to clean out the mineral spirits.

Yes, it's a PIA. But, it's the only way I've found to remove these LSPs from applicators or pads 100%. Of course, you can just toss them in the garbage. But, putting them in a bag and using a "used" applicator next time is just gross.
 
swanicyouth said:
If you use a machine to apply a sealant - you will never get that sealant 100% out of the pad. You may get some of it out - but it's nearly impossible to get it out w/ APC water based style cleaners.

Therefore, IMHO - the pad becomes useless. As, I would never use a pad with old sealant gunked up in it regardless how it's stored.

But, I'm guessing people do it.
Click to expand...

I will have to disagree on that one and there is a way. But rather go through how and have people agree/disagree or think I am full of it I will just stick to my procedure. Once I figured it out it was not an issue. I have used the same pads and they are fine.

However, you are correct....if it is not cleaned right you cannot get rid of all the sealant on the pad.
 
When using a wax for topping I'll use my DA, for the tight spots I rub my fingers over a hard wax then rub my hands together and apply it only using my fingers, I rub my hands together often to make sure my entire hand has wax on them.
This way I get a thin, uniform coat using both DA and fingers.
 
swanicyouth said:
There is a way to get 100% of the worse sealant out of pads. It's a bit labor intensive though, none the less - I do it.

Soak the pad in mineral spirits. Squeeze it in there (wearing gloves) several times. Then use IPA followed by water to clean out the mineral spirits.

Yes, it's a PIA. But, it's the only way I've found to remove these LSPs from applicators or pads 100%. Of course, you can just toss them in the garbage. But, putting them in a bag and using a "used" applicator next time is just gross.
Click to expand...


I spray my pads well using Meguiar's APC cut 3:1
Then work the APC well into the pad, using my water hose I continue to rinse them until clean.
 
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