Making a case for TW Hybrid Solutions 1 & Done Compound

Don M

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Just one man`s opinion of Turtle Wax, Hybrid Solutions - PRO 1 & Done Compound


 
The whole pad dependent thing applies to any compound/polish. You can switch your pad to get more cut/better finish with any paint correction liquid, it all depends on what the paint is asking for.

That being said, I agree with everything you said about 1 & Done. I am a mere hobbyist at this point and this product covers a lot of ground for me from cut to finish. Truly an awesome product that flies under the radar. The proof is in the paint work.

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The whole pad dependent thing applies to any compound/polish. You can switch your pad to get more cut/better finish with any paint correction liquid, it all depends on what the paint is asking for.

In all honesty, I know that varying the aggressiveness of the PAD does affect the 'cut' of the polish/compound, but since Turtle Wax is actually the only company that I'm aware of to bring this up about the 1&Done, I thought I would also mention it in my review of the compound/polish.

Too, changing MACHINES (orbital to rotary) has a drastic affect on the compound in question, case in point - my Camaro. When it was so damaged by fall out, I used the most aggressive pad I had (at the time) and compounded it TWICE with the 1&Done, it DID improve the paint, but it was only temporary - the damage came back, with a vengeance. As a "Hail Mary," I used my rotary with a LIGHT polishing pad, and LOW speed, but stayed with the 1&Done. THIS time, the difference was literally jaw-dropping and it has stayed corrected - exact same polish, different MACHINE.

Here's what I'm talking about - top = rotary & polishing pad (once). Bottom = DA & heavy cutting pad (twice)

 
Any insight on why the rotary performed so much better on your Camaro?
 
A rotary has much more power. The forced rotation DA's are the way to go since you have less chance of damage. I saw a friend with 40 years experience burn through paint with a rotary.
 
I saw a friend with 40 years experience burn through paint with a rotary.


I managed the same many years ago with my 3401.

It was on the edge of the fender, where paint is really thin.

Lesson learned !
 
A rotary has much more power. The forced rotation DA's are the way to go since you have less chance of damage. I saw a friend with 40 years experience burn through paint with a rotary.

Which is EXACTLY why I used a very low speed and only a LIGHT polishing pad. I don't have a LOT of experience with a rotary - in fact, this was the FIRST time I'd used it on such large areas and wanted to be extra cautious. Even so, I still had to follow up with my DA to get rid of the holograms left by the rotary. Like I mentioned, it was a "Hail Mary," trying to avoid an insurance claim for a repaint (IF they even would have covered it).
 
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