Marks after polishing

Menzerna 2500 is a medium cut , you need to polish again with a fine cut. I use Meguires 205 but there are several finishing polishes in the Menzerna line if you want to stay in that family. If you choose to finish with an AIO, you would have some protection as well as the finishing step.

You can’t really do a one step polish with a medium cut product. It will always leave marks no matter how much you soften up the pad. If you start with a medium cut, you need to add a second step of finishing with a fine polishing/finishing cut.
 
You will need to polish it. I would use Menzerna Super Finish 3500 or 3800. Use a polishing pad.
Have a great day and KEEP ON ROCKING!
 
Thank you. I will try to correct this.

Do you have a tip about rpm and pressure? How many RPM should I set for 3500/3800 Menzerna with polish pad? It is better to put more rpm or low rpm and more pressure to the machine?
 
Set your speed for medium don’t press down too much just let the weight of the machine glide across the surface, move slow… On a 2 x 2 section from right to left , make sure it takes about four seconds.
 
Those are absolutley not marks from finishing with Menzerna 2500. Menzerna finishes down pretty nice.

You would not see markings like that even with Menzerna 400.

Something else is going on....

What vehicle are you working on?
 
locarno said:
Thank you. I will try to correct this.

Do you have a tip about rpm and pressure? How many RPM should I set for 3500/3800 Menzerna with polish pad? It is better to put more rpm or low rpm and more pressure to the machine?
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When you say

RPM

This implies a rotary polisher.

If this car has soft paint, could be holograms you're inflicting into the paint.

Do you have an orbital polisher? If so, re-polish using an orbital and then inspect.



:)
 
What it looks like to me is clear-coat in the early-to-mid stages of failure. The streaks and polisher marks left behind are probably caused by polish residues embedded into the failing/porous surface.

Was this panel very dull and oxidized looking before you started?
 
2black1s said:
What it looks like to me is clear-coat in the early-to-mid stages of failure. The streaks and polisher marks left behind are probably caused by polish residues embedded into the failing/porous surface.

Was this panel very dull and oxidized looking before you started?
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I second this.
 
Agree with what was said above.

Looks like what a dried and oxidized single stage paint would do if you tried to buff out at first round.

Tom
 
Ok let me explain. The paint is VW LC9Z. The car was repainted year ago. My goal was to remove mini scratches visible under direct sunlight. I have a lot of mini scratches from automatic wash. From what I see new paint is very soft compared to OEM VW paint.

I'm using oribtal polisher. Yes, I wrote RPM but I meant speed. What speed I should use? On the polisher there are only steps from 1 to 6 if IIRC. I think I made mistake by putting too much pressure to machine.
 
locarno said:
I think I made mistake by putting too much pressure to machine.
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I really doubt that's it. The DA will stop spinning if you put too much pressure on it.

It's really hard to do damage with a DA. Unless the paint already has some defect like clear coat failure.
 
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