Max Shine on Dark Metallic Paint

kxlexus

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I have a 2013 Ram truck. The paint color is called Maximum Steel Metallic. It is a very dark paint. Depending on the light, it can look dark blue, black, dark grey, or charcoal. There is a LOT of metallic in the paint. I want the paint to look like a mirror and the metallic to pop. What would be the best products to use to make this happen? I am alright spending money on premium products but at the same time, I don't want to waste money either.

Thanks
 
If you want deep, try Pinnacle Souveran
There is also the Blackfire BlackIce.

Other great options are Dodo Juice Supernatural, and Wolfgang Fuzion, and another favorite of mines id Blackfire Midnight Sun, these are between $70-$150, hope that fits your budget. There is also Bouncer's 22. I haven't tried this one but the newest Bouncer wax looks promising with the reviews I have seen, Bouncer's Capture the Rapture, which is a beauty wax with ~2 months durability. I have also seen great results from Auto Finesse Spirit and Desire. In my opinion, no matter which wax you pick, they are all great options and ultimately just add a bit to the paint while protecting it.

More than anything for that "Mirror Finish" is how you polish and Prep it. The LSP (wax) is going to add minimal to the final look. Once you master the polishing/rotary, you will have the results you are seeking.

Depending on how your paint is, a good start is to look at the Menzerna products (106 into 85rd), or Wolfgang Twins (which are made from Menzerna), or just Menzerna FG400 for a one step, or Meguiars M101 and M205. These combinations depend on how soft/hard your paint is and should be used accordingly. Also how much swirls and time you are willing to put into it. You can 3 step, 2 step, or 1 step. The Twins are 2 step, FG400 is 1 step (this is how it is commonly used but you may finish with a even finer polish, depends on your preference), but go from least aggressive on a test spot to see how you like your results, then after go from most aggressive to finishing with least aggressive.

If you do not want to spend the premium price tag but want pretty fantastic results, many other forum members will recommend Collinite 915 (which is pretty affordable) while providing great protection and looks. Collinite 915 paste wax.
 
I am just getting started into detailing. I do have a Porter Cable 7424XP. I am ok spending that amount on wax. I just want my truck to look like a reflecting pool. Would polishing with some 205 increase the shine even though the factory paint is new without any noticeable scratches?
 
I am just getting started into detailing. I do have a Porter Cable 7424XP. I am ok spending that amount on wax. I just want my truck to look like a reflecting pool. Would polishing with some 205 increase the shine even though the factory paint is new without any noticeable scratches?

It is hard to say without seeing any pictures with a light to show the true condition, only you can see it.

First you should wash your car, then get a baggy and see how the paint feels. If it feels like sand, then you need to clay bar it. If it feels smooth, you can wash and go into polishing. Since you say there is minimal swirls, I would recommend

-Wash
-Claybar
-AIO or Glaze (this fills your swirls to make your paint look better)
-LSP

of course this is general, if you need more steps, then add them between the proper steps
 
The only way to really know is to try polishing it. In my experience, it always makes more of a difference. Even brand new cars can use a little love.

Try it out and report back.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using AG Online
 
Also since you are just "starting to detail" don't make the same mistake many of us do, and buy everything, and have like 10 waxes, 9 soaps, 3 compounds, 5 polishes. Look for one product of a specific category, read the reviews, and then just buy one.

For example, I listed 5+ waxes above, do not buy all of them. You only need one. This "hobby" quickly becomes a blackhole for your wallet. If you are just starting, the most basic needs you need are

-Wash mitt (car pro has a $20 wash mitt that works wonders), or you can go with the traditional chenille noodle microfiber wash mitts
-clay bar (or clay bar alternative such as Nanoskin Autoscrub, Speedy Prep Towel)
-A gallon of Shampoo (Chemical Guys Wash n Gloss is very cheap and works well)
-A compound and polish
*note this is just the bare minimum necessities, you may find down the road you need others such as Trix (or Iron X and Tar X), bug removers, quick detailer etc

If you do not have much time to wax your car often, you can also consider a Coating, which makes it more difficult to mar/scratch/swirl your paint after you fully correct it
 
I would guess that you can definitely add gloss to what the manufacturer sends out. My wife purchased a 2012 Camry with "Attitude Black Metallic" last August and it looks way better now than when it had 5 miles on the clock. I would recommend M205 with either white or black pads on your PC followed by a nice sealant. You could even top that with a carnuba if you choose. Rock012345 is spot on with his recommendations as well. Just my .02
 
This topic came up and I copied it to a word doc. I think it is just what you need to read. As you will see, its about making the c/c perfect for the light to catch the flake. All credit goes to Mike Phillips as he originally posted the info.

Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting

One of the goals everyone has that owns a car with a metallic finish is to figure out how to make the metalflake pop.
Pop Definition
By the word "pop", people mean make the pretty, reflective shiny flakes in the basecoat easy to see through the clear coat.
Because the majority of all cars with a metallic paint job have a clear coat over them, there's no way to physically affect the actual metallic flakes under the clear layer of paint. So to get the metallic flake to POP you want to do two thing, the first is the most important.
1. Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
2. Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
Maximize the clarity of the clear coat
The way you maximize the clarity of a clear coat finish is you remove as many of the topical and sub-surface defects as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.

This is done through a combination of the below,
• Wetsanding to remove defects and orange peel
• Compounding to remove deeper below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots
• Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
Maximize the smoothness of the clear coat
The way you maximize the smoothness of the clear coat finish is by removing any above surface bonded contaminants as possible and if you have enough paint on the car, then to remove as much orange peel or surface texture like mottling as possible without compromising or abrading through the clear layer finish.

Keep in mind, anytime you wetsand paint, which removes paint, you're then going to have to compound and polish the paint and both of these procedure will also remove paint, so it's vitally important that you are working on a custom paint job or you have the experience, skill and confidence to carefully wetsand a factory finish.

Maximizing the smoothness is done through a combination of the below,
• Claying the paint or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants
• Wetsanding or dampsanding to remove orange peel, surface texture, mottling
• Compounding to remove and/or level surface imperfections
• Polishing to either refine the results from the compounding step or remove shallow below surface defects like swirls, scratches and water spots where a true compound isn't needed.
Obviously, between the two different goals of maximizing clarity and smoothness there are some overlapping procedures that you can do and which procedures you use will always be determined by the paint itself and your skill level.

Wetsanding paint should be reserved for custom paint jobs where the top coat of clear paint is purposefully sprayed on thicker by the painter because he knows the paint will be wetsanded. Wetsanding can be used by professionals and serious enthusiasts for factory paint jobs if and when the desire is strong enough to overcome the hardness and thinness factors that make sanding factory paint risky.

Besides wetsanding though, the majority of us can safely do the following relatively safely,
• Claying or using a product like the Speedy Surface Prep Towel to remove above surface bonded contaminants.
• Compounding.
• Polishing.
Making the metalflake pop!
Below are the results from the Test Spot I performed to an all original 1968 Firebird Convertible except that it has been repainted with a basecoat/clearcoat finish.

When the car arrived I inspected the paint and documented with video and hi res pictures that the clear layer was in fact filled with swirls and scratches and this was clouding the clear layer hiding the beauty and definition of the metallic flakes in the basecoat.

My Test Spot not only was used to prove my paint polishing system but to also show the owner what the paint could truly look like and in the process make the metallic flake pop.

If you have a metallic or metal flake paint job on your car, truck or suv, you can too can get the metallic finish to pop by evaluating the finish and then doing the practical and safe procedures appropriate to your car's finish and your skill level and maximize the clarity and smoothness of the clear coat.



For this project we used,
Optimum Hyper-Compound
Optimum Hyper-Polish
Optimum Car Wax
Lake Country 5" Hybrid Pads
Lake Country 5.5" Hydro-Tech Pads
Flex 3401 Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher
Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP

Any quality compounds, polishes, pads and tools will create the same results.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...orvette-modeled-amy-janna-pictures-video.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ebird-detailing-class-autogeekonline-net.html
 
I am just getting started into detailing. I do have a Porter Cable 7424XP. I am ok spending that amount on wax. I just want my truck to look like a reflecting pool. Would polishing with some 205 increase the shine even though the factory paint is new without any noticeable scratches?

I've never seen factory paint without some defect, at the very least some orange peel. If you don't notice any serious defects, I would try more of a jeweling polish such as Menzerna 4500. This will increase your gloss if you use it right. However, always remember that you are removing some paint every time you polish so don't go overboard.

Also, how much durability are you looking for? There is no one product that is the best at everything so sometimes the best looks don't last as long.
 
For an lsp I would recommend poorboys nattys red paste wax. It really makes flake pop, smells great, good value, and nice durability.
 
rock012345;902430FG400 is 1 step (this is how it is commonly used but you may finish with a even finer polish said:
Menzerna FG 400 is not a one-step product. It is a heavy-cut compound, similar to M105. Menzerna PF 2500 is more of a one-step product...
 
This topic came up and I copied it to a word doc. I think it is just what you need to read. As you will see, its about making the c/c perfect for the light to catch the flake. All credit goes to Mike Phillips as he originally posted the info.

Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting


The fastest way I bring up the above thread is to copy and paste the above into Google and wa la...


Making the Metallic Flake Pop! - Popping versus Muting



:dblthumb2:
 
I have a 2013 Ram truck. The paint color is called Maximum Steel Metallic. It is a very dark paint. Depending on the light, it can look dark blue, black, dark grey, or charcoal.

There is a LOT of metallic in the paint.

I want the paint to look like a mirror and the metallic to pop.


What would be the best products to use to make this happen? I am alright spending money on premium products but at the same time, I don't want to waste money either.

Thanks



I know exactly what you want... Look very carefully at the BEFORE pictures. Notice how you CANNOT see the beautiful colors of the metallic flake.


Dave's 1977 CanAm Corvette...
600_1977CanAmCorvette01.jpg



It has a wild custom paint job with a beautiful multi-color metallic flake under the clearcoat and our goal will be to restore 100% clarity to the clear coat to really get the metallic flake to *pop* when you look at the finish.


GoldCoastCorvetteClub020.jpg




I can't see the multi-color flake? Where is it?

GoldCoastCorvetteClub021.jpg


GoldCoastCorvetteClub022.jpg


GoldCoastCorvetteClub023.jpg





Now look at the AFTER pictures, notice how the colors JUMP OUT AT YOU!


Here's the multi-color flake!

CanAmCorvette008.jpg


CanAmCorvette009.jpg



Reds and Greens...

CanAmCorvette010.jpg


CanAmCorvette011.jpg


CanAmCorvette012.jpg


CanAmCorvette013.jpg



Purple!

CanAmCorvette014.jpg





All of my write-ups show you how to do the above using just about every "system" available, whether it's tools, pads, products, waxes, sealants or coatings.

You can find all of them in this forum group....


Pictures from Autogeek's Car of the Week

Click the link above, there are 4 pages of write-ups for the various project cars we've buffed out for the last 4 years I've been here at Autogeek. Read through a few, you'll find a brand of product that interests you and if you use them correctly, you'll get the same results we get.



Here's where the above Corvette pictures came from, take a read through...


1977 Can Am Corvette - Modeled by Amy and Janna - Pictures and Video!



:)
 
Thanks everybody! I am getting addicted to this site!
Lots of helpful, nice people.
Right now my plan is to wash, clay, polish with M205, apply GG one step sealer. Let that cure overnight, then top with Blackfire BlackIce. How does that sound?
 
Thanks everybody! I am getting addicted to this site!
Lots of helpful, nice people.
Right now my plan is to wash, clay, polish with M205, apply GG one step sealer. Let that cure overnight, then top with Blackfire BlackIce. How does that sound?

Sounds great, but I'd substitute the GG one step with Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection if you're going to use BlackICE.
 
Would polishing with some 205 increase the shine
even though the factory paint is new without any noticeable scratches?
If this is true about your vehicle's paintwork then I'd opt
for using the following products to "increase the shine":

-3M Imperial Hand Glaze; followed by:
-Either a film-layer of Meguiar's M26 or 3M Show Car Wax...

And then:
Take the vehicle (and your Lady, if available) out for a spin: Enjoy Life for a little bit.

:)

Bob
 
Menzerna FG 400 is not a one-step product. It is a heavy-cut compound, similar to M105. Menzerna PF 2500 is more of a one-step product...

You are correct that it is not a true one-step, such as an AIO, but it is used as a one-step due to how it finishes LSP ready without a need for a finer polish
 
You are correct that it is not a true one-step, such as an AIO, but it is used as a one-step due to how it finishes LSP ready without a need for a finer polish

While I'm not disagreeing with what you say (it's a common statement afterall), I question why anyone would stop at FG 400 when a finishing polish can provide a much better polish. Todd Helme posted a comparison between M105 and FG 400 over at Autopia. Although both products finished out nicely with a finishing pad (jeweling), neither was perfect. To me, finishing with FG 400 is like finishing sanding with 100 grit sandpaper. Sure, it may look fine, but it could look so much nicer if you finished up with 3000 or even 5000. While the finer grits do remove paint, much like the finishing polishes would, it seems like so much is being left on the table. That's the way I see it anyway.
 
i like Menz SF4500 on dark colours.

here is my black ram polished with 4500 and Opti Guarded.

here are shine shots...with that mirror like reflection youre speaking of.





and here is flake shot...this was with OPT finish polish...i foudn the Menz worked better on the Dodge paint FWIW.

 
While I'm not disagreeing with what you say (it's a common statement afterall), I question why anyone would stop at FG 400 when a finishing polish can provide a much better polish. Todd Helme posted a comparison between M105 and FG 400 over at Autopia. Although both products finished out nicely with a finishing pad (jeweling), neither was perfect. To me, finishing with FG 400 is like finishing sanding with 100 grit sandpaper. Sure, it may look fine, but it could look so much nicer if you finished up with 3000 or even 5000. While the finer grits do remove paint, much like the finishing polishes would, it seems like so much is being left on the table. That's the way I see it anyway.

Dangit, I meant 1000 grit...
 
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