Meguiars #21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0?

Caleb@ImpeccableImage

Caleb@ImpeccableImage

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I was wondering if any of you members have used this product before and what your thoughts and opinions are on it and just overall how you liked it. I'm in the market for a new sealant. The sealant I used before this was BFWD and I enjoyed it but I'd like to try something new :). From what I've read online about the #21 it seems like a fantastic product. It appealed to me initially because 1) affordable 2) good reviews 3) I'm a big fan of Megs products lol. Looking forward to hearing from those of you that have used this :buffing:
 
Its a great product, its the pro version of NXT 2.0. Some of the things I really like about it is the ease of use, mild cleaners, swirl filling and overall looks. Works great on so many colors and conditions of paint.
 
I have used it many times. Great product, I use it with Meguiars DA and a microfiber finishing pad. Apply it evenly to the entire surface then I let it dry for 10 or 15 mins. Once it has been removed you will get a nice smooth, slick and very reflective surface. Also, it is long lasting. Another plus is you get 64 oz for the price. Making it even a product then the rest.

Sent from my PC36100 using AG Online
 
Hearing you talk about it makes me excited to try it now. Looks like I'll go ahead and order some. I'm also contemplating applying this over megs #7 show car finishing glaze. Should produce an impeccable finish!
 
PapaSmurf said:
Hearing you talk about it makes me excited to try it now. Looks like I'll go ahead and order some. I'm also contemplating applying this over megs #7 show car finishing glaze. Should produce an impeccable finish!
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Hi PapaSmurf...

Please let me know how this #21 2.0 over/atop #7 works out for you.

FWIW...
I have only applied a:
Non-cleaning, finishing-wax, such as Meg's #26, over/atop a film-layer of Meg's #7.


Also:
IMHO...Meg's #21 2.0 is an excellent sealant. I trust you'll appreciate having used it.

Again...
On many occasions: I have used non-cleaning, finishing waxes atop #21 2.0...
after its cure-time (please see instructions)...

For me...A: Meg's #26 atop #21 2.0 combo...is, indeed, a beautiful sight to behold!

As such:
I'm now generally beholden to maintain that combo's expressive-visuals
with one of the assorted spray waxes.
Examples:
-Meg's Ultimate
-OCW

:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Hi PapaSmurf...

Please let me know how this #21 2.0 over/atop #7 works out for you.

FWIW...
I have only applied a:
Non-cleaning, finishing-wax, such as Meg's #26, over/atop a film-layer of Meg's #7.


Also:
IMHO...Meg's #21 2.0 is an excellent sealant. I trust you'll appreciate having used it.

Again...
On many occasions: I have used non-cleaning, finishing waxes atop #21 2.0...
after its cure-time (please see instructions)...

For me...A: Meg's #26 atop #21 2.0 combo...is, indeed, a beautiful sight to behold!

As such:
I'm now generally beholden to maintain that combo's expressive-visuals
with one of the assorted spray waxes.
Examples:
-Meg's Ultimate
-OCW

:)

Bob
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info and advice Bob :dblthumb2:. I'll be sure to share the results with you and everyone else. It's funny you mention the #26 wax because I'm contemplating using it as my lsp. Be on the lookout for a thread of me correcting my 03 Mustang GT around March or a little sooner :buffing:.
 
You do not need the 7 first. It will remove it first off, and 7 was designed for single stage. Just let it dry long enough. I use ultimate spray wax over it to make sure of no streaks
 
I would skip the M07 and just go straight to M21. Reason being is yeah you will get better looks but like any glaze it will only last a few days.

If you want the carnuba look & durability to go along with it, do M21 & let it cure for at least 12 hours. Then top it off with M26.

If your in the market to try out sealants, consider Menzerna PowerLock as well. I put its durability longer than M21. Think of it as Collinite 845 but with alot better looks.

Mike lambert said:
You do not need the 7 first. It will remove it first off, and 7 was designed for single stage. Just let it dry long enough. I use ultimate spray wax over it to make sure of no streaks
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M21 does not have cleaners, so your wrong when stating it will remove #7. Yes #7 was designed originally for SS paints, but like any glaze it is compatible with CC paint systems.

You only need to let M21 dry for 5-10 minutes, and if you applied it CORRECTLY (thin) you dont need spray wax or QD to remove it, and it wont streak.
 
Don't get #7, I got some and hated it and a total PIA to get off completely!
 
CM8 6MT said:
I would skip the M07 and just go straight to M21. Reason being is yeah you will get better looks but like any glaze it will only last a few days.

If you want the carnuba look & durability to go along with it, do M21 & let it cure for at least 12 hours. Then top it off with M26.

If your in the market to try out sealants, consider Menzerna PowerLock as well. I put its durability longer than M21. Think of it as Collinite 845 but with alot better looks.


M21 does not have cleaners, so your wrong when stating it will remove #7. Yes #7 was designed originally for SS paints, but like any glaze it is compatible with CC paint systems.

You only need to let M21 dry for 5-10 minutes, and if you applied it CORRECTLY (thin) you dont need spray wax or QD to remove it, and it wont streak.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the helpful info. I guess Ill just skip the #7, however i do have some cg ez creme I may try. My car is garaged 90% of the time so I,m not to worried about the durability wearing off. The car is mainly ran at the drag strip and occasionally driven on the weekends and to work.

Also I'm glad you verified that m21 isnt a cleaner. I actually talked to the guys at Meguiars on the phone today about that and they said the same thing you just did about it being just as effective on cc paint and that its able to be topped with a sealant. Im going to be applying the M21 via DA on an LC crimson hydrotech pad. Do I need to prime the entire pad or just add a few pea sized drops and add more product to the pad as needed?
 
PapaSmurf said:
I actually talked to the guys at Meguiars on the phone today about that and they said the same thing you just did about it being just as effective on cc paint and that its able to be topped with a sealant.
Click to expand...

Oh what do you know, maybe that CM8 kid isnt talking out of his you know what, unlike some people.

Yes try CG EZ Creme Glaze, I recommend it over #7. As far as priming your hydrotech, thats a yes. Just be aware that M21 will stain your trim if you leave it there to dry. I personally apply most of my LSP's by machine, but a sealant like M21 I prefer to do it by hand for the following reasons:

1. You can apply thin alot better by hand than machine. Just 4 drops can cover an entire hood, vs using more product to get the pad primed.

2. You can control where you apply the product better.

An alternative would be to use a 3-4" pad by machine if you wanted to apply it faster & more efficiently.
 
CM8 6MT said:
Oh what do you know, maybe that CM8 kid isnt talking out of his you know what, unlike some people.

Yes try CG EZ Creme Glaze, I recommend it over #7. As far as priming your hydrotech, thats a yes. Just be aware that M21 will stain your trim if you leave it there to dry. I personally apply most of my LSP's by machine, but a sealant like M21 I prefer to do it by hand for the following reasons:

1. You can apply thin alot better by hand than machine. Just 4 drops can cover an entire hood, vs using more product to get the pad primed.

2. You can control where you apply the product better.

An alternative would be to use a 3-4" pad by machine if you wanted to apply it faster & more efficiently.
Click to expand...

Awesome, I will remember this. Thanks :props:
 
CM8 6MT said:
M21 does not have cleaners, so your wrong when stating it will remove #7. Yes #7 was designed originally for SS paints, but like any glaze it is compatible with CC paint systems.
Click to expand...

Take a crayon, a sharpee, and some tar if you can find it. Write I believe what Meguiars says on your paint. Then grab some M21 and wipe it all off easily.
 
yakky said:
Take a crayon, a sharpee, and some tar if you can find it. Write I believe what Meguiars says on your paint. Then grab some M21 and wipe it all off easily.
Click to expand...

Hmmm any specific type of Crayon? Im a fan of Crayolas, but you know what they say about RoseArt
 
CM8 6MT said:
I would skip the M07 and just go straight to M21. Reason being is yeah you will get better looks but like any glaze it will only last a few days.

If you want the carnuba look & durability to go along with it, do M21 & let it cure for at least 12 hours. Then top it off with M26.

You only need to let M21 dry for 5-10 minutes, and if you applied it CORRECTLY (thin) you dont need spray wax or QD to remove it, and it wont streak.
Click to expand...

:whs: :dblthumb2:

CM8 6MT said:
Oh what do you know, maybe that CM8 kid isnt talking out of his you know what, unlike some people.

Yes try CG EZ Creme Glaze, I recommend it over #7. As far as priming your hydrotech, thats a yes. Just be aware that M21 will stain your trim if you leave it there to dry. I personally apply most of my LSP's by machine, but a sealant like M21 I prefer to do it by hand for the following reasons:

1. You can apply thin alot better by hand than machine. Just 4 drops can cover an entire hood, vs using more product to get the pad primed.

2. You can control where you apply the product better.

An alternative would be to use a 3-4" pad by machine if you wanted to apply it faster & more efficiently.
Click to expand...

:iagree:... sorta.... and to add, even though you do end up putting a lot in a pad to prime it, I like machine applying much better. I mean, it's not so expensive that a bottle doesn't give 2 coats on a dozen different cars. ;)

Also, #7 really doesn't have like ANY durability. It's great for a weekend drive in car show, but spend a few days there, dew falling every morning, all the wiping and shining and it'll be worn off by the time you get home. :dunno:
 
I love to use 2.0. Goes on smooth ad comes off super easy. I have a test in works on a vehicle I detailed a couple weeks ago. Country dirt roads, hard water, and plenty of bug guts. Cant wait to see if its still holding up, the next time we visit.


CM8 6MT said:
Hmmm any specific type of Crayon? Im a fan of Crayolas, but you know what they say about RoseArt
Click to expand...

LoL!
 
Thank you. I'm just going to use my CG EZ Cream in place of the M7 if I do end up using a glaze.
 
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