Hi guys, well a have a brand new bottle from Megs Machine Glaze #3 sitting and I really want to use it, but I have a couple of questions:
My car is already with Klasse High Gloss Sealant applied:
- Will #3 take klasse sealant off ?
For questions like these it helps to frame the question in extremes... first let me say that #3 like #7 is non-abrasive, that is there is nothing in the formula with the intended purpose of abrading the paint.
Now for the extreme...
When applying any product, you have the product, the application material and the "action" that is whatever the process is for applying the product with the material.
Even a smooth, creamy lotion type product can have a cleaning effect as the result from moving it over and against the surface with some type of application material.
Question: Will applying #3 Machine Glaze
add Klasse Sealant Glaze to the paint?
Answer: The answer of course is "no"
Now ask yourself... what's the opposite of
adding...
You're either doing one thing or the other when rubbing a product over a painted surface.
Klasse Sealant Glaze is an actual sealant, so I doubt you would push much of the polishing oils past this layer to the surface of the paint. If you want to apply the #3 to the paint then remove the sealant first.
See this article,
Factors that affect how aggressive or non-aggressive a product is
- Will a clear coat soak in anyway the oils in it ? (I saw Mike's post where he let a good amount of #3 or #7 soak into a single stage paint and it was night and day difference)
I've posted this a lot in the past but I'm pretty sure most people gloss over it... pun intended...
A brand new basecoat/clearcoat paint job, either from the factory or a body shop is very impermeable, that is non-porous. It's solid.
As time goes by and the car sees wear-n-tear, compounding, washing, etc. the clear coat becomes more opened up. It's still not porous like a single stage but I've witnessed first hand polishing oils penetrating into a clear coat at least to some degree and to some level but still very topical. The result is a darkening or clarifying effect and wiping the "surface" with a microfiber does not undo the effect. That means whatever took place took place below the surface. Remember microfiber is "microscopic" fibers and these tiny fibers can get into the hills and valleys of a clear coat finish but they can't get into the pockets and pores or interstices...
- #3 is said for a rotary, can I apply it with a DA ? (AG says it can go with DA but #3 label clear states that #7 is the DA version)
When #3 came out sometime in the 1930's or 1940's for the most part there were only rotary buffers. The TOB or Traditional Orbital Buffer didn't come along till I think the 1950's as did the Cyclo.
Basically, #3 was for machine polishing or glazing single stage paint and #7 was for hand glazing paint. #3 was and is a wetter version of #7.
- How do you like to apply it ?
By hand, DA, Rotary, Cyclo, Flex, TOB, anyway you like, it's actually a very versatile non-abrasive pure polish.
When I used to work at all the World of Wheel Shows and Portland, Tacoma and Seattle Roadster Shows I met a lot of old timers that applied #3 by
hand.
- Will it just wash off the paint after the first water fluid touches it ?
Not like most people explain that it leaves like this... :bolt:
But it is water soluble and if you're applying it to a clear coat finish in good condition there's really not a lot places for it to go except on the surface.
With a porous single stage it will seep in and thus won't simply wash off the surface.
Now there's a lot of factors involved with washing a car like using a non-detergent was or a detergent wash and a detergent wash used on a porous single stage paint will leach out any polishing oils. This will promote oxidation.
How to maintain a freshly waxed car
- When applied before LSP, will it interfere with a Wax or Sealant durability ?
You'll get a lot of opinions on this and some people will tend to even get very emotional over this topic, so fair warning.
I have an article that I'll include below but suffice to say,
Follow the directions from the manufacture of the wax, sealant or coating you're using. If they say their product needs a oil free surface for their specific protection ingredients to bond to the paint then listen to them.
Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding
Well.. just a couple of questions like I said... :laughing:
And the above is the art of dissecting a post by
expanding the message box using the
Editor Mode and then also using the
multi-quote option provided by vBulletin.
One more article,
A tip to help yourself get great answers when you start a thread
