Meguiars Gold Class vs. M26

[truckbutt]

I'm a long time user of M26 as a LSP. It gives a very rich, wet looking shine. Yesterday I tried Megs Gold Class Wax and the look was identical on a black car. The Gold Class seemed to be a little harder to wipe off and dusted a little more. Is anyone aware of the chemical or performance differences if any between the two waxes, or is it just in the packaging, consumer vs. professional line?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Typically a Consumer Product will be formulated for ease of use because it's targeted at Joe Consumer.

Most retail waxes fall into the category of cleaner/waxes because the average person is working on a daily driver and needs some cleaning action to help prepare the paint so the protection ingredients can bond better.

I have not tried the new and improved version of Gold Class but in the past the label copy noted that it cleans. The cleaning action is probably pretty light, not like a true cleaner/wax.

I have found historically, most people apply it too thick and this leads to difficult wipe off any wax or sealant.

 

[truckbutt]

The information that Megs provides on this product is confusing. The Gold Class container that I am using indicates that you should use a cleaner first it there are defscts. The Online catalog indicates that it will remove swirls. That suggests it has a cleaner in it. I gues I'll have to call Meguiars to find out.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The information that Megs provides on this product is confusing. The Gold Class container that I am using indicates that you should use a cleaner first it there are defects. The Online catalog indicates that it will remove swirls. That suggests it has a cleaner in it. I guess I'll have to call Meguiars to find out.

The reason the container says to use a cleaner first is so that you bet the best results. As I posted already, while the product might have some light cleaning ability, it's not intended to restore a neglected finish. Thus if your car's paint is neglected you should first use a dedicated paint cleaner, compound polish, (whatever it takes to restore the paint to like new condition), and then when you use the Gold Class you'll be happy because you'll get "best results".


Do call Meguiar's or post to their forum and even share the link to what I posted here...


I type these questions all the time... people tend to leave out the 'little' details... :laughing:

• What are you working on?
• What condition is the paint?
• What is your goal? (show car? good enough to sell, daily driver?)

rops:

 

[truckbutt]

I'm working on a black 2011 Mustang GT. I want it to look mint. I usually use M205, when needed followed by M26 every few weeks or a Meguiars or Mothers cleaner/wax followed by M26 every few weeks. If the Gold Class has cleaners in it, then I suspect I'm losing the previous layers of M26. If that's the case, I'm not sure that's what I want.

 

[PBoy]

I'm a fan of #26's "wet look" too.

I think it's one of the best values out there.

 

[Dr Oldz]

If it is any help I found M26 paste to last longer! As far as applying and removal I found them to be pretty close with the very slight edge going to M26! I did not really have a problem with gold class dusting tho! I hope this helps u!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

• I'm working on a black 2011 Mustang GT.
• I want it to look mint.
• I usually use M205, when needed followed by M26 every few weeks or a Meguiars or Mothers cleaner/wax followed by M26 every few weeks.

Very good.

If the Gold Class has cleaners in it, then I suspect I'm losing the previous layers of M26. If that's the case, I'm not sure that's what I want.

I'll take a guess that in the Online detailing world, I've written more about the topic of layering than anyone I know. There are two very seasoned threads on MOL on the topic of layering in the "Hot Topics" forum that go into great detail on the topic.


What's funny is that in the old days... people worried about waxing too often and getting a wax build-up.

Fast forward to the approximate year 2002 and via discussion forums the negative idea of creating a wax build-up is turned upside down into a positive idea called "layering".


I've seen people post that they have 30, 60, 90, 100+ layers of protection on their car's paint. I've read a post by a guy that claimed had so many layers of protection on his car's paint that you could no longer tell where the edge of clear bra on his car was because of the built-up layers of protection on the paint next to it.


Here's the truth, a paint surface will only hold so much wax or paint sealant and then you hit the point of diminishing returns. That is adding more and more product doesn't mean a thicker and thicker layer of protection.

Anything that can be layered and built-up on the surface must start out optically clear or it will cloud the finish.

If the car is a daily driver, then using a product with just a sleight ability to clean the surface is actually a good thing as it will give you the best results overall and if you wax often then it's a non-issue if in fact it removes a little of any previously applied product.

Clear coat paint technology is pretty tuff stuff to start with, all a wax or paint sealant can do is slow down anything corrosive enough to harm the paint and anything that's corrosive enough to harm the paint is usually corrosive enough to eat past the layer of protection, no matter how many layers have been applied.

For example Bird Droppings and some water sources in which the substances in the water will actually leave Type II Water Spots "in" the paint, not on the paint, regardless of the type of wax or paint sealant you use.

Maybe check with Meguiar's for the official word on whether there are any cleaning agents in the new and improved Gold Class Wax but if there are it's intended to be a benefit, not negative aspect. And of course if there are and that's not something you need or want in your choice of wax then there are other options like the M26 you're already using.


One thing I know, when a good chemist includes ingredients in a product, it's usually for one of two reasons and most the time both...

1. A benefit to the process
2. A benefit to the user

Ingredients are not added to formulas without reason. But that's why there are different types of products... something for everyone's needs and wants...