meguiars ultimate compound

choijw2

choijw2

New member
Jul 25, 2015
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So i tried meguiars ultimate compound for the first time yesterday on a BLACK bmw x3. (just small spot to test)

tools wise, i used GG 3" DA with hydrotech blue foam pad with speed set at 5
I know this isn't really good set up, but it did remove good amount of swirls but paint came out little bit milky, which i did not expected at all.

my understanding is that this product is one step polishing, so I should be able to seal/ wax right after this compound...

i also tried less aggressive pad so i dont think pad choice was the issue.

what did i do wrong? maybe i didn't polish long enough?


:buffing:
 
I use UC on my 335, and have no issues with milky paint or hazing. You can use it as one step, though I always follow up with Ultimate Polish to ensure all the fine scratches are removed.

On another car I did find some hazing or build up of UC, but found that it was due to using too much and it drying out on the pad. I have since made sure that I prime my pads with a small spritz of detailing spray, use only a tiny amount of UC or UP after loading the pad, and occasionally spritzing with detailing spray when the pad feels somewhat dry. Also, don't forget to clean the pad on the go.
 
thank you for your respond roguerobot.

maybe I did use too much and thats what caused the haze.
I tested on maybe 6 sq inch area and used 3 small dots on 3" pad.

I did prime the pad before use,
i spread the compound all over the pad with my finger and gave one quick spray before use.
 
choijw2 said:
tools wise, i used GG 3" DA with hydrotech blue foam pad with speed set at 5
I know this isn't really good set up,

my understanding is that this product is one step polishing, so I should be able to seal/ wax right after this compound...
Click to expand...
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound often can be the one
and only step needed before LSP applications.
Let me emphasize that: Often can...not always can!!

Note:
I agree with your evaluatin on your "set-up":
Could be the root cause of the milky looking result.


Regardless...In this particular case:
An additional polishing step using a less aggressive
product...such as Meguiar's M205...may be just what
is needed to clear up the milky haze.

:idea:
An even less aggressive polish, like Meguiar's
Ultimate Polish, might also do the trick.


Bob
 
choijw2 said:
my understanding is that this product is one step polishing, so I should be able to seal/ wax right after this compound...
Click to expand...

Not exactly a one-step product. The normal process for buffing on scratch-sensitive clearcoat paints is,

Compound
Polish
Wax

It's possible to get away ONLY with the Meguiar's UC but this depends on two factors.

1. The color of the car - Black is usually not a color you can get away with only using a compound.

2. Your expectations for the words.... good looking finish - Again, black is not the best color for a one-step process using a compound.


choijw2 said:
i also tried less aggressive pad so i dont think pad choice was the issue.

what did i do wrong? maybe i didn't polish long enough?
Click to expand...


My experience is when buffing with small pads there's an increased risk for leaving marring versus larger pads. You're using a very small pad.

Meguiar's UC is a SMAT product and in simple terms you can buff with short or long buffing cycles as it is not as sensitive for the need to buff long enough to break down any abrasives.

I think you're going to need a true polish and a softer pad and if you're serious about buffing out this car or any car then you should look at adding a full size DA Polisher to your tool collection and of course larger pads.

Maybe look at open cell FOAM pads instead of closed cell foam pads too like the Lake Country 5.5" Flat pads or the B&S 5.5" Flat pads or the Meguiar's 5.5" Foam discs.

All great choices.


:)
 
Thank you all for the great answers!!!

I am looking into trying out M105 M205 combo
also menzerna products with meguairs MT300
 
choijw2 said:
Thank you all for the great answers!!!

I am looking into trying out M105 M205 combo
also menzerna products with meguairs MT300
Click to expand...

Keep the Ult Compound and get M205. 105 CAN be a bit on the tricky side, as in...not real user friendly at times.

Remember Ult Compound is derived from 105, you can safely say, they're 'kissin' cousins'.

Bill
 
I don't think this has anything to do with it but when using my GG3" I have never used any speed setting other than 6. I have gone through 3 bottles of Meg's UC over the years and its always performed well for me, hope you sort things out OP!

BTW, flat, mf pads work great on the GG3" machine when doing corrections, really helps the machine keep the pad rotating AND does a much better job.
 
Klasse Act said:
I don't think this has anything to do with it but when using my GG3" I have never used any speed setting other than 6.
Click to expand...

Same here when doing paint polishing.

For machine sanding you can get away with 4 an 5



Klasse Act said:
BTW, flat, mf pads work great on the GG3" machine when doing corrections, really helps the machine keep the pad rotating AND does a much better job.
Click to expand...


I agree.... has to do with....

Thin is in


Like this....


This is me tackling the iconic front grill using the Griot's Garage 3" Mini Polisher using an Optimum 3.25" Microfiber Pad with Hyper-Polish.

I now the question everyone wants to ask and here is the answer...

YES the 3" Mini Polisher was able to maintain pad rotation. I started with the upper potions and worked downward and wiped the residue off as I worked... look how shiny and glossy the paint is after using the 3" Mini Polisher. The 3" Mini Polisher also makes a great Dampsander for spot repair.

54Ford86.jpg


54Ford87.jpg



Finished....

54Ford105.jpg



1954 Ford F-100 - Extreme Makeover - Process and products used


:xyxthumbs:
 
roguerobot said:
Likewise Ult Polish is based on M205.

Originally M105/M205 were developed in the days of rotary buffers. Ult versions have been developed for DAs.

But they are not apparently equivalent, at least not by this:
Click to expand...


The word is similar.

They are not identical but they are similar.

The needs of a professional in the body shop industry are much different than the needs of Joe Consumer.

Product formulated for the retail consumer market have to be bubba-proofed so they are a better match for the lowest common denominator.

Typically, guys that work in body shops compound and polish for a living and have a higher skill, experience and knowledge level than car enthusiasts that detail their cars once or twice a year.


:)
 
A blue hydrotech with ultimate compound on a jet black bmw is a recipe for haze. Give ultimate polish a run with a softer pad and I would imagine you will have a mirror shine!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Thank you all for the great respond!!

this question just came to me,

what happens if you use high cutting pads with low to no cutting compound?
and what happens if you use low cutting pads with high cutting like, rubbing compounds
 
choijw2 said:
Thank you all for the great respond!!

this question just came to me,

what happens if you use high cutting pads with low to no cutting compound?
and what happens if you use low cutting pads with high cutting like, rubbing compounds
Click to expand...

I am by no means an expert so keep that in mind. I believe most products are at least somewhat pad dependent, meaning the amount of cut they provide depends on the aggressiveness of the pad used. Generally cutting pads are best suited for compounds and polishing pads for polishes though.
 
Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
Maybe look at open cell phone pads

Mike Phillips said:
Maybe look at open cell phone pads instead of closed cell foam pads too like the Lake Country 5.5" Flat pads or the B&S 5.5" Flat pads or the Meguiar's 5.5" Foam discs.
Click to expand...

davey g-force said:
Huh? :confused: :dunno: :laughing:
Click to expand...


I meant foam not phone


That's called typing faster than I can think!

I fixed it....


:laughing:
 
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