Menzerma PO 115C

[kaboom10]

I bought a quart of this and decided to try it today before it got to cold. It being a finishing glaze I thought about giving it a try on a panel with swirls in it that Megs caused. I really liked the way it removed the swirls and I want to get some more of this brand. The white LC pad I used had a lot of dirt on it when I was done. I read that PO85U will remove 2500 grit sand paper scratches. That would really helpwith the wet sanding project. Now PO203 has also caught my eye. I'm getting confused. Move this thread if it's in the wrong place.Feed back please

 

[frosty]

Did you clay your car before the Meg's? What color pad did you use with the Meg's? If it's really dirt, Meg's wouldn't have caused it I couldn't imagine.

Also, what brand of meg's do you use? I assume something like M105 if you see swirls. It would seem unlikely unless you spent a long time with the PO115 that it got out major swirls. Do you have any before and after pix?

PO 203 is just under P0 85RD. I've not had any luck getting wetsanding marks out with it and I finish with 3000 UnitGrit.

I tested trying to get them out in one or two sessions with an orange and Yellow CCS.

I've found either the Power Gloss or Meg's #105 with an LCS Purple 6.5 wool pad does really well in a short amount of time. I follow up with M205 with a white pad or the Menzerna Super (Nano) Finish.

Search on Brillo Pad and you can find a post I did.

Also, check out this link. It'll give you the cutting ability of the Menzerna polishes.

Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna compound,

 

[mbkite]

po115 glaze I just put it on by hand and let dry and wipe off..
Do you put it on with a machine.

 

[Rsurfer]

I bought a quart of this and decided to try it today before it got to cold. It being a finishing glaze I thought about giving it a try on a panel with swirls in it that Megs caused. I really liked the way it removed the swirls and I want to get some more of this brand. The white LC pad I used had a lot of dirt on it when I was done. I read that PO85U will remove 2500 grit sand paper scratches. That would really helpwith the wet sanding project. Now PO203 has also caught my eye. I'm getting confused. Move this thread if it's in the wrong place.Feed back please

I can't see how PO115 removed swirls. Do an IPA wipe down and your swirls will reappear. It has no cut and is a finishing glaze. Both PO203 and PO85U has the same cut which is medium, but PO203 has a higher gloss level. You need to study Menzerna's Chart before buying more products that you may or may not need.:cheers:

 

[Waxmax]

PO203 gloss level 3.8.....85U= 4.5

 

[Rsurfer]

PO203 gloss level 3.8.....85U= 4.5

Maybe my chart is old, but I have PO203 with a gloss level of 5 and 85U with a gloss level of 4. Never seen a 3.8 before.

 

[DARK HORSE]

Here is the current chart posted on AG's website. Cut =3.5 Gloss=3.8.

Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna compound,

 

[DARK HORSE]

Here is a link to the current chart on Menzerna's website. Looks the same.

http://www.menzernausa.com/Charts/LiquidChart.tiff

 

[Rsurfer]

Here is the current chart posted on AG's website. Cut =3.5 Gloss=3.8.

Menzerna Polishing Compounds Products, menzerna polishes, menzerna car polish, menzerna nano polish, menzerna final polish, menzerna compound,

Thanks Tad, I guess my chart is out dated, but it seems funny that the old chart showed 87mc cut/1 and now it's cut/2. 85rd had a cut/1.5 and now it's cut/1. PO115 had 0 cut and now it has a cut of .5...go figure!!

 

[kaboom10]

My question still is what would be the next best product to use to cut the spider webs out? I mistakenly said swirls.

Edit: Huge picture removed, new 800 pixel wide picture inserted - Mike Phillips

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

I bought a quart of this and decided to try it today before it got to cold. It being a finishing glaze I thought about giving it a try on a panel with swirls in it that Megs caused.

A little more information.

• Which Meguiar's product are you saying caused swirls.
• How did you apply it? Type of machine or by hand?
• Type of buffing pad?

Maybe the problem isn't the product?

????

I really liked the way it removed the swirls and I want to get some more of this brand. The white LC pad I used had a lot of dirt on it when I was done.

Dirt on the pad? Did you wash the car before buffing on it?

I read that PO85U will remove 2500 grit sand paper scratches. That would really helpwith the wet sanding project.

Let's start a new dedicated thread for this topic instead of mixing it in with the current topic. It helps you to get better answers. :xyxthumbs:

What are you going to sand?

Now PO203 has also caught my eye. I'm getting confused. Move this thread if it's in the wrong place.

Let's start a new dedicated thread for this topic instead of mixing it in with the current topic. It helps you to get better answers. :xyxthumbs:


I'm here to help as are our other forum members but here's a tip,

Limit your message to just 3-4 questions

Here's a portion from the above thread,


Start a new thread for a new topic
After you get your answers to one topic, for example how to remove swirls; if you have questions about how to remove ink stains out of leather, don't simply tag them onto the thread about removing swirls out of car paint, instead start a new dedicated thread



Thanks!

 

[kaboom10]

OOPS excuse the noob in me.

A little more information.

• Which Meguiar's product are you saying caused swirls.
• The heavy and medium cuts available locally
• How did you apply it? Type of machine or by hand?
• Machine applied with a rotary machine removed by hand using a microfiber towel.
• Type of buffing pad?
• Whie LC pad for applying product

Maybe the problem isn't the product?

????





Quote:
Originally Posted by kaboom10
I really liked the way it removed the swirls and I want to get some more of this brand. The white LC pad I used had a lot of dirt on it when I was done.

Dirt on the pad? Did you wash the car before buffing on it?

I never do anything without the truck being washed first.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Here's your picture with the fluff cropped out so it's only 800 pixels wide...

Hang on and I'll delete the humongous picture as it's forcing me and everyone who reads this thread to horizontal scroll.

I placed this and the other one into you gallery here on AG by the way as pictures hosted on Photobucket tend to turn into red x's over time.

 

[kaboom10]

Thanx Mike. I didn't know that. They were all cell phone pics. The lights don't show the actual color. It looked like I polished off dirt. The color is dark blue but all that particular panel had was the megs heavy and medium cut compounds applied by a rotary turned down to 1200-1500 rpm. Could it be paint????

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

.

The heavy and medium cuts available locally

Machine applied with a rotary machine removed by hand using a microfiber towel.

So it was #1 and #4 in the picture below?

 

[kaboom10]

So it was #1 and #4 in the picture below?

That's the culprits. lol

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The color is dark blue

Clear coated though correct? You're working on a clear coat finish? The basecoat might be blue but you're actually working on clear paint?

but all that particular panel had was the megs heavy and medium cut compounds applied by a rotary turned down to 1200-1500 rpm.

Those products came out in the 1920's or 1930's and while they still have a strong following the problem with them is they are old school product originally intended to be used on single stage paints and when working on clear coats they will leave swirls in the paint UNTIL you follow them with a less aggressive cleaner/polish.

Could it be paint????

No, you just don't have enough steps in your process. These are both heavy cutters, buffing out paint isn't a grinding process, it's a polishing process, you need to follow these product with a less aggressive product and pad.

In the Meguiar's line that would be a cleaner/polish, that is a product that has some bite but not near as much as the M01 or M04

When you moved to the Menzerna PO 115C you were using a very light polish which is taking the place of a cleaner/polish in the Meguiar's line that most people would have used after the first to aggressive product you used.

It's not critical that you use a Meguiar's finishing polish just that you complete the process by using any company's finishing polish. Blaming the M01 and M04 for leaving your finish with swirls wasn't actually the products fault, they are not intended to leave a swirl free finish, they are formulated to be aggressive cutters to remove serious paint defects and then after using them the operator is supposed to follow them with a less aggressive product.

It being a finishing glaze I thought about giving it a try on a panel with swirls in it that Megs caused.

At this point, if the Menzerna PO 115C is removing the haze and swirls left by the Meguiar's product then keep going with it, if not then you probably need a more aggressive product like the PO85RD or maybe even something more aggressive, you won't know till you do a few test spots and then chemically strip your test spot and inspect.

Definitely don't go over the entire truck until you dial in a system that works to just one small section.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Lately I've been posting a lot of information on including a DA Polisher for your final polishing step to INSURE you have a swirl free finish after using a rotary buffer.

I've actually been typing about this for about 15 years now online. I don't have any intention of forcing anyone to believe me so for what's it's worth, you can try to get a flawless, swirl free finish using ONLY a rotary buffer or you can follow your rotary buffer steps with a dual action polisher and get the job done. Either way is okay with me... a flawless, swirl free finish can be achieved using only a rotary buffer but usually it requires a number of things like skill and experience, (lots of experience), the right pads, products, techniques and the one factor no one has any control over, the right paint.


Here's two recent threads on this very topic where our forum membership tried to help other forum member get swirl free finishes using ONLY a rotary buffer and it wasn't until they did they're last finishing steps with a DA style polisher that they achieved success.

So when you have the time and inclination click on the links and read the threads and then you can decide if you want to finish with a rotary only and go to wax, (which will hid any swirls left in the paint), and this is plenty good for most people or use a DA Polisher for your last finishing step and then go to wax.


Read this thread, my reply kicks in on page 4

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum.../21832-4-part-process-still-has-swirls-4.html


And then this thread which is actually linked to on page 4 of the above thread.

What am I doing wrong - Holograms after using the rotary buffer

 

[kaboom10]

Clear coated though correct? You're working on a clear coat finish? The basecoat might be blue but you're actually working on clear paint?

YES the clearcoat only.

Those products came out in the 1920's or 1930's and while they still have a strong following the problem with them is they are old school product originally intended to be used on single stage paints and when working on clear coats they will leave swirls in the paint UNTIL you follow them with a less aggressive cleaner/polish.

Then I made the mistake of NOT going to the automotive paint store and pick their brains then?

No, you just don't have enough steps in your process. These are both heavy cutters, buffing out paint isn't a grinding process, it's a polishing process, you need to follow these product with a less aggressive product and pad.

So shame on me for expecting a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

In the Meguiar's line that would be a cleaner/polish, that is a product that has some bite but not near as much as the M01 or M04

When you moved to the Menzerna PO 115C you were using a very light polish which is taking the place of a cleaner/polish in the Meguiar's line that most people would have used after the first to aggressive product you used.

It's not critical that you use a Meguiar's finishing polish just that you complete the process by using any company's finishing polish. Blaming the M01 and M04 for leaving your finish with swirls wasn't actually the products fault, they are not intended to leave a swirl free finish, they are formulated to be aggressive cutters to remove serious paint defects and then after using them the operator is supposed to follow them with a less aggressive product.


At this point, if the Menzerna PO 115C is removing the haze and swirls left by the Meguiar's product then keep going with it, if not then you probably need a more aggressive product like the PO85RD or maybe even something more aggressive, you won't know till you do a few test spots and then chemically strip your test spot and inspect.

I'll use the meg's stuff on my sis n law's car. I'm going to the Menzerna line.

Definitely don't go over the entire truck until you dial in a system that works to just one small section.

No doubt. I did just a small area of wetsanding and learned a valuable lesson.

Once again thanx Mike for keeping me out of the deep end of the pool till I can swim on my own.

Will I ever get it right? lol

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

YES the clearcoat only.

Just wanted to check, it's a small distinction but an important one.

Then I made the mistake of NOT going to the automotive paint store and pick their brains then?

The guys behind the counters usually are not much help when it comes to learning about polishing products. When I first went to work for Meguiar's one of my jobs was to try to train counter people and most of them are just order takers, they'll sell you whatever you bring up to the counter and anything they say should be taken with a grain of salt.

The best place to get accurate information is a discussion forum like this one where the people posting information in a public way are held accountable for accuracy and if a mistake is made it's discovered and corrected.

So shame on me for expecting a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

I teach people to take their car's finish to it's maximum potential and you can do that with your cars but in this specific case you just needed to add another step or two after using some pretty aggressive products.

I'll use the meg's stuff on my sis n law's car. I'm going to the Menzerna line.

Maybe just try to use one of the cutters and then go to the Menzerna for polishing followed by waxing. (Nice brother!)

No doubt. I did just a small area of wet-sanding and learned a valuable lesson.

I'm always telling people that sanding is easy, that's putting scratches into the paint, it's getting them out that can be difficult.

Will I ever get it right? lol

You will. I did go through your last post though and add the appropriate quote tags to make it read correctly. You do this by switching to the Editor Mode when typing a message.

It's the little button that looks like this,