Menzerna Differences

CBX Carl

CBX Carl

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Could someone tell me the differences between IP and SIP. Also, where does Nano polish fit into the picture? Thanks for the replies
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Nano is a finish polish. IP is just has more cut than SIP. SIP/Nano is a great two part combo, and then adding in 85RD adds a great final step for high gloss.
 
joshs07redss said:
Nano is a finish polish. IP is just has more cut than SIP. SIP/Nano is a great two part combo, and then adding in 85RD adds a great final step for high gloss.
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Did you mean SIP is stronger than IP?
 
loudog2 said:
Did you mean SIP is stronger than IP?
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Yeah..woops...brainfart.

And yes it's safe. Some paints you don't have to be as aggressive on like Honda. Others need something more aggressive than SIP like Powergloss or M105, ex: Corvettes, Audis...

Well, after looking at the chart, it seems both have the same cut. You would think with "Super" that it would indeed have more cut, or that it finishes down better than IP (ie: less haze, more gloss). Perhaps it's a little of both. I've never used IP, so I don't know how it finishes down compared to SIP.
 
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joshs07redss said:
Yeah..woops...brainfart.

And yes it's safe. Some paints you don't have to be as aggressive on like Honda. Others need something more aggressive than SIP like Powergloss or M105, ex: Corvettes, Audis...

Well, after looking at the chart, it seems both have the same cut. You would think with "Super" that it would indeed have more cut, or that it finishes down better than IP (ie: less haze, more gloss). Perhaps it's a little of both. I've never used IP, so I don't know how it finishes down compared to SIP.
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That chart is a little confusing. SIP, IP and power finish all have the same cut on there. But it would go SIP, power finish and IP.

It also gives power finish a gloss of 5. There is no way that it finishes as good as 106FA or 85RD. Don't get me wrong, power finish finishes down great for a cut of 3.
 
loudog2 said:
That chart is a little confusing. SIP, IP and power finish all have the same cut on there. But it would go SIP, power finish and IP.

It also gives power finish a gloss of 5. There is no way that it finishes as good as 106FA or 85RD. Don't get me wrong, power finish finishes down great for a cut of 3.
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I wish they would fix that chart so that is was more true ya know? Would you say IP finishes down better than SIP and Power Finish? I'm trying to think of what would make a great one step product that would have some correctability, but finish down well enough to go straight to LSP. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doing a 3 step process, but for time sakes it seems that maybe Final Polish would be good. I guess it all depends on the type of car you're working on too.
 
Could be just me, but I found 106FA to have very good cut and it finishes down beautifully. I had some noticeable swirls on my red Prelude and using the Flex on #5 and a white LC pad, I was able to get rid of just about all the swirls and the surface was LSP ready. I suppose I could have gone back and done PO85RD with a gray/blue LC pad also, but the surface already looked great.
 
termigator said:
Could be just me, but I found 106FA to have very good cut and it finishes down beautifully. I had some noticeable swirls on my red Prelude and using the Flex on #5 and a white LC pad, I was able to get rid of just about all the swirls and the surface was LSP ready. I suppose I could have gone back and done PO85RD with a gray/blue LC pad also, but the surface already looked great.
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That makes sense because Hondas have very soft paint. Try that on an Audi or Corvette. You'll get next to no results because the clearcoat is so hard. That's what I was talking about where it depends on what type of car you're working on. I don't think a one step is possible on cars with hard CCs.
 
My Prelude is actually a repaint. It's a "top-of-the-line" Maaco job. Don't know where repaints stand in the hard/soft category, but I did use ZPC before 106fa and it did nothing to the swirls.
 
Usually repaints give you super hard CCs, as well as really thick CCs haha. You'd have to test it with a paint gauge to get a true reading.
 
joshs07redss said:
Usually repaints give you super hard CCs, as well as really thick CCs haha. You'd have to test it with a paint gauge to get a true reading.
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I haven't seen this, most repaints are usually soft or softer than the hard clear coats from the factory.
 
ASPHALT ROCKET said:
I haven't seen this, most repaints are usually soft or softer than the hard clear coats from the factory.
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I've seen it in a few write-ups with people using paint gauges and getting abnormally thick readings of the paint on panels that had been repainted. Maybe it was just the paint job though.
 
joshs07redss said:
I wish they would fix that chart so that is was more true ya know? Would you say IP finishes down better than SIP and Power Finish? I'm trying to think of what would make a great one step product that would have some correctability, but finish down well enough to go straight to LSP. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy doing a 3 step process, but for time sakes it seems that maybe Final Polish would be good. I guess it all depends on the type of car you're working on too.
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Power finish finishes better than both IP and SIP, but it also depends on the pad you use. Try 106FA for your one step. Try it with a soft green LC pad. That's if your paint isn't that bad.
 
Whether it's soft or hard, I seem to have found my dream one-step polish.

joshs07redss said:
That makes sense because Hondas have very soft paint. Try that on an Audi or Corvette. You'll get next to no results because the clearcoat is so hard. That's what I was talking about where it depends on what type of car you're working on. I don't think a one step is possible on cars with hard CCs.
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I keep hearing about Audi having really hard paint. Would that also be true for VW's, since they own Audi? That would explain my polishing futility with my bro-in-laws new white Jetta.
When he bought it, the paint was in very good condition, except for some minor swirling. I went over the whole car with SwirlX (PC + white LC pad) and the swirls are still there. I'll probably try SSR2 next, since I have two bottles of it. Just love AG's BOGO page!:righton:
 
termigator said:
Whether it's soft or hard, I seem to have found my dream one-step polish.



I keep hearing about Audi having really hard paint. Would that also be true for VW's, since they own Audi? That would explain my polishing futility with my bro-in-laws new white Jetta.
When he bought it, the paint was in very good condition, except for some minor swirling. I went over the whole car with SwirlX (PC + white LC pad) and the swirls are still there. I'll probably try SSR2 next, since I have two bottles of it. Just love AG's BOGO page!:righton:
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Yeah VWs also have hard CCs. Mercedes do as well.
 
joshs07redss said:
I've seen it in a few write-ups with people using paint gauges and getting abnormally thick readings of the paint on panels that had been repainted. Maybe it was just the paint job though.
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Just because it is thicker does not mean it is harder. There is a big difference between the two.
 
joshs07redss said:
Just stating what I've read in other write-ups.
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If they said it was harder because it was thicker I guess they are incorrect also, this is what happens with all this great info on forums from people that don't have a clue.
 
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