Microfiber pads and XMT 360

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Glenn Taylor

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I will be using xmt 360 on a 42ft coach full paint. Using xmt 360 for the fact I get 3 steps in one on such a large canvas. I have used xmt with lake county foam pads with good results but was thinking I could get even better finish with same time put into the project. I am correct or will the finish not be as good as using the Foam?
 
I'll be interested to see the replies since many claim the MF pads are the only way to go with similar AIO's like D151

Sent from my HTCONE using AG Online
 
Hi. Don't have any experience with Gel and never used XMT360 with MF pads, but I've used XMT360 and MF pads.

I do believe that, just like Meguiar's D301 Finishing Wax, XMT360 will go flawless with MF pad.

For finish, MF pads finish as good as foam if I'm dealing with harder paints. For soft paints, no doubt Foam will finish better because MF will (can) leave some marring behind.

What you must keep in mind when using AIO (sealing / wax) with MF is that you pad will get very 'caked' in the middle of the work, so keep at least 1 spare clean MF pad to continue your work.

Also, XMT360 is a pain to remove from pads, I do believe it will be hard to get out from MF pad, but that's somewhat good: If it's hard to remove from Pad, it means the product will be difficult to wash away from where you applied.

For sure I do encourage you to try a test spot with this combination.

Looking forward to hear from others,

Kind Regards.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
For Gel-Coat it should work fine. Fast defect removal, excellent shine and easy wipe-off.


For a clearcoat painted finish a person would want to do a test spot and make sure they're not seeing micro-marring.



:)
Click to expand...
I noticed that xmt 360 says on bottle no wipe off, just work it until it disappears. Have you had success using it in this way?
 
I have read the the LC green pad had provided optimum results with XMT 360. It convinced me to purchase both on my recent order.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Glenn Taylor said:
I noticed that xmt 360 says on bottle no wipe off, just work it until it disappears. Have you had success using it in this way?
Click to expand...
I'm not Mike, but I have used xmt 360 and know that the Autogeek webpage for this product says as you stated, to work it until it dissappears.

I wouldn't really call it having to wipe any of the product off, more like work it with your polisher until it's gone and then buff with a micro-fiber towel. It's a slight variance on not having to work it and I'm satisfied both with AG's description as well as how easy it is to buff by hand to a high gloss. It will mostly dissappear and all you'll do is buff a slight...very slight haze off until it's shiny.

That's my experience with xmt 360. Hope it helps you.
 
Glenn Taylor said:
I noticed that xmt 360 says on bottle no wipe off, just work it until it disappears. Have you had success using it in this way?
Click to expand...


I've seen lots of products with those type of directions and if it works for you go for it but do a test spot first.

I gauge everything I'm going to so as though I were working on black paint.

If a product, pad, tool or process will make black paint look great it will make all paint look great.

If a product, pad, tool or process won't make black paint look great then it isn't going to make any other color look great it's just you're eyes might not be able to detect the defects you're leaving behind and/or creating from the process.
​

Make sense?


Okay that said, here's the dealio...

Anytime you buff to a dry buff you have just buffed till you ran out of lubrication.

Question: What happens when you lose lubrication?

Answer: Friction increases.
​



When friction increases and you're using a dual action polisher of any type you have created the potential for micro-marring also called DA Haze or Tick Marks.

See my article here,

Wet Buffing Technique


And see this one...

Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive



The technique suggested on the bottle probably works for 99.9% of the population but I since I post in a very public way to offer advice to others and I never know what others are working on, for example all the hundreds/thousands of LURKERS that read here a day, I hold myself to a higher standard and base everything I do or recommend as though I were working on black paint.

If my advice helps a person working on black paint it will help anyone working on any paint.

Make sense???


And... always... always... do a Test Spot

How To Do a Test Spot



:)
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I've seen lots of products with those type of directions and if it works for you go for it but do a test spot first.

I gauge everything I'm going to so as though I were working on black paint.

If a product, pad, tool or process will make black paint look great it will make all paint look great.

If a product, pad, tool or process won't make black paint look great then it isn't going to make any other color look great it's just you're eyes might not be able to detect the defects you're leaving behind and/or creating from the process.
​

Make sense?


Okay that said, here's the dealio...

Anytime you buff to a dry buff you have just buffed till you ran out of lubrication.

Question: What happens when you lose lubrication?

Answer: Friction increases.
​



When friction increases and you're using a dual action polisher of any type you have created the potential for micro-marring also called DA Haze or Tick Marks.

See my article here,

Wet Buffing Technique


And see this one...

Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive



The technique suggested on the bottle probably works for 99.9% of the population but I since I post in a very public way to offer advice to others and I never know what others are working on, for example all the hundreds/thousands of LURKERS that read here a day, I hold myself to a higher standard and base everything I do or recommend as though I were working on black paint.

If my advice helps a person working on black paint it will help anyone working on any paint.

Make sense???


And... always... always... do a Test Spot

How To Do a Test Spot



:)
Click to expand...

Thanks Mike and previous poster. Makes perfect sense and I understand where your coming from. I have used a 32oz bottle but I always had to wipe or buff a haze. My application method was DA with LC white ccd pad. I was more so curious that I was missing something.
I have been doing a lot of wax applications on coach's and looking for products that would speed up the process, one reason i went with xmt 360, since I was using a machine i was getting more bang for the buck and I could apply in sunlight. If you guys have suggestions on other products that would speed things up please feel free to offer up suggestions, Im all ears.
Thanks
 
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