Microfiber Pads How To Article

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Mastercraft241

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Can someone make a how to for a microfiber pad? No matter how hard I try i simply cannot get one to work properly. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong (i.e.. priming the pad incorrectly?) but every time I use it the product starts to almost bake into the paint and I have to rub it off almost like a coating. I end up switching to a foam but and two stepping but I would really like to be able to one step microfiber with fg400 at some point. If possible, someone (Mike?, Ihaveacamaro?) make a video on how to properly use a microfiber pad?!Feed back pleaseFeed back please
 
I hated mf pads when i first started using them. I had the problems you mentioned and more. Once you get the hang of them, you'll throw your rotary in the trash. Im really starting to think that rotary polishers have almost no place in detailing anymore
. My mind was really blown when i started buzzing with 3000 on my da for heavier defects. The mf pads take out 3000 grit da sanding marks with ease. My rotary is collecting dust
 
What pads, what machine, and what compounds and technique are you using?

I've had great success with meg's MF Pads and FG400. I prime them similar to foam pads with FG400, and clean after I'm done working each section. You may want to try lessening the pressure as you are not trying to get the fibers matted down.
 
A few important things, regardless of product is priming the pad. After mf pads are properly primed you can use much less product on subsequent sections (2-3 pea size drops in most cases). Cleaning with compressed air after every section is a must. Its not optional. Otherwise, product will build and gum up and the extra heat generated by mf pads causing that "baking" on problem.

Another random issue i came accross is that you must completely dry these pads before using. Excess moisure in the foam causes most products to gum up and bake on more.

I like using d151 as an aio on a cutting pad. But, the pad must be bone dry and the product must be uses sparringly or it will set up on the paint like diamond infused concrete.


Another thing is that i dont think people give the d300 and 301 the credit they deserve. You can get mind blowing results. The finishing wax is insanely easy to remove when used properly.

I think most people just assume that these are cheap production oriented products but they are not.

I was able to attend a megs training seminar a while back and i watched rod craft get insane results with mf pads and d300/301 on a trashed hood they pulled out of a body shop dumpster.

Anothee trick i found: m100(pro speed) on a mf pad, in many cases, will pull out 3000a grit sanding marks almost lsp ready.
 
Mastercraft241 said:
Can someone make a how to for a microfiber pad? No matter how hard I try i simply cannot get one to work properly. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong (i.e.. priming the pad incorrectly?) but every time I use it the product starts to almost bake into the paint and I have to rub it off almost like a coating. I end up switching to a foam but and two stepping but I would really like to be able to one step microfiber with fg400 at some point. If possible, someone (Mike?, Ihaveacamaro?) make a video on how to properly use a microfiber pad?!Feed back pleaseFeed back please
Click to expand...
I think someone did a review here and said FG400 doesn't work well with microfiber pads.
 
Amen on D301 being s fantastic finisher. I get incredible results with that product using MF finishing pads.

It's got to be the easiest, fastest finishing polish you can find. I think the name finishing wax is a marketing gotcha because it truly is a finishing polish with some added protection.
 
af90 said:
What pads, what machine, and what compounds and technique are you using?

I've had great success with meg's MF Pads and FG400. I prime them similar to foam pads with FG400, and clean after I'm done working each section. You may want to try lessening the pressure as you are not trying to get the fibers matted down.
Click to expand...
Im using the rupres 21lhr with meguires mf pads, FG400. I would say no more than 5lbs of pressure on speed 5 as I am under the impression the rupes operates under better under less strain.

Pureshine said:
Here is a link for you. MF pads need to be cleaned often to work properly.
How to use Meguiar's DA Microfiber correction - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum
Click to expand...
Todd, I need to prime the pad that much with FG400? I usually do a big x on the MF pad but it looks NOTHING like that.
statusdetailing said:
A few important things, regardless of product is priming the pad. After mf pads are properly primed you can use much less product on subsequent sections (2-3 pea size drops in most cases). Cleaning with compressed air after every section is a must. Its not optional. Otherwise, product will build and gum up and the extra heat generated by mf pads causing that "baking" on problem.

Another random issue i came accross is that you must completely dry these pads before using. Excess moisure in the foam causes most products to gum up and bake on more.

I like using d151 as an aio on a cutting pad. But, the pad must be bone dry and the product must be uses sparringly or it will set up on the paint like diamond infused concrete.


Another thing is that i dont think people give the d300 and 301 the credit they deserve. You can get mind blowing results. The finishing wax is insanely easy to remove when used properly.

I think most people just assume that these are cheap production oriented products but they are not.

I was able to attend a megs training seminar a while back and i watched rod craft get insane results with mf pads and d300/301 on a trashed hood they pulled out of a body shop dumpster.

Anothee trick i found: m100(pro speed) on a mf pad, in many cases, will pull out 3000a grit sanding marks almost lsp ready.
Click to expand...
I'd like to get great results with FG400 before i move onto d300/301. I tried to mf pads with other compounds so I know the issue is with priming technique rather than the compound itself. Should I be smothering the pad so that it looks like that? I get the baking effect everytime I use it but from the looks of the pics on autotopia it seems as if I'm dry buffing it.
 
I hear you dude, but let me offer just a little advice...and I could be way off here. I think you have it backwards. I haven't used fg400 with MF pads but it wasn't specifically designed for them. D300 and 301 was and I didn't give them any of the credit they deserved until I saw rod craft at a megs seminar get better results from MF psds/d300/d301, after wet sanding with 2000 and 3000 than he did with a rotary. I just didn't want to be a believer but I was forced too. I think you should start with the products designed for the pads and then venture out from there.


That said I'm totally into experimentation and I've been doing a lot of it. I think the baked on problem stems from heat build up.

If you are priming correctly and cleaning often here's some things you could try based on what I've seen and experienced with these pads.

1. To cut down heat try adding a foam interface pad between the MF cutting pad.
2. Try using finishing MF pad with fg400
3. Try using a thicker open cell MF pad like the ones from uber.
 
Yes you have to prime the whole pad just like the link I gave you. I mostly use FG400 and MF pads for all my one steps and for soft paint I use D300.
If you do not properly prime the MF pads they will not work properly. I use a backing plate with wholes in it to cut down the heat on the MF pads.
 
Try m205 with a mf finishing pad on speed 3-4 with your rupes 21. You won't be disappointed. It cuts amazingly well and finishes down almost lsp ready on most paints. Make sure you prime the pad and blow out any excess with compressed air. Then 2-3 pea sized drops and after every panel or so blow clean the pad well with compressed air.
 
If one does not have a air compressor, would caned air work as well to clean the MF pad?

Something like this...

492098b.jpg
 
c8n said:
If one does not have a air compressor, would caned air work as well to clean the MF pad?

Something like this...

492098b.jpg
Click to expand...

I'm not sure how long those would last and if they would even be powerful enough. Pick up a small air compressor they are really handy to have for pumping up tires and thing of that nature.
 
statusdetailing said:
I hear you dude, but let me offer just a little advice...and I could be way off here. I think you have it backwards. I haven't used fg400 with MF pads but it wasn't specifically designed for them. D300 and 301 was and I didn't give them any of the credit they deserved until I saw rod craft at a megs seminar get better results from MF psds/d300/d301, after wet sanding with 2000 and 3000 than he did with a rotary. I just didn't want to be a believer but I was forced too. I think you should start with the products designed for the pads and then venture out from there.


That said I'm totally into experimentation and I've been doing a lot of it. I think the baked on problem stems from heat build up.

If you are priming correctly and cleaning often here's some things you could try based on what I've seen and experienced with these pads.

1. To cut down heat try adding a foam interface pad between the MF cutting pad.
2. Try using finishing MF pad with fg400
3. Try using a thicker open cell MF pad like the ones from uber.
Click to expand...
I just bought 205, 300, and 301. I'll try priming the pad like they show on autotopia and see how it goes. I would love try this with FG400 but the product is too expensive to waste.
 
c8n said:
If one does not have a air compressor, would caned air work as well to clean the MF pad?

Something like this...

492098b.jpg
Click to expand...

This won't cut the mustard. Not. Enough pressure.

An air compressor is a must have piece of equipment if your using mf pads. The brush method IMHO dose not do a very good job.

Cleaning your mf pads should be done after every section. Heat is a mf pad's worst enemy,and by cleaning after every section will remove spent product and paint buildup which both are creators of heat.

Working in smaller sections will maximize the mf pad potential and longjevity.
 
A compressor is a must unless you have enough pads to replace the pad after each panel. I find I replace after a couple panels and I have a compressor. M101 will cut great with MF. M300 is a great SMAT polish as well. I am a coating guy so I don't use D301. Optimum Polish is a simple alternative. I recommend SMAT polishes for beginners using MF. I still finish with foam.
 
I'd take a look at this video from Adam's Polishes for a visual on technique. Keep in mind that they are using their polishes in that video, which from my research seem to be less aggressive that FG400. So some variation of technique may required as suggested in previous posts (lighter pressure, fewer passes, etc). You may have to experiment a little:
http://youtu.be/oJ0x1B6Bwcs

I actually bought the Chemical Guys Black Optics microfiber pads, because they look VERY similar to the Adams MF, but come in a 5.5" size. However I haven't used them yet, as I've been getting VERY good results on my vehicle with FG400 and foam. I bought the microfiber pads before I got FG400, because my previous compound (V34) wasn't "cutting" the mustard with foam on the PC on my hard ceramic clear coat. FG400 was a game-changer for me, and works so well with foam, I'm not sure I have a need to go to microfiber, unless I use them with one of my less aggressive products. Although if I can use less pressure with MF and FG400, that would certainly peak my interest.

I did go out and get a small air compressor at Harbor Freight for when I do experiment with the MF pads. With the coupon I had, I got a 100psi compressor, 20pc starter kit with blow gun and a bunch of attachments, and a rubber AC hose all for under $50. Can't go wrong with that.
 
I've been reluctant to get MF pads due to the need for compressed air to clean them. Don't care to carry around a small compressor...
 
Got my hands on a dodge charger yesterday. Decided to try out the MF with FG400 after some experimenting it seems as if my issue was not enough product and running a little too high rpm(setting 6 on rupes lhr21). After thoroughly priming the pad, I brushed it off to fluff the pad, and applied these dots for a 2 x 2 area. I brought it to #2 setting and layed out the product and then turned it up to #4-5 and has some good cutting. I would say 80% correction.

 
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