Back in the late 90s I saw a purple Plymouth Prowler and froze in total awe and disbelief. There are few cars that turn my head, and this one definitely did. There aren't very many cars that have that effect on me. One other such car is the Porsche 356.
Fast forward to 2013: The convertible bug bit me, and I was shopping for something that would excite me a little. As fortune smiled upon me, I stumbled upon this CNET video that listed the top five worst selling cars:
Top 5 worst selling cars | CNET TV | Video Product Reviews, CNET Podcasts, Tech Shows, Live CNET Video
Thank you Brian Cooley.
This video awakened the forgotten love I had for the Prowler. The Prowler, over the years, had disappeared completely.
A few short weeks later I found a 2001 orange Plymouth Prowler with 6K original miles, and not much later, in July, I took delivery of the car.
The previous owner informed me that the car had never touched water. It had never been rained on, or washed for that matter. The owner used quick detailer to keep the car clean, and it was: CLEAN.
It appeared, however, when cleaning the car, the owner used quick detailer and a clean cloth to maintain the paintwork and to remove dust and dirt. This provided the Prowler with a clean appearance, but did very little to protect the paint from fine scratches and swirls.
As stated, the car looked immaculate from a distance, but on closer inspection, and when the sun hit it at just the right angle, you could see swirls and scratches on much of the body of the car.
So I set out to take corrective steps to remove these defects, and to protect the paint. I looked at various options around town to have the correction performed by professionals. Pricing to remove the swirls, and seal and wax the paint started at $450 and up.
The Prowler is a gorgeous looking car, like no other. I wanted to give it a showroom quality makeover. Consequently, I set out to do the job myself, despite the fact that I had never detailed a car in my life.
Having never detailed a car in my life, I did some research and learned the rudimentary steps on how to wash, prep and detail a car.
I watched a video by Mike Phillips (probably before his Autogeek days) on how to properly wash a car using the two-bucket method (blue Mini, if I recall correctly).
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOt--yizRoc]How to Wash Your Car (ShowCar style!) - YouTube[/video]
I watched the junkman give lessons on how to properly use a dual action polisher.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP-eAddv2sk]How To for Novice to Machine Polishing - Part 1 - YouTube[/video]
I watched Larry Kosilla from AmmoNYC bring a neglected Mercedes Benz to life, detail
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFQsqBHEwrE]How to use a Clay Bar: 1 Year of Neglect on Rare CLK 63 Convertible - YouTube[/video]
I read a detailed step by step 60 hour detail of a Bentley by Barry Theal
I read product reviews on Swissvax, Zymol, Wolfgang, Pinnacle, Detailers Pro, Migliore, GTechniq, 1Z Einszett, Rupes, Porter Cable, Griots Garage, Flex, AmmoNYC, Metro and many others.
Products
Wolfgang products for the paint correction step (clay, compound, polish)
• Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0
• Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0
• Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0
• Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer
• Wolfgang Clay Lubricant
• Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay
Migliore for my shampoos and final treatment products for paint, trim, wheels
• Migliore Strata Coating
• Migliore Presidenziale Wax
• Migliore Trim Protectant
• Migliore Naturale Shampoo
• Migliore Citro Shampoo
• Migliore Endurance Spray Quick Detailer
RaggTopp for the convertible top cleaner and protectant
GTechniq for glass treatment
• G4 Glass Nano Polish
• G1 ClearVision Smart Glass
Swissvax for interior leather
• Swissvax Leather Cleaner
• Swissvax Leather Milk Leather Care
1Z Enszett for interior cleaning
Tools
Rupes Bigfoot 21ES
Griot’s Garage 3” polisher
Rupes pads and Lake Country flat pads and CCS pads (assortment)
CarPro Wool Wash Mitt
Microfiber towels and mitts from Autogeek and the Rag Company
Metro Air Force Blaster
The wash:
I started with the wheels first. I used Wolfgang Uber Wheel cleaner to clean the wheels. I allowed the wheel cleaner to dwell for a little while and used a black microfiber wash mitt to agitate the product. Once finished, I rinsed off the wheels and continued from the top of the car. I keep separate towels and wash mitts for the tire and wheels.
I was careful not to get any dish soap on the convertible top so as not to strip it of factory applied protectants. I simply rinsed off the convertible top with plain water.
I used a CarPro Wool Wash Mitt with a two-bucket system to wash the rest of the car with Dawn dish soap.
I blotted the convertible top dry with a waffle weave towel. I found some lint left over on the top, so I used a lint roller to safely remove them from the top. I wiped the rest of the car dry and allowed it to sit for a little while to allow water I had not reached to dry as well.
RaggTopp makes some excellent convertible top cleaner and protectant. I purchased the kit, which comes with a 16 oz. bottle each of the cleaner and protectant, a natural horse hair convertible brush and two microfiber detailing cloths.
The clay bar:
I discovered the clay bar. I had no idea what this was at first, so I did some reading to understand what its intended purpose was.
I tried Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay and Wolfgang Clay Lubricant, Meguiar’s Smooth Surface Clay Kit and Mother’s California Gold Clay Bar System. I preferred the Wolfgang products the most. Wolfgang seemed less tacky and easier to use.
I clayed a 2’ by 2’ area at a time. Once I finished the clay step, I tested the surface and found it to be smooth and glossy to the touch. I performed the baggie test and found the paint to be ready for the next step.
Next, I washed the car again, this time with Migliore Citro shampoo using a Foamaster foam gun. Migliore Citro shampoo is very slick and will strip your paint of all previously applied products and present you with the naked paint. The slick nature of the shampoo allows your mitt to easily glide across the paint surface. It also has a pleasant citrus scent (well, duh) to it.
I toweled the car dry and allowed it to sit overnight.
Compounding:
I used an LED spotlight to determine how much corrective work was needed. The sun would have provided a better light source to identify swirls and scratches, but I kept the car indoors to keep tree sap, dust and dirt off the body.
I discovered a couple of long light scratches that were going to require a little more work than the swirls. I also discovered a pair of small paint chips (one on the fender, another on the trunk) that would require touch up later on.
I started out with a Porter Cable 7424XP polisher, but soon upgraded to a Rupes Bigfoot 21ES, primarily based on forum recommendations and reviews. I used the Rupes 5.5” backing plate with the Rupes and Lake Country buffing pads.
I used Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0 and Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 with an orange pad to remove the scratches and swirls. After priming the pad, I selected a 2’ by 2’ surface area at a time, applied product to the polishing pad and worked the area front to back and side to side while applying a little pressure. I set the speed between 5 and 6. I inspected my work several times and found often that I needed to go over some areas repeatedly. I performed six to eight passes, wiped the surface clean with a clean microfiber cloth and inspected the results. When I felt that I had removed all defects, I moved on to the next area.
I found the hood, trunk, doors and side panels to be easy to work on. The lower body panels, the nose, the side view mirrors and grill posed the most challenge. Concave areas, for the most part, were a little challenging. I used the Griot’s Garage 3” polisher for the tight areas, and used manual steps in the tightest hard-to-get-to places.
The first time I used the Porter Cable polisher, the palms of my hands tingled and itched for quite some time from the vibration. I did not experience the itch the next time I used it.
Polishing:
Once I was happy with the results from the compounding, I used a gray polishing pad to apply Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (polish). The finishing glaze applied easily, and wiped off just as easily. Although both the compound and polish are varying degrees of abrasives, they both have diminishing properties to them. This means that they degrade and break down through use.
Similar to the compounding process, I worked in a 2’ by 2’ area and applied the polish. I used position 4 on the polisher to work the polish and made four to six passes per section. I inspected the paint after finishing each section. After finishing the polishing process, the paint looked perfect - the paint could stand on its own without any sealant or wax.
The Coating:
I chose Migliore Strata coating for its ease of application. The Strata coating comes in a 1 oz. bottle.
When my order arrived, I shampooed the car one final time with Migliore Naturale shampoo using a foam gun. I rinsed the car off with a water hose, toweled and blew it dry, and allowed it to sit until completely dry.
I wiped down each panel with a 10/90% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / water mix before applying the Strata coating. Some will tell you that 91% IPA is safe for paint. If left on for too long, however, you will find that IPA will soften clear coat. While some will dilute it at 50/50, I follow the prudent experts’ recommendations and thin it down to 10% IPA. The IPA wipe-down is to ensure there is no leftover soap or polish residue.
Next, I applied the Strata coating with the provided applicator to a 2’ by 2’ area in a ½ cross hatch pattern (up and down, left and right) and allowed it to sit for a minute. I then wiped off any residue with a clean microfiber cloth. I continued this pattern until I had the entire car coated. I found the Strata coating applied and wiped off easily.
I had close to a half bottle (½ oz.) of the coating left when I finished the car even after having spilled some accidentally.
During the application process, when the light hit it just right, I could see a line where the coating was applied. The instructions call for the application to cure for seven hours. I allowed it to cure overnight.
The wax:
The following day I inspected the car one final time before proceeding with the wax application. I chose the Migliore Presidenziale wax for this car. It is Migliore’s highest-grade wax with nearly 50% carnauba. Online reviews rated this product highly, and indicated that it applied and buffed quite easily and provided an excellent depth of shine.
I chose to lay down the first layer of wax by hand using a yellow jewelling applicator pad. I rubbed the applicator pad against the wax to heat the wax and transfer wax onto the pad. I applied wax to the paint evenly and thinly in circular motions. The trick with Migliore wax is to use it sparingly. Less is more. It took an hour and a half to apply the first layer. I allowed it to cure overnight.
The next day, armed with multiple microfiber buffing cloths, I buffed the wax off and inspected the work. With microfiber cloths folded twice, thus giving you eight surfaces to work with, I buffed off the wax turning over and unfolding the microfiber cloth frequently. Again I allowed the car to sit overnight.
The next day I applied a second layer of wax using the Griot’s Garage 3” polisher. This time I completed the job a lot quicker. Once finished, I buffed the wax off one more time.
Windows:
I wiped down all the windows with Stoner’s Invisible Glass.
I chose GTechniq’s G4 Glass Nano Polish and G1 Clear Vision Smart Glass (glass coating) to coat and protect the glass. G1 is a water repellant similar to RainX. GTechniq products come highly recommended. G1 comes in a ½ oz. bottle with a G2 residue remover (also ½ oz.) and applicators.
I polished the glass with GTechniq’s G4 glass polish using the 3” polisher and a glass polishing pad.
Once I was satisfied that the glass was clean, I applied GTechniq’s G1. I applied the G1 product to each exterior glass surface and allowed it to sit for five minutes. I repeated the process twice on the front windshield and once on the windows. I allowed G1 to cure for fifteen minutes. When ready, I applied the G2 residue remover to the glass and buffed it to a shine. This product is expected to repel liquid for up to 30K miles.
Leather:
Untreated or unprotected leather will absorb liquids whereas protected leather may not. To determine which type of leather your car has, place a small drop of water on the surface and wait. If it beads and stays that way, you have protected (coated) leather.
I chose Swissvax leather care products to clean and treat the Prowler’s leathers. Swissvax does not leave an odor and performs superbly to clean and protect leather. I lathered up the seats with the leather cleaner and scrubbed them with a stiff bristle brush that came with the Swissvax Leather Care kit. Following the care instructions, I wiped down the seats in a straight line and going in one direction only. Next I applied the leather milk leather care lotion and allowed it to soak in. The leather milk leaves no residue and finishes matte.
Using a hog bristle brush I followed the same method to clean the leather steering wheel.
Interior:
I used 1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium Interior Plastic Cleaner (Eins Zett is German for 1Z) to clean and detail the interior of the Prowler. The 1Z product has a citrus smell to it when applied; however, the smell dissipates almost immediately.
I sprayed the 1Z product onto a microfiber cloth and went over all plastic surfaces of the interior, from the dash, to the door panels, pillars, console, etc. I reached into all crevices, behind the door handle, steering column and cassette insert slot.
Once done, I performed a final wipe-down to ensure the 1Z did not leave sheen behind.
Trim:
I chose Migliore Trim Protectant as it leaves a matte finish on surfaces. I applied the trim protectant to the trim around the windshield, the driver and passenger doors, as well as the front and rear bumpers.
Wheels:
I removed each wheel to ensure proper cleaning, especially the barrels that are hard to reach when mounted. I applied Migliore Bella Lustre tire glaze to the tires. I chose this tire glaze as it does not give them a wet look, but rather a black tire look, and does not sling.
I had used NEVR DULL metal polish on the wheels a few days before I actually removed them and gave them a thorough cleaning. The NEVR DULL did a remarkable job. I did, however, use Wolfgang Uber Wheel Cleaner on the wheels when I took them off for thorough outside and inside cleaning
I gave the chrome wheels a final wipe down and stood back and allowed the results of my hard work to soak in.
Exhaust tips:
I wiped the exhaust tips with NEVR DULL. I had purchased P21S Polishing Soap, but found the NEVR DULL to do excellent work on the exhaust tips. Once cleaned and polished, I wiped them down with my black microfiber towel.
And finally, the photoshopped portrait shot:
This was a project two and a half months in the making. The idea to detail my car myself started in mid-August. More than ten weeks later, after much research and a significant shopping spree, I have accomplished what I set out to do. There are many people that have contributed to the success of this little project, many, many of whom have no idea that they did, and to what extent.
Fast forward to 2013: The convertible bug bit me, and I was shopping for something that would excite me a little. As fortune smiled upon me, I stumbled upon this CNET video that listed the top five worst selling cars:
Top 5 worst selling cars | CNET TV | Video Product Reviews, CNET Podcasts, Tech Shows, Live CNET Video
Thank you Brian Cooley.
This video awakened the forgotten love I had for the Prowler. The Prowler, over the years, had disappeared completely.
A few short weeks later I found a 2001 orange Plymouth Prowler with 6K original miles, and not much later, in July, I took delivery of the car.
The previous owner informed me that the car had never touched water. It had never been rained on, or washed for that matter. The owner used quick detailer to keep the car clean, and it was: CLEAN.
It appeared, however, when cleaning the car, the owner used quick detailer and a clean cloth to maintain the paintwork and to remove dust and dirt. This provided the Prowler with a clean appearance, but did very little to protect the paint from fine scratches and swirls.
As stated, the car looked immaculate from a distance, but on closer inspection, and when the sun hit it at just the right angle, you could see swirls and scratches on much of the body of the car.
So I set out to take corrective steps to remove these defects, and to protect the paint. I looked at various options around town to have the correction performed by professionals. Pricing to remove the swirls, and seal and wax the paint started at $450 and up.
The Prowler is a gorgeous looking car, like no other. I wanted to give it a showroom quality makeover. Consequently, I set out to do the job myself, despite the fact that I had never detailed a car in my life.
Having never detailed a car in my life, I did some research and learned the rudimentary steps on how to wash, prep and detail a car.
I watched a video by Mike Phillips (probably before his Autogeek days) on how to properly wash a car using the two-bucket method (blue Mini, if I recall correctly).
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOt--yizRoc]How to Wash Your Car (ShowCar style!) - YouTube[/video]
I watched the junkman give lessons on how to properly use a dual action polisher.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KP-eAddv2sk]How To for Novice to Machine Polishing - Part 1 - YouTube[/video]
I watched Larry Kosilla from AmmoNYC bring a neglected Mercedes Benz to life, detail
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFQsqBHEwrE]How to use a Clay Bar: 1 Year of Neglect on Rare CLK 63 Convertible - YouTube[/video]
I read a detailed step by step 60 hour detail of a Bentley by Barry Theal
I read product reviews on Swissvax, Zymol, Wolfgang, Pinnacle, Detailers Pro, Migliore, GTechniq, 1Z Einszett, Rupes, Porter Cable, Griots Garage, Flex, AmmoNYC, Metro and many others.
Products
Wolfgang products for the paint correction step (clay, compound, polish)
• Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0
• Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0
• Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0
• Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer
• Wolfgang Clay Lubricant
• Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay
Migliore for my shampoos and final treatment products for paint, trim, wheels
• Migliore Strata Coating
• Migliore Presidenziale Wax
• Migliore Trim Protectant
• Migliore Naturale Shampoo
• Migliore Citro Shampoo
• Migliore Endurance Spray Quick Detailer
RaggTopp for the convertible top cleaner and protectant
GTechniq for glass treatment
• G4 Glass Nano Polish
• G1 ClearVision Smart Glass
Swissvax for interior leather
• Swissvax Leather Cleaner
• Swissvax Leather Milk Leather Care
1Z Enszett for interior cleaning
Tools
Rupes Bigfoot 21ES
Griot’s Garage 3” polisher
Rupes pads and Lake Country flat pads and CCS pads (assortment)
CarPro Wool Wash Mitt
Microfiber towels and mitts from Autogeek and the Rag Company
Metro Air Force Blaster
The wash:
I started with the wheels first. I used Wolfgang Uber Wheel cleaner to clean the wheels. I allowed the wheel cleaner to dwell for a little while and used a black microfiber wash mitt to agitate the product. Once finished, I rinsed off the wheels and continued from the top of the car. I keep separate towels and wash mitts for the tire and wheels.
I was careful not to get any dish soap on the convertible top so as not to strip it of factory applied protectants. I simply rinsed off the convertible top with plain water.
I used a CarPro Wool Wash Mitt with a two-bucket system to wash the rest of the car with Dawn dish soap.
I blotted the convertible top dry with a waffle weave towel. I found some lint left over on the top, so I used a lint roller to safely remove them from the top. I wiped the rest of the car dry and allowed it to sit for a little while to allow water I had not reached to dry as well.
RaggTopp makes some excellent convertible top cleaner and protectant. I purchased the kit, which comes with a 16 oz. bottle each of the cleaner and protectant, a natural horse hair convertible brush and two microfiber detailing cloths.
The clay bar:
I discovered the clay bar. I had no idea what this was at first, so I did some reading to understand what its intended purpose was.
I tried Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay and Wolfgang Clay Lubricant, Meguiar’s Smooth Surface Clay Kit and Mother’s California Gold Clay Bar System. I preferred the Wolfgang products the most. Wolfgang seemed less tacky and easier to use.
I clayed a 2’ by 2’ area at a time. Once I finished the clay step, I tested the surface and found it to be smooth and glossy to the touch. I performed the baggie test and found the paint to be ready for the next step.
Next, I washed the car again, this time with Migliore Citro shampoo using a Foamaster foam gun. Migliore Citro shampoo is very slick and will strip your paint of all previously applied products and present you with the naked paint. The slick nature of the shampoo allows your mitt to easily glide across the paint surface. It also has a pleasant citrus scent (well, duh) to it.
I toweled the car dry and allowed it to sit overnight.
Compounding:
I used an LED spotlight to determine how much corrective work was needed. The sun would have provided a better light source to identify swirls and scratches, but I kept the car indoors to keep tree sap, dust and dirt off the body.
I discovered a couple of long light scratches that were going to require a little more work than the swirls. I also discovered a pair of small paint chips (one on the fender, another on the trunk) that would require touch up later on.
I started out with a Porter Cable 7424XP polisher, but soon upgraded to a Rupes Bigfoot 21ES, primarily based on forum recommendations and reviews. I used the Rupes 5.5” backing plate with the Rupes and Lake Country buffing pads.
I used Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0 and Wolfgang Swirl Remover 3.0 with an orange pad to remove the scratches and swirls. After priming the pad, I selected a 2’ by 2’ surface area at a time, applied product to the polishing pad and worked the area front to back and side to side while applying a little pressure. I set the speed between 5 and 6. I inspected my work several times and found often that I needed to go over some areas repeatedly. I performed six to eight passes, wiped the surface clean with a clean microfiber cloth and inspected the results. When I felt that I had removed all defects, I moved on to the next area.
I found the hood, trunk, doors and side panels to be easy to work on. The lower body panels, the nose, the side view mirrors and grill posed the most challenge. Concave areas, for the most part, were a little challenging. I used the Griot’s Garage 3” polisher for the tight areas, and used manual steps in the tightest hard-to-get-to places.
The first time I used the Porter Cable polisher, the palms of my hands tingled and itched for quite some time from the vibration. I did not experience the itch the next time I used it.
Polishing:
Once I was happy with the results from the compounding, I used a gray polishing pad to apply Wolfgang Finishing Glaze (polish). The finishing glaze applied easily, and wiped off just as easily. Although both the compound and polish are varying degrees of abrasives, they both have diminishing properties to them. This means that they degrade and break down through use.
Similar to the compounding process, I worked in a 2’ by 2’ area and applied the polish. I used position 4 on the polisher to work the polish and made four to six passes per section. I inspected the paint after finishing each section. After finishing the polishing process, the paint looked perfect - the paint could stand on its own without any sealant or wax.
The Coating:
I chose Migliore Strata coating for its ease of application. The Strata coating comes in a 1 oz. bottle.
When my order arrived, I shampooed the car one final time with Migliore Naturale shampoo using a foam gun. I rinsed the car off with a water hose, toweled and blew it dry, and allowed it to sit until completely dry.
I wiped down each panel with a 10/90% Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) / water mix before applying the Strata coating. Some will tell you that 91% IPA is safe for paint. If left on for too long, however, you will find that IPA will soften clear coat. While some will dilute it at 50/50, I follow the prudent experts’ recommendations and thin it down to 10% IPA. The IPA wipe-down is to ensure there is no leftover soap or polish residue.
Next, I applied the Strata coating with the provided applicator to a 2’ by 2’ area in a ½ cross hatch pattern (up and down, left and right) and allowed it to sit for a minute. I then wiped off any residue with a clean microfiber cloth. I continued this pattern until I had the entire car coated. I found the Strata coating applied and wiped off easily.
I had close to a half bottle (½ oz.) of the coating left when I finished the car even after having spilled some accidentally.
During the application process, when the light hit it just right, I could see a line where the coating was applied. The instructions call for the application to cure for seven hours. I allowed it to cure overnight.
The wax:
The following day I inspected the car one final time before proceeding with the wax application. I chose the Migliore Presidenziale wax for this car. It is Migliore’s highest-grade wax with nearly 50% carnauba. Online reviews rated this product highly, and indicated that it applied and buffed quite easily and provided an excellent depth of shine.
I chose to lay down the first layer of wax by hand using a yellow jewelling applicator pad. I rubbed the applicator pad against the wax to heat the wax and transfer wax onto the pad. I applied wax to the paint evenly and thinly in circular motions. The trick with Migliore wax is to use it sparingly. Less is more. It took an hour and a half to apply the first layer. I allowed it to cure overnight.
The next day, armed with multiple microfiber buffing cloths, I buffed the wax off and inspected the work. With microfiber cloths folded twice, thus giving you eight surfaces to work with, I buffed off the wax turning over and unfolding the microfiber cloth frequently. Again I allowed the car to sit overnight.
The next day I applied a second layer of wax using the Griot’s Garage 3” polisher. This time I completed the job a lot quicker. Once finished, I buffed the wax off one more time.
Windows:
I wiped down all the windows with Stoner’s Invisible Glass.
I chose GTechniq’s G4 Glass Nano Polish and G1 Clear Vision Smart Glass (glass coating) to coat and protect the glass. G1 is a water repellant similar to RainX. GTechniq products come highly recommended. G1 comes in a ½ oz. bottle with a G2 residue remover (also ½ oz.) and applicators.
I polished the glass with GTechniq’s G4 glass polish using the 3” polisher and a glass polishing pad.
Once I was satisfied that the glass was clean, I applied GTechniq’s G1. I applied the G1 product to each exterior glass surface and allowed it to sit for five minutes. I repeated the process twice on the front windshield and once on the windows. I allowed G1 to cure for fifteen minutes. When ready, I applied the G2 residue remover to the glass and buffed it to a shine. This product is expected to repel liquid for up to 30K miles.
Leather:
Untreated or unprotected leather will absorb liquids whereas protected leather may not. To determine which type of leather your car has, place a small drop of water on the surface and wait. If it beads and stays that way, you have protected (coated) leather.
I chose Swissvax leather care products to clean and treat the Prowler’s leathers. Swissvax does not leave an odor and performs superbly to clean and protect leather. I lathered up the seats with the leather cleaner and scrubbed them with a stiff bristle brush that came with the Swissvax Leather Care kit. Following the care instructions, I wiped down the seats in a straight line and going in one direction only. Next I applied the leather milk leather care lotion and allowed it to soak in. The leather milk leaves no residue and finishes matte.
Using a hog bristle brush I followed the same method to clean the leather steering wheel.
Interior:
I used 1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium Interior Plastic Cleaner (Eins Zett is German for 1Z) to clean and detail the interior of the Prowler. The 1Z product has a citrus smell to it when applied; however, the smell dissipates almost immediately.
I sprayed the 1Z product onto a microfiber cloth and went over all plastic surfaces of the interior, from the dash, to the door panels, pillars, console, etc. I reached into all crevices, behind the door handle, steering column and cassette insert slot.
Once done, I performed a final wipe-down to ensure the 1Z did not leave sheen behind.
Trim:
I chose Migliore Trim Protectant as it leaves a matte finish on surfaces. I applied the trim protectant to the trim around the windshield, the driver and passenger doors, as well as the front and rear bumpers.
Wheels:
I removed each wheel to ensure proper cleaning, especially the barrels that are hard to reach when mounted. I applied Migliore Bella Lustre tire glaze to the tires. I chose this tire glaze as it does not give them a wet look, but rather a black tire look, and does not sling.
I had used NEVR DULL metal polish on the wheels a few days before I actually removed them and gave them a thorough cleaning. The NEVR DULL did a remarkable job. I did, however, use Wolfgang Uber Wheel Cleaner on the wheels when I took them off for thorough outside and inside cleaning
I gave the chrome wheels a final wipe down and stood back and allowed the results of my hard work to soak in.
Exhaust tips:
I wiped the exhaust tips with NEVR DULL. I had purchased P21S Polishing Soap, but found the NEVR DULL to do excellent work on the exhaust tips. Once cleaned and polished, I wiped them down with my black microfiber towel.
And finally, the photoshopped portrait shot:
This was a project two and a half months in the making. The idea to detail my car myself started in mid-August. More than ten weeks later, after much research and a significant shopping spree, I have accomplished what I set out to do. There are many people that have contributed to the success of this little project, many, many of whom have no idea that they did, and to what extent.
