Mike phillips..school me on painting

chemguy626

chemguy626

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This weekend I will be painting my aunts 2001 volvo s40. The car has clear coat failure. I will be painting it a single stage metallic.
My question is about color sanding after I paint it. How long after I paint it should I wait(this will be painted in a garage) to color sand and polish it? What about sealing it afterwards? Is there any other pointers you can give me? I am excellent at the prep and im an ok painter(i took painting and refinishing in college).

Thanks for your time :)

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Check your data sheets there'll be something on there about how long it will take till you can sand


Sent from space through a satellite
 
If you're using lets say DuPont Centari enamel I'd advise using their DuPont 793S Acrylic Enamel Hardener.. This is a chemical hardener designed as a catalyst to chemically harden and cure the paint in 24 hours.

1 PINT 793S ACRYLIC ENAMEL HARDENER CENTARI DUPONT

http://www2.dupont.com/Coating_Solutions/en_US/assets/downloads/tds/TDS_Centari_Topcoat_A_E.pdf

DuPont Centari Enamel Application

  • Apply three full wet coats. No additional flash time is required. If a mist-coat is required for metallic colors, mist coat while coating is still wet.
  • In case of fish eyes, add up to 1 oz. of DuPont™ 259S™ Additive per RTS gallon.
  • Add up to 15% DuPont™ Centari® Topcoat mixing enamel for tinting purposes.
  • If clear-coating, allow topcoat to cure overnight before applying ChromaClear® 7900S™ Multi-Use Urethane or ChromaClear® 7779S™ Multi-Mix™ Clear coats. Follow clear coat recommendations for activation and application.
  • DuPont™ Centari® Topcoat can be clear-coated up to 48 hours after the final coat without the need to sand.

  • 77°F (25°C) & 50% Rh at recommended film thickness
  • With DuPont™ 793S™
    Tack Free 1-2 hrs
    Tape Free 4 hrs
Wet sand after 48 hours..
 
I assume you know to get as much dust out of there as you can and wet the floor to keep dust down...
 
Skimmer0220 said:
Check your data sheets there'll be something on there about how long it will take till you can sand.
Click to expand...

Good advice.

The paint shop where you buy your paint should also be able to give you some directions for your specific geographical location too if there are any extremes in your weather/temperatures.



BobbyG said:
Wet sand after 48 hours..
Click to expand...


Thanks Bobby for looking that up.


A good rule of thumb for most paint systems in most geographical locations is to wait for about 3 days but get on it before a week or two passes.

I have a 1965 Comet Convertible coming up to do a full wetsand cut and buff, I'll document as much of it as I can for an article.


:)
 
chemguy626 said:
what about polishing and sealing after that?
Click to expand...


Sanding, compounding and polishing are one process.

I would recommend using the best sanding papers you can obtain and finish out at least 2000 grit. Higher if you can get it. My personal preference is to machine dampsand but you can hand sand too..

Then have a high quality wool cutting pad and a rotary buffer and a good compound ready to cut out your sanding marks. Machine polish with foam pads and then stop until around 30 days pass.

Then seal the paint with a car wax, synthetic paint sealant or paint coating.


Pictures?


:Picture:
 
DaveT435 said:
I assume you know to get as much dust out of there as you can and wet the floor to keep dust down...
Click to expand...


I've used plastic drop cloths to build a paint booth inside my garage and then use some large box fans to extract air.


Not a perfect approach but a lot of guys have done it like this and it does help to create a cleaner environment plus also keeps overspray off everything in your garage. If you don't want overspray dust on something... cover it.


:D
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I've used plastic drop cloths to build a paint booth inside my garage and then use some large box fans to extract air.


Not a perfect approach but a lot of guys have done it like this and it does help to create a cleaner environment plus also keeps overspray off everything in your garage. If you don't want overspray dust on something... cover it.


:D
Click to expand...


:xyxthumbs: Anything to keep dust out of the paint....and overspray is never any fun. Great idea!!
 
the guy from the paint store said you cant wetsand single stage metallic beacause you will disturb the metallic. Is this true? Any pointer on this? I just dont want ANY orange peel.

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True: you can't fracture the metallic. you can lightly scuff the dust nubs only, or you'll have to re-coat. What paint system?

Unless your paint has already been mixed, I'd go with an economical base/clear system like BASF's Limco or PPG's Omni, if your wanting to wet sand flat then buff.
 
chemguy626 said:
the guy from the paint store said you cant wetsand single stage metallic beacause you will disturb the metallic. Is this true? Any pointer on this? I just dont want ANY orange peel.

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Click to expand...


That doesn't sound right. Maybe I missed this...but exactly what kind of paint are you spraying?
 
chemguy626 said:
the guy from the paint store said you cant wetsand single stage metallic because you will disturb the metallic. Is this true? Any pointer on this? I just dont want ANY orange peel.

Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...


He's correct. The flake is in the resin you'll be sanding, sand the resin and you sand on the flake.

You also have to be very careful when you machine compound and polish metallic flake or you can instill what are called Tiger Stripes.

Tiger Stripes can be two things,

1. Spray patterns in the paint caused by the painter and how they hold the spray gun

2. Buffing patterns in the paint caused by the person doing the buffing when they abrade too much paint off changing the appearance of the flake in the paint.



When we buffed out this car we had to be careful not to over-buff the paint and change the appearance by removing too much paint in an inconsistent manner.


Pictures & Videos: 2003 Honda Civic Extreme Makeover - Duragloss

Before
CoralsHonda006.jpg



CoralsHonda024.jpg


CoralsHonda025.jpg



CoralsHonda050.jpg



:)
 
Thanks for all of your advise mike...i already bought the paint unfortunately...a ppg single stage mett. Otherwise I would do base/clear. Ill have pics up,soon.

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Couldnt I also use a hardener with a higher flash temp to give the paint more time to settle and reduce orange peel effect?

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What system are you using?

You need to stay within the reducer/catalyst temp ranges. This time of year it's critical because of temp swings (my area is 80 today next week 60's). You may have to return the reducer or catalyst for the correct temp range for the day you spray. You want the paint to flow correctly before it cooks up. I would use the hardener (if that system offers one) as it will be a more durable/glossy finish. That said... painters can tweak the fast/slow, reducers/catalyst mix because they usually have both on the shelf and spraying daily, it's easy to dial in just how fast or slow you want the flow.

Most orange peel is from too low of spraying pressure. Make sure you spray at the recommended pressure and have a gauge and regulator on the gun itself and not rely on a gauge somewhere else down the line like on the dryer or the compressor.
 
RedXray said:
What system are you using?

You need to stay within the reducer/catalyst temp ranges. This time of year it's critical because of temp swings (my area is 80 today next week 60's). You may have to return the reducer or catalyst for the correct temp range for the day you spray. You want the paint to flow correctly before it cooks up. I would use the hardener (if that system offers one) as it will be a more durable/glossy finish. That said... painters can tweak the fast/slow, reducers/catalyst mix because they usually have both on the shelf and spraying daily, it's easy to dial in just how fast or slow you want the flow.

Most orange peel is from too low of spraying pressure. Make sure you spray at the recommended pressure and have a gauge and regulator on the gun itself and not rely on a gauge somewhere else down the line like on the dryer or the compressor.
Click to expand...

I am usind a hardener/activator

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Go to PPGs website and hey have all there data sheets there do you can download them


Sent from space through a satellite
 
Tiger Stripes

This is not a slam on my buddy Rick at all because I admire people that are do-it-yourselfers...

Plus, painting is a learned art. That said, these are Tiger Stripes from how he held the spray gun when spraying a metallic paint job. The lines are under the clear so there's nothing that can be done to remove them except to repaint.

Tiger Stripes
32FordHighboy047.jpg


32FordHighboy051.jpg



This street rod came to in need a little help and left looking much, much better...

Pictures + Video of 1932 Ford Highboy Extreme Makeover

32FordHighboy050.jpg




:)
 
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